New owner of a '78 Argosy Minuet 6.7

[ArgosyMinuet]

Hello Everyone,
Last week I noticed around the block an Argosy Minuet ('78, 22') for sale.
The trailer had been in the one owner family (grandfather > father > son) and the son upgraded to a bigger camper and put it up for sale. Everything is original except for the new air conditoner, new awning, new laminate wood floor, new tires, new values, & new paint job. The seller mentioned that the water heater leaks so he disconnected it. He did mention that I should have it replaced for $300+ (part only) for the water heater.

The first night I brought the camper home I slept in it with my two older boys (age 9 & 10) and we had a blast! I'm so excited about future adventures with this trailer even if the majority of the time is out in my front or back yard (1.5 acres w/woods).

I have some questions regarding the trailer:
1. The manual mentions that the hitch on the truck should be 19.5 inches at the top of the ball. Is this before the trailer is attached or after because I would imagine that it will go down a couple of inches with the trailer attached?
2. The electric hum when it is plugged in? Does every Argosy owner have this?
3. I'm looking for a new license plate holder/etc. The one I have is rusted where the plate is mounted and above. Does anyone know where to get one?
4. Musty smell in trailer? Previous owner used trailer and just took it to Florida from Wisconsin last year...is there any cleaning recommendation for the interior to possible eliminate older odor?

The previous owner supplied me with orginal manual & all repair paperwork. I realized this was a gem-diamond in the ruff & bought it even though some friends/family thought I was nuts to purchase something 32 years old.

I look forward to being a member of the air-stream forums & gaining insight from everyone. I will post pictures as soon as I learn how to down load the pics unto the computer.

Best Regards,
Bill

[jjustice]

Bill,

Welcome to the AS Forum and to the world of "the painted AS". I think you may a very good investment. My wife and I own a '78, 27ft and we rehabbed it last winter, and actually we just finished it. Last thing was the paint job. We are on our way to the International AS Rally in Gillette, Wy. We had the original gold colored rug that we took out. We got rid of all the soft covering items, gauchos, curtains, rug, and then washed it down thoroughly. We put down linoleum wood look and had a very good and knowledgeable friend from the Land Yaught Harbor in Lacey, WA help us with the appliances - all work right now. smile
Our interior was excellent but I did have a very musty smell coming from the wheel wells. When I took the rug out the plywood flooring was then exposed. Many stains but no rot. I used a product called BINS Coating that is a sealant and deodorizes at the same time. May I suggest that every exposed surface under the cupboards, the wheel wells, etc. you coat with the BINS. We also go two of those products that take odor out of an area. They are not deodorizers that cover the smell but actually eliminated the smell (soaks it up). Anyway, if you have an AS club in the area or post like you have that you would like to find someone that could go over the Argosy/AS with you and give you pointers that would be a great help to you. Anyway, enjoy the experience especially with your kids.
Now, what color is your Argosy?
post a pic if you can. You can see ours by going to the Registry and finding jjustice.

[overlander64]

Greetings Bill!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Argosy ownership!

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

I have some questions regarding the trailer:
1. The manual mentions that the hitch on the truck should be 19.5 inches at the top of the ball. Is this before the trailer is attached or after because I would imagine that it will go down a couple of inches with the trailer attached?

The measurement refers to the height of the top of the hitch ball prior to attaching the trailer. You may find that it needs to be lower due to sag or set in the axles. To determine the best hitch height for your coach, it is generally recommended that you level the coach when parked on a level street or driveway and then measure from the street level to the top of the coupler - - this gives you a good starting point for your hitch height. You can always check the website for the manufacturer of your hitch to get the specific hitch adjustment instructions for your hitch.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

2. The electric hum when it is plugged in? Does every Argosy owner have this?

What you are describing is typical for Airstream products of the 1970s. The noise that you are hearing is the Univolt that converts 120-Volt AC to 12-Volt DC; and charges the coach batteries when connected to shore power. These Univolts are notorious for overcharging the coach batteries and boiling the electrolyte. If you don't plan on replacing the Univolt, my suggestion would be to purchase the least expensive coach battery that you find as the converter will shorten the life of any battery selected - - my Minuet had its original Univolt for the first three seasons that I owned it and I just purchased the least expensive Maring/RV battery from WalMart at the beginning of each season.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

3. I'm looking for a new license plate holder/etc. The one I have is rusted where the plate is mounted and above. Does anyone know where to get one?

