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Old 08-24-2006, 06:09 PM   #1
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1977 31' Sovereign
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Talking I'm past the hook, now I'm in with the line & sinker

Bought a '77 31' Sovereign today, it needs work but that will give me a chance to customize it the way I want.

It has a center bath. I'm thinking about leaving the galley and shower/bath, all else goes.

The wardrobe lockers are way too much space for us, thinking about putting in two pipe berth (bunk bed style), we use these on sailboats they can fold up out of the way.

Had a broken window in the back that leaked and rotted out about 2 square feet, but the rest is solid, I jumped up and down all was tight.

With everything Ive been reading here about the wood floors, I think I will put one layer of fiberglass 6oz with epoxy resin, then something like Pergo on top.

I noticed that the propane lines were just exposed under the belly. Is that correct?????

Just taking a quick look IT needs a door frame and possibility a door.[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Bob/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Bob/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Bob/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.jpg[/IMG]

Also all the gasket material on the windows is shot. It looks like thick by wide.



Bob
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:53 PM   #2
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Bob,
Congratulations on your project purchase Yes the LP lines are exposed, that way if they leak the LP goes on the ground rather than accumulating in the trailer. Door and Window gaskets are pretty much of a specialty item, however the good news is that most if not all Airstream Dealers should be able to get it for you. I get mine from Out-of-Doors Mart they are in NC but will ship. There are other dealers out there.

Good luck and don't forget to show us the pictures..before and after. We LOVE pictures around here

Aaron
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:20 PM   #3
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Hi, Bob,

Congrats on the new aluminum baby. Shh... don't tell the rest of the forum, but we 70's 31-footer folks are becoming a FORCE around here.

Lamar
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:01 PM   #4
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Sounds great, Bob!
Where did you find it? Locally?

I'm not able to view the photo, but I'd love to see it.

-Chuck
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:25 PM   #5
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Congrats' I got one too!

Bob,
Congrats and I definitely know how you feel. I brought home our 'new' 1978 31' center bath last weekend. I can't wait to take it out.

Tony
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:33 PM   #6
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Thanks,

I found it in Conn, the tires are showing a lot of cracks and not certain about the brakes.

I'm looking around for 4 7x15 D's at good price and bring them with me, at the same time I'll pull the brake drums have a check and pack the bearings.

I'm going to see how much the ferry is with this monster, I rather take it the shortest rout possible until I can get into it better at home.

I'll post some pic's when I get it home, I have a website I can load them up to so size is no issue.

My grand kids can't wait to see it and take a trip.

Bob
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
Thanks,

I found it in Conn, the tires are showing a lot of cracks and not certain about the brakes.

I'm looking around for 4 7x15 D's at good price and bring them with me, at the same time I'll pull the brake drums have a check and pack the bearings.

I'm going to see how much the ferry is with this monster, I rather take it the shortest rout possible until I can get into it better at home.

I'll post some pic's when I get it home, I have a website I can load them up to so size is no issue.

My grand kids can't wait to see it and take a trip.

Bob
Bob,

Why not try the Shelter Island Bridge and Tunnel Authority. http://www.sibta.com/index.html

If you use a Dodge PowerWagon as a tow vehicle, you will get a discount.

Bill
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Old 08-24-2006, 09:09 PM   #8
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I'm taking the ferry from New London to Orient, then to Riverhead.
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:28 PM   #9
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Bob,
Fear not, the SIBTA is a farce.
The ferry will run about $85 or so for the trailer, plus the vehicle (another $42).
I've taken my trailers across dozens of times (usually CSF - New London to Orient). It's a piece of cake, but reservations are really a must with a trailer.

By the way, the propane lines are supposed to be outside.
Heck, if there's a leakin a line, the propane will just float away from you (since propane is heavier than air).
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funchucky1
Bob,
Fear not, the SIBTA is a farce.
The ferry will run about $85 or so for the trailer, plus the vehicle (another $42).
I've taken my trailers across dozens of times (usually CSF - New London to Orient). It's a piece of cake, but reservations are really a must with a trailer.

By the way, the propane lines are supposed to be outside.
Heck, if there's a leakin a line, the propane will just float away from you (since propane is heavier than air).
What, say it isn't so. A PowerWagon fanatic doesn't lie. I need to order a SIBTA t-shirt.

Bill
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65GT
Okay lefty -- how'd you find Sibta? You don't just stumble across something like that...

