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Old 07-07-2021, 09:58 AM   #1
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1975 27' Overlander
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 6
Ola based in Reno with a RENO :)

I just picked up a 1975 27 foot Overlander that needs extensive work. It has been fun reading all of the great information so far.

My biggest challenge is going to be axels as the frame has been modified and I dont have enough room between the upper shock mounts and the frame to remove the nut . The shock mounts are welded studs so I am thinking I have to grind off the welds and replace with bolts so I can get the nut between the bolt end and the frame

I also need to work on the opening mechanism for lifting the rear "door" if any one has any suggestions for a easier way to lift the door
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Old 07-07-2021, 10:41 AM   #2
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1972 25' Tradewind
1976 31' Excella 500
1974 31' Excella 500
1975 24' Argosy 24
Denver , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2015
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Welcome! You should definitely post a pic of the frame issue you are talking about so people can make suggestions. I have seen quite a few threads where people think something isn't possible, and they just didn't know the "secret."

With the hatch... what about mounting some kind of conduit or channel down the back on either side of the window that would contain cables mounted to a winch on the roof? Otherwise you'll need some kind of lift in the opening that will impede some of that wonderfully massive opening. Hydraulic and/or electric struts would be cool, but I assume cost prohibitive for something that large. It would be interesting to know how much force is needed to open the hatch (what does the hatch weigh?) You could also add counterweights on another set of cables and pulleys to "make the hatch lighter" like the counterweights in the wall/frame of old style house windows.

Either way, that's going to awesome once you get it working!

I can't really tell from the pic, but obviously you will also need to address the possibility of the structure back there shifting and deforming while traveling, and also getting a good seal when it's closed (I can't tell if the previous owner added additional ribs or other support structures).
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Old 07-07-2021, 03:52 PM   #3
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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Oh, so many questions about that trailer of yours....

Anyway, post a pic of the upper shock bolt you are talking about. Even the factory set-up is crazy difficult to get a shock on and off without removing the axle. You might look at the outofdoorsmart.com site. They have some "how to" videos there, and they have one that shows the tricks to installing a new shock without removing the axle.

Also, there is at least one video on youtube.com showing an Airstream that has been modified to be a car hauler where the rear end opens up. As I recall, it was more of a side-hinge, rather than a top-hinge, but it might give you some inspiration.

good luck!
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Old 07-07-2021, 04:15 PM   #4
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1975 27' Overlander
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidjedi View Post
Welcome! You should definitely post a pic of the frame issue you are talking about so people can make suggestions. I have seen quite a few threads where people think something isn't possible, and they just didn't know the "secret."

With the hatch... what about mounting some kind of conduit or channel down the back on either side of the window that would contain cables mounted to a winch on the roof? Otherwise you'll need some kind of lift in the opening that will impede some of that wonderfully massive opening. Hydraulic and/or electric struts would be cool, but I assume cost prohibitive for something that large. It would be interesting to know how much force is needed to open the hatch (what does the hatch weigh?) You could also add counterweights on another set of cables and pulleys to "make the hatch lighter" like the counterweights in the wall/frame of old style house windows.

Either way, that's going to awesome once you get it working!

I can't really tell from the pic, but obviously you will also need to address the possibility of the structure back there shifting and deforming while traveling, and also getting a good seal when it's closed (I can't tell if the previous owner added additional ribs or other support structures).
I will post some pics when I get back over to the trailer of the shock mounts.

The "door" weighs around 250 - 300 lbs (guessing) the previous owner had a electric motor mounted on the roof but it still needed two people to help lift it up. I am looking at some kind of screw jack system or hydraulics. The length of the "throw" is pretty long

I will post another thread with more detailed pics in the correct sub forum
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Old 07-07-2021, 04:18 PM   #5
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1975 27' Overlander
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
Oh, so many questions about that trailer of yours....

Anyway, post a pic of the upper shock bolt you are talking about. Even the factory set-up is crazy difficult to get a shock on and off without removing the axle. You might look at the outofdoorsmart.com site. They have some "how to" videos there, and they have one that shows the tricks to installing a new shock without removing the axle.

Also, there is at least one video on youtube.com showing an Airstream that has been modified to be a car hauler where the rear end opens up. As I recall, it was more of a side-hinge, rather than a top-hinge, but it might give you some inspiration.

good luck!
Thank you

I watched a couple of videos where the top shock mount was a bolt and not the welded studs. I am not sure when that changed or if one of the previous owners changed it

The rear has a dynometer for ATV's adn Motorcycles mounted in the back, which makes up all the weight
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:42 PM   #6
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
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Welcome from Colorado: I too have a 75 Overlander that I did extensive work to, including new axles. I suspect your trailer is highly modified and has a completely different frame from the Airstream frame if you are hauling a horsepower measuring dyno around in your "garage".

Airstream shocks are hard to get on and off. I'll take a guess. What I might suggest is you remove the shock from the accessible lower bracket, and then lower the axle with the shock still attached to the upper bracket. That is what I do. The axles are heavy and awkward, but usually held up by two 5/8" bolts through the frame rails on each side. I have a floor jack under the balance point of each axle, lift enough to remove any bind on the bolts and then remove them, and carefully lower the axle to the pavement. Now the shock is easy to remove.

Photos of your situation would help us.

David
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Old 07-13-2021, 09:25 AM   #7
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1975 27' Overlander
Reno , Nevada
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I took a bunch of pictures on Saturday. Will get them uploaded and linked
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