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Old 07-19-2007, 12:43 AM   #21
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I am surprised that Brad (flyfshr) has not posted here yet. He has a 59 Trade Wind California made. It is easy to tell where the 59 was made. If the toilet is on the curb side it is Ohio, street side California. Brad is also building a list of 59 / 60 model Trade Winds.
You have a great find. Take a look at pictures of Brad's to see what yours can look like. Bad's pictures are on the top half of the page....
Vintage Airstream - '59 Tradewind
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Old 07-19-2007, 07:20 AM   #22
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Thanks to Richard, I finally found this thread. Yes, indeed you have a real beauty there. I believe you have the break down of the serial number for the most part but I'll go over it again.

24 = Length in feet, making it a TradeWind
D = Double bed arrangement
0175 = production number off the assembly line
159 = month and year of manufacture - Jan. of '59

I have been collecting any info I can find on early TradeWind's and I've gladly added yours to the list. The number just below yours is 170 and the one after is 185. Oddly enough, I have 27 listed from each factory. I had originally thought the CA produced more than OH. Welcome to the adventerous world of early TradeWind ownership. YTou're going to have a ball. Ask lots of questions and post even more pictures. We're right here to help.

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Old 07-19-2007, 11:29 AM   #23
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Progress Pics 59 tradewind

Hello, and I am so pleased and greatful for all of you! Well after work last night I dove in head first and cleaned until I ran out of daylight. Two truck loads of debris!

I was careful not to discard any little knobs, wires, plugs, etc. Here are some progress photos. I did not quite get the bathroom gutted.

**I want to plug it in to see if the power works?? But I am quite scared! What should I do before I plug it in?

Thanks Angie
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Old 07-19-2007, 11:31 AM   #24
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The toilet is on the street side!
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Old 07-19-2007, 12:43 PM   #25
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Where is your circuit panel for 110 volt (shore power) located? If you want to plug it in, turn all of the circuit breakers off first. Make sure to hook up to a GFI outlet if at all possible, plus check your electrical connection on the trailer. Is this plug the original to the trailer or has someone reworked it? If it is original, you'll need the cooresponding cord end to connect to your trailer. If all looks in order and safe, plug it in. Turn on the breakers one at a time and have someone with you while you do this. If one of the breakers trips the GFI, you'll know right away which circuit needs attention.

Best of luck.

P.S.: The bottom grill cover for the furnace is in the bathroom sink.

Brad
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Old 07-19-2007, 12:54 PM   #26
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Power box

Hello, I have included photos of the circuit panel and the immediate area as well as a pic of what I think is the outlet I would plug into.
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:06 PM   #27
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I just love those guys at the Dept. of Housing for making trailers of this era use cast iron waste water plumbing!!

A couple of observations. The plug in the front by the water fill tube is not for plugging into shore power. This plug is/was for plugging into the tow vehicle for the 12 volt ceiliing lights, if your trailer was set up like mine. The shore power plug is probably connected to where the electrical box is below the circuit panel but on the outside. Probably has a flip up door and is round. It will have a three pronged recepticle inside. If so, you'll need the appropriate cord that plugs into this outlet. Also, looks like your front window frame is broken. Are all of the pieces laying around inside the trailer? If not, you'll need to find a replacement. Jot down the number that is stamped right on the stationary part of the frame in the center of the bottom riveted frame. That will give you the style and size you are looking for. Should look something like HEHR 1009 1940 as this is what mine are. This means it is a 1009 style window that its cutout opening is 19" tall by 40" long. I also see on your tongue, the trailer's actually, that you have hydraulic brakes because of the reservoir that is there. I had that too. I had a new axle made with electric brakes with new hubs, drums and brakes. Feel much safer knowing its all new.

Keep asking those questions.

Brad
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:16 PM   #28
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Brakes!

Thanks, that was my next question, what to do with the old split rims and do the brakes work, So I need to take her down to the axel shop and build a new axel with electric brakes?