...
__
65GT,

AP Bloom, the owner of SIBTA, is a regular contributor to the PowerWagon Forum. http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/ You should take a look, you might learn something. Last weekend was the Vermont PowerWagon Rally.

Also, Moose Creek Maple Products, in your fine state, has the best maple syrup.

Bill
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Old 08-25-2006, 05:37 AM   #12
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The trailer is $2.50 per foot monday-thursday, I believe.
$3.00 per foot on the weekend.

The tow vehicle and driver combo is $42.

There is a new (just in the last week) additonal fuel surcharge, too....but it's not THAT bad. I just did the round trip this past monday / tuesday.

The guys with the ruler ALWAYS measure long when they measure the trailer, too. They once measured my 20 footer as 24 feet! I got out and showed them how to use a ruler.....I got it down to 21 feet. Go figure.
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:59 AM   #13
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1977 31' Sovereign
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That's a lot better than gambling with RT 95 for 200 miles, it works out to 30 miles to the ferry and about another 25 on this end.

Not knowing how the brakes are or aren't working is an issue.

I just bought 4 new load range d's so that's not a problem.

The 7 pin connector is in need of cleaning, also will that old version plug into a newer type plug on the TV or do I need an adaptor?

Last question, (not really) to just tow this home do I need good batteries in the trailer, or will all the brakes and running lights work off the TV?

Bob
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
That's a lot better than gambling with RT 95 for 200 miles, it works out to 30 miles to the ferry and about another 25 on this end.

Not knowing how the brakes are or aren't working is an issue.

I just bought 4 new load range d's so that's not a problem.

The 7 pin connector is in need of cleaning, also will that old version plug into a newer type plug on the TV or do I need an adaptor?

Last question, (not really) to just tow this home do I need good batteries in the trailer, or will all the brakes and running lights work off the TV?

Bob
Bob,

The trailer battery is needed only if the trailer comes unhooked and you loose power from the tow vehicle, then the trailer battery is the only thing which will power the brakes through the breakaway switch.

Bill
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Old 08-29-2006, 01:40 PM   #15
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First pic's

Here the starting point
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Old 09-16-2006, 07:13 PM   #16
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The real work begins

See pics http://www.airforums.com/photos/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=15915

Its not as bad as it looks, the shell and the reast of the floor is great it is just the one corner, about 30" W X 48L

After following this forum for a few weeks and now doing this retrofit I believe the route of the water damage is the 2 fiberglass insulation not drying out and rotting the steel.

Im removing all of it under the floor.

I was looking at the banana skins there in good shape except there is slight perforation at each outrigger frame at the sharpest turn.

Im not replacing those skins or Ill never be ready for Thanksgiving.
What I plan on doing is removing the rivets at the bottom edge of the banana skin where it meets the belly pan thereby not disturbing the trim moulding and insert etc.
Take out all insulation do the por etc.
Ill cut 4 x 6 patches and insert them inside the banana skin where the perforations are with some sealer and a few rivets.

There will be no insulation under the floor, I will seal the wood with fiberglass resin.
Inside the whole floor will get fiberglassed.
The whole floor inside will get the foil r-14 under the Pergo.

Im never doing this job again, this should last forever.

Plenty of rot/rust right there, but when I look a little further the paint on the frame is shiny black. Ill weld in some 1/8 steel to beef it up do the por 15 thing.
Put new belly skin in rear, about 60x60 area.

I think I can reuse the belly skin in the front.

When I bought this there were no rear beds, so I'm building a short queen cross ways with access from outside thu a luggage door.
Im saving one of the overhead cabinets for bedding etc.

Bath will stay except new toilet shower head controls.

all new pex plumbing, removed steel duct work replacing that with 4" flex insulated cost $11.

Besides weight savings it will allow more space under the kitchen & toilet sinks.
The kitchen will be rebuilt as it was same fronts all the tambor is good. A new stove top will replace the original (anyone need the old one?)
Also a new Formica top.

The wardrobe doors and frame were removed the upper cabinets will stay, bunk beds will go in that space.

Fridge and pantry are staying ( That is if it gets cold over night) the credenza in front of the fridge will go. As well as the table and Gaucho (all for sale)

Thinking about doing a wrap around dinette.

The Univolt works but will go, a new 55amp power center is planned removing the original breaker box.

I would look forward to your opinions.
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