You don't want to put off replacing the lincense plate holder. Mine disintegrated while on the road, and my license plate was lost somewhere in Southern Wisconsin or Northern Illinois - - an expensive lesson as the replacement license plate was more expensive than a new holder. I had to do some searching when I wanted to replace the rusty chrome plated license plate brackets on my Airstream and Argosy (both less than 5 years old and purchased from Airstream Factory Store) with stainless steel units of similar design. I finally found a very similar all stainless unti from Sullivan's Garage. Mine was a bit smaller than the original so I needed a plate for beneath the new bracket. I found a stainless steel plate at the Americas's Truck Wash and Chrome Shop that worked perfectly - - 14" plate as used shown below:

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

4. Musty smell in trailer? Previous owner used trailer and just took it to Florida from Wisconsin last year...is there any cleaning recommendation for the interior to possible eliminate older odor?

A large part of the odor is likely coming from the softgoods in the coach - - foam rubber and upholstery/drapery products. The cabinetry is vinyl-clad aluminum so it doesn't support extensive growth of mold or mildew as a general rule. Airing out the coach over a period of several days when the weather is expected to be dry can sometimes help to reduce or eliminate the "old" odor. If the coach still has its original carpeting, it can hold many unpleasant odors and the best solution is usually removal with replacement using floor covering of your choice. Cleaning all hard surfaces with a deodorizing cleaner can be very helpful as well. If you do find an mold or mildew a bleach and water solution sprayed onto the offending growth will likely kill most if not all of it - - - be cautious around upholtery/draperies that you are intending to preserve as it will definitely stain fabrics. Another possible solution if the lounge cushions are a source of unpleasant odor is to take them out into the sun and allow them to air for a day or two (if you have dew overnight, be sure to take the cushions in at dusk). Another possibility for eliminating odors is to utilize an ozone generator - - many rental stores offer these applicances and if permitted to work for a day or two, they can do wonders with odor elimination.

Good luck with your Minuet!

Kevin

P.S.: Your coach may be among the small number of 6.7 Minuets produced with composite aluminum floors. The composite aluminum floors were much more common in the 6.0 Metre coaches, but some of the 6.7 Metre coaches were equipped with these floors as well.

[ArgosyMinuet]

Thanks jjustice & Kevin for your kind replys. Your words of wisdom are greatly appreciated. The color of my Argosy is an off-white /cream color. The previous owner metioned that the floors were aluminum because I inquired about a sag in one area and movement of the floors when you walk in the camper. A couple other questions:
1. I disconnected the battery while I'm hooked up to electricity from my home (I've been sleeping in it 2-3 nights a week with my boys so I kept the electric on to keep the refrigerator working). Is that OK to not have the battery hooked up? I did notice that the original AM/FM/8-track has a hum and doesn't work right with the battery on hooked?
2. The camper has the original refrigerator and is in excellent conditon. Should I always have the electric on while using it at my home or can I not run the refrigerator while the electricity in on? How do I do this?...have it set on gas mode but shut off the gas? Is that an option?
3. The propane tanks are filled and I'm currently not using it but I hear a pinging noise coming from one of the propane tanks thru out the day/night? What is up with this?

Again, thank you for your reply. I am so exciting with this camper. There are so many possibilities to utilize the Argosy by myself or with my family. Look forward to any advice with my camper.
Best Regards,
Bill

[overlander64]

Greetings Bill!

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

Thanks jjustice & Kevin for your kind replys. Your words of wisdom are greatly appreciated. The color of my Argosy is an off-white /cream color. The previous owner metioned that the floors were aluminum because I inquired about a sag in one area and movement of the floors when you walk in the camper. A couple other questions:

You have one of comparatively small number of Minet 6.7s produced with the aluminum composite floors. Sagging or swaying has been one of the issues with these floors. If the sagging or swaying causes you concern, it is possible to add reinforcing braces in the coach's frame below the suspect areas.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

1. I disconnected the battery while I'm hooked up to electricity from my home (I've been sleeping in it 2-3 nights a week with my boys so I kept the electric on to keep the refrigerator working). Is that OK to not have the battery hooked up? I did notice that the original AM/FM/8-track has a hum and doesn't work right with the battery on hooked?

It is possible to operate the old Univots without a battery in the picture, but it was not recommended. The battery helps to keep the Univolt's output evened out - - most noticable in sensitive electrics like radio, television, etc. The radio noise may be originating from a missing or worn out static/noise filter, and/or interference from a Univolt that is beginning to fail (my suspicions would be in the direction of a failing Univolt as it was the first electrical appliance to fail in my Minuet.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

2. The camper has the original refrigerator and is in excellent conditon. Should I always have the electric on while using it at my home or can I not run the refrigerator while the electricity in on? How do I do this?...have it set on gas mode but shut off the gas? Is that an option?

