The Michelins ...... 15in or 16in ..... ? review the loading if 15in. Should be fine, but understand what you have.
Batteries - wet cells need to be disconnected from the parasitic loads when stored. So ..... what do you have? how have they been stored and how do you plan to use them. When you travel using full hook ups, the battery condition need not be prime. If you are planning to dry camp, spend some time researching. A set of Walmart wet cells are a good punt until you have a firm plan. The converter is key to keeping the batteries in great shape, so if the coach has not been upgraded, it should be on your consideration list - PD4655 is one option. There are some solar solutions as well.
With any luck, the basic gear will come with the trailer.
Awning wrench .... a 1/4in dia rod about 4ft long.
A sewer drain hose & graduated support rack. Clear & 90 degree adapters.
Shore water hose - 25 to 50ft and flush hose - 25 ft.
Shore power cord.
Adjustable water pressure regulator and filter - get Y-adapter with shut offs.
Hitch ball lock.
Leveling block Legos and wheel chocks.
Torque wrench to keep lugs torqued - research lug-nut covers vs solid nuts.
Air pressure gauge, bottle jack and basic tool kit.
Plastic spatula to release the windows from the seals - 303 seal treatment.
Depending how the coach was stored, it may need some skin sealing. Inspect the roof, window & seam sealant for cracking and replace as needed.
Look for missing rivets and replace any ones that are missing.
You may have a partial load out as delivered. Review what you have and load heavy items over axle and low in the coach. Light bulky items can go into the ends, but center as much as possible.
Spend time reviewing Colonial videos on your trailer. View videos on tank dumping and fresh water filling. View videos on all the issues when they come up as a question. Research all on the forum as well. Really great info if you look.
Investigate backup cameras. Get good towing mirrors. Practice backing where you can't hit anything. Use a spotter and don't move if you can't see them. Get out and look before you move. Have a plan and tell your spotter. Roll down windows and practice yelling/hand signals.
Towing slower is safer than towing faster. It is easy to pull fast without realizing you have achieved an unsafe speed. Excursions are not easy to forecast. Understand the road clearance of your coach. When wheels fall off the pavement stuff gets damaged. Do not jerk the steering to get back onto pavement. Drive straight, slow down and ease the rig back up. If the trailer starts to sway, do not apply the TV brakes. Apply the trailer brakes and slightly accelerate the TV. When all straight, slow down. When the wind blows, slow down. If it does not feel good, slow down, stop or leave.
Hitch lashup is a whole additional subject. Understand what come with the trailer. Then research that design. What you get may not be what you want for your RV lifestyle. Lots of opinions on this, so go slow. However, not so slow as to ignore axle loading. Learn how to weigh the rig at a CAT scale. An AS needs a soft hitch connection. Rivets break when they are hammered. A hitch lash up takes some testing to get tuned correctly.
If your Tow Vehicle has Light Truck tires = good to go. If it has passenger tires, research what you have and understand the trade offs. Not all bad, just different. Higher pressure can be good, but too much is not so helpful.
Lots more to learn - 12 volt
electrical, details of your coach, program the AC .... lots more to learn. Some you know, some you are dead wrong about and some you don't care.
Good luck. Hope to see your smile down the road.