Do you think a standard axel and driveline shop will be able to do this and install it with out destroying it?
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:18 PM   #29
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Hub Caps

Can I keep the old hub caps when this is all replaced?
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:21 PM   #30
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One more thing, I see battery connections under the kitchen sink and what looks like a cover for a battery? Is this normal? And the little connectors are soo cute! I'm sure ill need to replace them.
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev it UP!
Well Safari57, you wont have to worry about Horse Power! Ill bet it is a great car..
Yep, I just have to get it put back together . I'm really really really close now. It's very close to the one we bought almost new in 1970 (it was a few months old) when we sold the less expensive version we bought off the showroom to get the SS which we should have done to start with. We had it 10 years, then foolishly parted with it and had regretted that ever since but never got around to buying another. Then this one popped up with only 46,000 miles on it, completely redone including frame off, partly reassembled, and the owner had a mild stroke and changed his priorities in life including selling his car collection. The car will look just great with an Airstream stuck on the back. Here's a picture of the Chevelle now, another of it's twin off an eBay advertisement in a showroom somewhere, and also one of my buddies '64 Riv that I thought you might get a kick out of. It's my belief that if you have the cars you should drive them, and if you have an Airstream, it should be behind them.....

Barry
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev it UP!
Can I keep the old hub caps when this is all replaced?
Whether you own an iPod or not, you've got to start listening to The Vintage Airstream Podcast - Home. It works to listen over your computer even. I have a hard time sitting still for 40 minutes so will listen at the gym or on the road.

I see moon hubcaps only in your first picture. Colin and Rob on theVAP have said that the wheels with clips for moons are hard to find. So hang on to those wheels like they were gold. This all assumes they are modern wheels -- I don't think (my thinker doesn't always connect, yada-yada...) that a 1959 would have dangerous split rims. Anybody?
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:45 PM   #33
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RIU - a standard axle and brake shop who do spring installations, etc. should have no problem replacing your axle. I didn't notice in your pictures if you still have the belly pan on but if so you may need to take it off before taking it in to the axle shop. You do want to make sure you are getting a set up that is rated for the weight on your trailer. I'm sure someone with knowledge of your model will come on with a recommendation in that regard. Same thing goes for rims and tires - you want to make sure you are okay in that regard as well.

As for the hubcaps being reusable I don't know that. I put mag wheels on mine to match the tow vehicle but it's really a personal preference thing. Take a hubcap with you when you go to the shop and ask them if it's do-able and if not I'm sure someone on the forum will have a solution for you.

You do want to get rid of the hydraulic brake system in my opinion. I realize that tons of trailers including horse and boat trailers still use them but I'm not a fan of them, having a set on my car hauler that are about to be removed.

Let us know how the plugging in of the electrical goes. If there have not been any critters in the walls (mice, etc) and no one has been playing amateur night with the wiring you should be okay.

Barry

PS - rev it up as in tach it up? Every time I see the name the song keeps coming to my head. Yeah, I've got the car thing bad.....
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Old 07-19-2007, 02:01 PM   #34
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What a great car!

Nice Chevelle! and glad I can bring songs into your head safari57!
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Old 07-19-2007, 02:15 PM   #35
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If you have the original baby moons that came with the trailer, they will have two concentric rings towards the outside diamer of the face, then they are worth some $ providing they are without dents and can be rechromed. New rims will probably prevent you from being able to use these but I put on generic baby moons and they look great with a chrome thrim ring on there as well. Having the factory moons also probably means you have the factory split rims, which you don't want to use. You prpbably know this being a vintage car buff. Maybe the axle shop can attach new clips to the new rims and you'll still be able to use them.

Brad
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Old 07-19-2007, 02:29 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
Having the factory moons also probably means you have the factory split rims, which you don't want to use. You prpbably know this being a vintage car buff. Maybe the axle shop can attach new clips to the new rims and you'll still be able to use them.
Thanks Brad. That's the useful information I knew somebody would have first-hand.
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Old 07-19-2007, 03:53 PM   #37
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Cars!

Here are pics of my 64 Riv and My little Red!

** Is the belly pan that whole large lexus type of undercarriage sheet of metal?
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