The most important first step in being sure that you are operating the original refrigerator in a manner that will extend its life expectancy is to be certain that it is operated well leveled when parked for any period of time. The level should be checked from the floor of the freezer.

When parked with 120-Volt AC service available, it is your choice whether to operate on AC or LP gas. The controls along the base of the refrigerator permit you to select between LP Gas or Electric for the power source. If the refrigerator operation is eratic or not at all on electric, it is quite possible that the 120-Volt AC heating element is defective - - that heating element can be replaced, but it may be necessary to adapt a generic heating element to fit your refrigerator. If you are having difficulty getting the refirgerator to ignite on gas, you may have one of the following issues:

• There is air in the LP gas line. A problem that is not uncommon when the LP tanks have been removed for refilling. To make the process of ignition easier, turn on one or two rangertop burners and allow them to operate until the flame(s) are a uniform and consistent color. This should remove a magjority of the trapped air and make the project of igniting the refrigerator easier.
• Cobwebs and/or rust particles may be blocking th LP Gas orifice. Using compressed air to blow out debris in the area of the pilot may resolve the issue.
• The ignitor stone or striker mechanism may be worn out or defective. If this is the case, the most common resolutiom is to adapt an electronic ignitor to the unit. I believe that there are a couple of threads on the Forums discussing this alternative.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

3. The propane tanks are filled and I'm currently not using it but I hear a pinging noise coming from one of the propane tanks thru out the day/night? What is up with this?

I don't think that I have ever encountered the "pining" noise that you describe, but I do have a few ideas as to its possible cause:

• The retainer mechanism need to be more fully tightened. My suspicion is that the device is tight enough to restrain the tanks but may have enough play that it is permitting that one tank to move in its mount when the coach is occupies causing the ping. Using the coach without stabilizers could also add to such a problem when the coach is occupied.
• I can't think of an explanation why it would be making an audible noise, but it is something that i would suggest having checked is the automatic switchover regulator. Regulators do wear out with use and/or fail due to age. An LP Gas distributor should be able to test your regulator or direct you to someone who has that ability.
• Operating a tank with a valve that isn't fully opened can result in strange issues and is something that could be verified quite easily.
• Mismatched tanks could also be a source of your problem. It wouldn't take much of a height difference to impact the operation of the hold-down bracket causing noise when the coach is in use.

Good luck with your Minuet!

Kevin

[ArgosyMinuet]

Kevin, thanks for reply and as usual a very thorough remedy to my questions. My refrigerator works fine in both electric & gas mode. My question was to shut down the refrigerator while hooked up to electric at my house (I don't need to use the refrigerator at home). That way I could plug in the camper prior to entering rather than having it plugged in 24/7. Is the only way to do this is to have the refrigerator set on gas mode but have the gas shut off both under the camper & at the tanks?
Thanks again,
Bill

[overlander64]

Greetings Bill!

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

My question was to shut down the refrigerator while hooked up to electric at my house (I don't need to use the refrigerator at home). That way I could plug in the camper prior to entering rather than having it plugged in 24/7. Is the only way to do this is to have the refrigerator set on gas mode but have the gas shut off both under the camper & at the tanks?
Thanks again,
Bill

The knob that allows you to change for LP to Electric should have a third position labeled "OFF". These knobs can get very stiff over the years, and it can take some patience and persistence to free one up so that all three options can be selected. There is a possibility that the shaft can be limited in its movement by either rust/corossion or food particles - - if you suspect this, I would suggest extinguishing all flames so that you can utilize a product that can break up whatever might be fouling the shaft preventing it from freely moving. When this happened with the refrigerator in my Minuet, I utilized my steam cleaning wand - - then worked with the knob to free up its operation - - then lubed with silicone spray (don't know that this would be factory recommended, but it got my selector knob back into good operation).

Good luck with your Minuet!

Kevin

[mutcth]

Sounds like a lovely trailer - that would have been my first pick (22' with aluminum floor) but they're hard to find.

As Kevin mentioned, the aluminum floors are subject to sag between the frame members. Part of the reason that happens is that the crossmember spacing is fairly far - about four-feet on center, compared to two-feet for a normal Argosy/Airstream. I had additional frame members installed that helped that out some.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

1. The manual mentions that the hitch on the truck should be 19.5 inches at the top of the ball. Is this before the trailer is attached or after because I would imagine that it will go down a couple of inches with the trailer attached?

Does the manual say that that measurement is Minuet specific? It sounds right for a "full-sized" Argosy, and the manuals are known for not having much Minuet-specific info.

