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Old 05-29-2011, 08:43 PM   #1
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How do you close the door- 2010 Classic?

We have a '10 31 Classic. Needless to say, the first year has been very "challenging", to say the least. But, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to close the door. From the outside it's not as bad since I tip the scales at close to 300 lbs.. I just lean on it. But, from the inside, I haven't figured out how to close it without slamming it. With the amount of force it takes to close it completely it seems like something is going to break sooner or later.

Does anybody have any suggestion?

I looked to see if there was some sort of adjustment, but didn't see anything.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirHedz View Post
We have a '10 31 Classic. Needless to say, the first year has been very "challenging", to say the least. But, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to close the door. From the outside it's not as bad since I tip the scales at close to 300 lbs.. I just lean on it. But, from the inside, I haven't figured out how to close it without slamming it. With the amount of force it takes to close it completely it seems like something is going to break sooner or later.

Does anybody have any suggestion?

I looked to see if there was some sort of adjustment, but didn't see anything.

Thanks for your help!
It needs adjustment. The bolt coming out of the frame can be loosened. It has a rivet that holds the nut plate in place. It is hard to explain.
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:00 PM   #3
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I removed the bolt. There is no adjustment. It screws in and ou.t That's it. Seems like it should move toward the outside of the trailer, but it doesn't move that way.
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:11 PM   #4
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does it close better before you put the stabilizers down?
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny
does it close better before you put the stabilizers down?
No. It is the same either way. It's been a constant issue since it was new.

We have kept it in the same few places for the past year. All are concrete pads that are very level.

I really think the bolt just neefs to be adjusted. But, I can't get it to budge.
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:45 PM   #6
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There's a nice fat rubber seal all around the door and it needs to be compressed a little in order for the door to close but for it to maintain that seal; our 2011 International is the same. I'm hoping that time will help as the seal will degrade slowly, other than that all I can suggest is that you use a careful but firm pull from the inside without lifting the handle any. Because of the height of the handle when you're inside, the natural tendency is to lift it slightly but that, of course just opens the door. Failing that, just slam it!
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:20 PM   #7
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f485...tml#post869916

Tons of info here about doors that misaligne and close poorly. Judging by what I read on here it is a common problem. Yes while pulling it closed on the inside the handle can fall apart in your hands locking you in.
We are finally satisfied with the door, this week we straightend the indoor handle set that was bent from last years misadventure.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:49 PM   #8
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We pull the handle out, push the door shut (compressing the rubber gasket) and then let go of the handle. We don't slam the door to get it to close.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUKToad View Post
There's a nice fat rubber seal all around the door and it needs to be compressed a little in order for the door to close but for it to maintain that seal; our 2011 International is the same. I'm hoping that time will help as the seal will degrade slowly, other than that all I can suggest is that you use a careful but firm pull from the inside without lifting the handle any. Because of the height of the handle when you're inside, the natural tendency is to lift it slightly but that, of course just opens the door. Failing that, just slam it!
Yes, time will lessen the problem. My 2002 ASCL 31' door was difficult to close at first, but after a year or so the gasket yielded and now it can be pulled closed from the inside with minimal effort.
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Old 05-30-2011, 02:36 AM   #10
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I removed the bolt. There is no adjustment. It screws in and ou.t That's it. Seems like it should move toward the outside of the trailer, but it doesn't move that way.
Lube the bolt and striker pocket with "silicone spray".

Magic will take place in front of your eyes.

Andy
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Old 05-30-2011, 05:53 AM   #11
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The door needs to be adjusted. Adjustment is usually done in a high-tech fashion, usually with a small block of wood and a heavy-duty technician leaning on it in strategic places.
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:32 AM   #12
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The door needs to be adjusted. Adjustment is usually done in a high-tech fashion, usually with a small block of wood and a heavy-duty technician leaning on it in strategic places.
Good point Terry. The door is made by different people on the line from the frame. They have a slightly different curve.
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6PackCharlie
We pull the handle out, push the door shut (compressing the rubber gasket) and then let go of the handle. We don't slam the door to get it to close.
Charles
How do you "push the door shut" from the inside? I can push mine from the outside, and that's not much of a problem. But, the inside? Can't "push" it from there.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
The door needs to be adjusted. Adjustment is usually done in a high-tech fashion, usually with a small block of wood and a heavy-duty technician leaning on it in strategic places.
That's going to be the next approach.

