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Old 07-24-2013, 01:56 PM   #41
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1964 26' Overlander
Paducah , Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
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We welded these pieces onto the frame to use as lift points with our chain hoist. Worked pretty good. Only negative was we had to cut them off and grind everything smooth and then repaint the areas.
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:02 PM   #42
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1964 26' Overlander
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There she is all Painted with POR15 and new axles installed. Had to throw one of the shell in there to remind me what all this hard work is for! Ha!
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:20 PM   #43
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Oxford, , Mississippi
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Looks fantastic. Great job.
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:25 PM   #44
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1964 26' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
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wow, very nice. I have the same trailer - 64 overlander. Mine was in really good shape, so I didn't have to do the frame, though it is something I kind of wish I would have had to do. I had very little rust underneath, and only one little spot of rot near the front door which I'll fix with a penetrating epoxy, but I would feel so much better if mine was covered in por15 like yours.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:41 PM   #45
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1964 26' Overlander
Paducah , Kentucky
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Put the new floor down this weekend. I decided to use 3/4" Advantech subflooring. Been in a holding pattern lookin for a shop to work out of. A buddy is letting me use his shop so im planning on getting busy this winter. I've been missing working on it.
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Old 12-12-2014, 03:22 PM   #46
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1964 26' Overlander
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After test fitting my new subfloor I pulled it off and put one more coat of POR15 on the chassis. There were a few spots that had light surface rust on it. I should have put two coats on the first time! Now its on thick and shiny!

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I also had to do a little repair work on the wheel wells. There were spots that were rusted out so i cut that off and made new patches with sheet metal and riveted the patches on. I had enough POR15 left that I went ahead and covered the inside of the wheel wells as well.

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Today l cut out pieces of sheet metal and bent them with a metal brake to make my new J channels. I used painted .040 3003 aluminum sheet metal. I had never done any sheet metal work at all. It wasnt difficult at all. I also went ahead and bought the metal for my underbelly fabrication. I bought 4x10 sheets of .032 3003 aluminum.

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As soon as I get this J channel attached I'll be ready to put the shell back on. Wish me luck!
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:09 PM   #47
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1991 34' Excella
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That's looking really good!
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:42 PM   #48
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1964 26' Overlander
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Fnished installing all my J channel onto the floor. Was going to go ahead and reattach the shell but decided to go ahead and start fabbing and installing the underbelly. Me and a buddy got some of it installed today.

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Old 12-22-2014, 05:42 PM   #49
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1991 34' Excella
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Just passing along a tip...

Try to get the belly to wrap up and over the channel and keep a nice smooth arc around the perimeter of the floor. If it makes a notchy arc the shell will follow the shape and look goofy.

It's much easer to shape it now than after the shell has landed.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:57 PM   #50
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1964 26' Overlander
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Thanks HiHo! My buddy builds race car bodies and he has warned me about things such as this. Thank God he's a perfectionist like me. Wait, that may not be a good thing, lol! Any advice anyone has is definitely welcomed!
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:41 PM   #51
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Conifer , Colorado
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I had great difficulty shaping the rear "banana wraps" on my 66 Trade Wind. I used the factory wraps as patterns. The first mistake I made was figuring the piece will follow the frame rail at a right angle. The factory piece had a taper to it. This taper was important.

As others have said, the Airstream employees are very good at sheet metal work!

David
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:14 PM   #52
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1964 26' Overlander
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Hey David, thanks for sayin hey. On the rear corners we bent a piece of sheet metal into a 90 and then took a crimping tool and made an arc shape and fastened it with rivets to the main frame and that way we had a ledge for the metal to go up against and be riveted to. It also made it water and mouse proof. I thought it turned out pretty good. We're still trying to figure out what we're gonna do with the front corner pieces. If anybody has suggestions and pics I'm all ears and eyes, lol.
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Old 12-23-2014, 04:40 PM   #53
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Does your 64 have compound curve banana wraps on the front like late models or is it flat stock like the rear? A buddy of mine gave up on the old dented front banana's and bought new plastic ones. He's painting everything from the floor level and down a dark gray. It really looks good.
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy https://www.airforums.com/forums/f20...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly https://www.airforums.com/forums/f10...ome-71609.html
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Old 12-23-2014, 07:56 PM   #54
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1986 34' Limited
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I should think the front banana wraps would be very difficult to make without an English wheel and considerable practice. My 86 has plastic banana wraps, both of which have been replaced due to smacking "road gators". The 86 is the new body style and likely a different shape than my 66.

I took one of my banana wraps down to work out some dents. An Airstream salvage yard may have a half way decent one for sale.

David
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:13 PM   #55
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1964 26' Overlander
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Mine had the old style banana wraps but they were in terrible shape. I looked into the plastic wraps but they were crazy high and they didnt have them for 64's from what I saw. I imagine we will just do what we can to seal it up good and make it look as best we can.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:33 PM   #56
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1964 26' Overlander
Paducah , Kentucky
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Finished up the third corner on the belly. Ended up cutting the frontmost outrigger so we could fold the metal since I no longer have the banana wraps. I think it looks really good. What do y'all think?


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Old 01-13-2015, 04:51 AM   #57
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Yes, they do look quite good. It's not easy to get the metal to form this compound curve. You must feel like the Airstream technicians back in the early sixties wondering how they can make hundreds of these panels. I'll bet they had a "buck" to form the front banana wraps on my 66 Trade Wind. Old English sports cars had aluminum hoods, trunks, and door skins; but not more complex fenders. However, antique aircraft have very complex aluminum parts. How did they do it?

Molded plastic is so much easier.

David
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Old 01-23-2015, 02:53 PM   #58
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1964 26' Overlander
Paducah , Kentucky
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Well, all the exterior underbelly work is finished, reflectix put in, insulation installed, and riveted to the chassis. I went ahead and put the reflectix on the rest of the exposed subfloor so I guess its that time...time to reunite the shell! Gonna get some guys together Monday hopefully and manhandle the shell back on the chassis. Wish us luck!


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Old 01-23-2015, 06:22 PM   #59
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Good Luck from Minnesota. Take your time with it. Be ready to sand off some wood on the edges of your subfloor to best match the exterior skin. Some folks have trouble with the clearance for the door threshold. I guess the subfloor has to be notched to fit the threshold. I think that's the way I understood it.

I had to belt sand wood material of the subfloor edges to get a good fit around the back of my trailer. But It was not a shell off. I just replaced the bath subfloor with the shell on. Not near the scope of work you're doing.

David
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:08 PM   #60
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1964 26' Overlander
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Hey guys, we did it! Got the shell back on today!!! I'm so pumped if you can't tell, lol. Believe it or not most all of the rivet holes lined up perfectly. I truly can't believe it. There were seven of us that picked the shell up and walked it from the back yard to the driveway where the chassis was. We just walked up the back of the camper and got it on jack stands and pushed all the edges to the outside of the underbelly. Here's some pics of it together! The last pic is all the guys enjoying free beer for their trouble! LOL!

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