3. I'm looking for a new license plate holder/etc. The one I have is rusted where the plate is mounted and above. Does anyone know where to get one?

Vintage Trailer Supply has a nice chrome one that includes the light. I believe it will work - I want to upgrade the painted one on my trailer eventually.

Tom

[ArgosyMinuet]

Thanks Kevin & Tom for your replies:
I now have my refrigerator in the OFF mode (I know it was a no brainer but I didn't know that there was an OFF position until Kevin mentioned it...thanks Kevin!). I have no problem with the movement of my aluminum floors. My wife had a concern but my thoughts are to leave well enough alone. I've told my two older boys to not jump inside the camper especially on the beds. Hopefully my floor will not fall thru?
I've measured on a flat level surface my truck hitch & trailer hitch. I have the sway bars attachment with the camper. When the sway bars/hitch are attached to my truck the measurement is 22 1/2 inches at the top of the hitch ball. At the camper the top of the hitch coupling to go over the ball is 15 6/8 inches. The previous owner suggested that I buy a trailer hitch part made by Blue Ox that can lower the height of the ball on the truck by 2", 4" or 6". He had a 6" Blue Ox part with his truck (but I didn't measure the height of his truck ball/etc). Yes the manual is for Argosy & Argosy Minuet and it states that the top of the trailer ball should be 19 1/2".
Should I buy the 2" Blue Ox hitch part (but that would bring it down to 20 1/2")? or the 4" Blue Ox hitch part taking the top of the ball down to 18 1/2"? Again these measurements are with the trailer not attached to the ball...I would imagine if attached the hitch ball would lower slightly. Any recommendations?
Best Regards,
Bill
Happy Wisconsin Argosy Minuet Owner

P.S. I will definitely send pics soon...

[overlander64]

Greetings Bill!

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

Hopefully my floor will not fall thru?

The composite aluminum floors aren't likely to fall through, they are comparatively tough, but are noted to develop sway from use.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

I've measured on a flat level surface my truck hitch & trailer hitch. I have the sway bars attachment with the camper. When the sway bars/hitch are attached to my truck the measurement is 22 1/2 inches at the top of the hitch ball. At the camper the top of the hitch coupling to go over the ball is 15 6/8 inches.

The hitch height measurement when the hitch is cinched and ready for travel isn't as critical as certain other factors:

• Are the trailer and tow vehicle level when sitting on a level surface? If they are, then the hitch adjustment is close to what is needed.
• If the coach is nose high, the ball height or hitch adjustment needs attention.
• If the coach is nose low, the ball height or hitch adjustment needs attention.

Since Reese seems to be the most often utilized hitch, you might check the instructions for setting up the Reese weight distributing hitch at this link.

Originally Posted by ArgosyMinuet

The previous owner suggested that I buy a trailer hitch part made by Blue Ox that can lower the height of the ball on the truck by 2", 4" or 6". He had a 6" Blue Ox part with his truck (but I didn't measure the height of his truck ball/etc). Yes the manual is for Argosy & Argosy Minuet and it states that the top of the trailer ball should be 19 1/2".
Should I buy the 2" Blue Ox hitch part (but that would bring it down to 20 1/2")? or the 4" Blue Ox hitch part taking the top of the ball down to 18 1/2"? Again these measurements are with the trailer not attached to the ball...I would imagine if attached the hitch ball would lower slightly. Any recommendations?

Before getting involved in purchasing new parts, it is best to identify the brand of the hitch that you are working with as assembly and adjustment will be much simpler if the components are from the same manufacturer. Each of the major manufacurers offer adjustable ball mounts with a variety of drawbar drops and rises to accommodatge most any tow vehicle. Each manufacturer has slightly different instructions on the setup for thier hitches, and most offer pdf files of those instructions on the web.

Good luck with your hitch setup!

Kevin

[mutcth]

Originally Posted by overlander64

The composite aluminum floors aren't likely to fall through, they are comparatively tough, but are noted to develop sway from use.

Just to add to this: There are several things that can happen to this floor. It's really a sandwich - aluminium sheet on top, layer of styrofoam middle, and another aluminium sheet on bottom. Heavy traffic can crush the styrofoam in spots, wearing a groove in the floor. The floor can also "sag" between the frame crossmembers.

The previous owner's addition of a wood laminate floor is a good one, assuming the "boards" run along the long axis of the trailer. This adds some more stiffness and protection for the floor sandwich.

Tom

[ArgosyMinuet]

Kevin/Tom: I posted some pictures of the Argosy a couple of weeks ago in the Members Introduction. Hopefully you can check them out. I will learn how to post pictures in my profile. Again thanks for your good words of wisdom. Bill