May just need a little "coaxing".
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:06 AM   #15
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The door on our 2005 always seems to me to have to be slammed pretty hard to get it to close properly.

Recently, I was at Jackson Centre having a few things done and it occurred to me to ask them to look at it at the same time and possible adjust the door.

We were sitting in the lounge when one of the employees came to find out what was wrong with the door. I went back to the trailer with him to show him.

I was told it was fine - nothing wrong with it! Hmmmm!

At least it doesn't lock us out any more thanks to Inland Andy's "fix!"

Brian.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Lube the bolt and striker pocket with "silicone spray".

Magic will take place in front of your eyes.

Andy
I just now tried this approach. It does seem to be somewhat better.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:16 AM   #17
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I experienced this on my '06 at some point and would say everyone with newer units encounters it too. The door latch assemblies are not lubed heavily and eventually become difficult to close -- takes a heavy slam before people finally start asking. Get some LPS-1 silicone spray (not WD-40 or LPS-3) and stick the red tube into the latch unit anywhere you can.

From a professional view (better than mine!), lewster would say use DuPont Teflon Multi-purpose Dry Lube from Lowes.
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:11 AM   #18
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I think the problem is solved!

We were back in the AS this past weekend end. The issue seems to be much better. I'm not sure that I was able to get the bolt to move very much. So, I think the lube was the real secret.

Thanks for the help, guys!
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:37 AM   #19
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Oh crap - the deadbolt on these things are crap. Mine has been a pain in the AS since the day I got it. Always have to slam the sucker too - but then if you are PERFECTLY LEVEL and THAWED!!! she shuts fine as does the screen door - there is twist in these babies that is for sure....

BUT since we are on the topic. My deadbolt has always had a slight twist in it and has always caught on the uh hum not so great job of the manufactured skin to door system - real butcher cutting job...guess it was hand made - wink!. So it locked me out on my trip south this past week. keys and car keys and well everything inside. The bolt is loose and when I shut the door to wash the trailer down - I needed to unlock the car for the ladder - and YEP that STOMACH to the FLOOR feeling!!!

Thank goodness I had unlocked the hatch to my back of the truck I was able to get a really thin screwdriver and fit it in between the skin to slide the dead bolt over past the skin lip just enough to get it open.

But now a week later and driving through NY - my Dead bolt drum is toast.

Need a new one - is the Factory the only place to get it???

Still love my baby with all the little maintenance she needs. What do people really expect when we bounce the poop out of them on the interstates every chance we get and I bet not many people drive a 40-50 miles per hour either ha ha.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:07 PM   #20
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Oh crap - the deadbolt on these things are crap. Mine has been a pain in the AS since the day I got it. Always have to slam the sucker too - but then if you are PERFECTLY LEVEL and THAWED!!! she shuts fine as does the screen door - there is twist in these babies that is for sure....

BUT since we are on the topic. My deadbolt has always had a slight twist in it and has always caught on the uh hum not so great job of the manufactured skin to door system - real butcher cutting job...guess it was hand made - wink!. So it locked me out on my trip south this past week. keys and car keys and well everything inside. The bolt is loose and when I shut the door to wash the trailer down - I needed to unlock the car for the ladder - and YEP that STOMACH to the FLOOR feeling!!!

Thank goodness I had unlocked the hatch to my back of the truck I was able to get a really thin screwdriver and fit it in between the skin to slide the dead bolt over past the skin lip just enough to get it open.

But now a week later and driving through NY - my Dead bolt drum is toast.

Need a new one - is the Factory the only place to get it???

Still love my baby with all the little maintenance she needs. What do people really expect when we bounce the poop out of them on the interstates every chance we get and I bet not many people drive a 40-50 miles per hour either ha ha.
The door on the 63 will close much easier, if you spray the bolt and striker pocket with some silicone spray.

Andy
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