Title acquired; project oozes forward

[hampstead38]

In Maryland, the "DMV" is called the "MVA." I stopped by on Tuesday to change the title on the '67 only to discover I lacked my wife's driver's license number. She was unavailable, so I had to make a second trip. Fortunately, the entire process took less than 45 minutes from arrival to departure. Erring on the side of caution, I had the transferrable registration from NY, a notarized bill of sale, a title application with every possible bit of information and my checkbook. While there was a bit of confusion (I had to explain that the Airstream is not a "motorhome"), I was able to pay the State and was told I would receive a new title in about two weeks via the mail.

To register the trailer, I will need a safety inspection... and this means I need to get the running lights working, the brakes working, etc. This means I need to buy some tools (like a riveter, rivets, rivet shaver, shaving mug, mug of beer, etc.) Maryland will issue one (and only one) temporary registration to move the vehicle to a safety inspection site. I'll get more information on what a Maryland safety inspection entails from a guru like Frank.

Since we acquired the Airstream faster than expected, I'm in the process of creating a parking pad. Once we have a pad in, I'll move the trailer and continue cleaning my "micro shop" and getting organized. It looks like ordering POR-15 and Vulkem is on my "to do" list. I figure cleaning up the hitch and rear bumper (knocking off the rust, POR-15, paint, etc.) can't hurt the inspection process. I'll also work on the light situation. Of course, if I pull the lights, it makes sense to polish the area to sidestep a reinstall later... or not.

On a positive note, my "micro-shop" was getting out of control due to a lack of project. This is forcing me to get organized and clean things... particularly if I'm going to pull the interior and put things into storage.

[DEITZ645]

Hampstead,
I am glad you survived your brush with the "MVA". Hopefully they didn't lighten your wallet too much. You are also correct that there is nothing like a new project to force you to clean up the shop and get organized. From your pictures, the exposed frame / tongue just seems to have a little superficial rust and that can be cured easily. Hopefully the hidden portion of the frame looks just as good.

I was begining to worry about you since you hadn't posted anything about your new aquisition lately.

keep us and that blog updated. We love to see progress, no matter how small.

[utee94]

Here's a list of other things you'll probably need, as instructed by those wiser than I am:

1) Get some #21 drill bits for rivet hole drilling.
2) Load up on 1/8 and 5/32 drill bits for drilling out old rivets.
3) Vulkem, you've already listed
4) A syringe for applying vulkem in tight spaces.
5) A caulk gun for applying vulkem in large spaces (probably already have one)

[hampstead38]

The "bite" was a bit under $300. Of course, a brand new 2009 Flying Cloud would have been a wee bit more.

The tongue rust is a bit more than I'd like, but I don't think we're to a point of structural weakening. I'm going to Kroil or PB Blast the bolts on the WD hitch and get it cleaned up. Then I'll use the wire wheel on the tongue, as best I can. I haven't read the "destructions" on the POR-15, but I'll follow the prep guidelines. I'll remove and dump the old tanks. I'm thinking aluminum tanks for the maiden voyage next year... and some alloy rims...

As for the rear bumper, there are four holes from a bike rack (now resting at the landfill). I'm not going to stress about the frame, but I see an opportunity to rebuild the rear compartment. The lid (original) is pretty flimsy and the hinges are shot. This could be my first try at aluminum fabrication. The underside aluminum shell seems a bit thin to me as well.

As for the shopping list, thanks. I have explained to my wife the pending necessity for some real rolling tool chests rather than my existing "lash up." I'm going "air," honey, I explained, and all of those new tools will need a special place. I'll look for high quality bits in bulk. I take the "Asian land war" approach to consumables... I just keep throwing bits around the shop until it becomes impossible not to find one.

Hey, a couple of question. On exterior parts like light assemblies, do you bead Vulkem around the outside area to seal after riveting or do you bead it where the parts mate (or both)? I'm sure I'll see how things work a bit more when I start breaking things into small pieces, but I love the experience you guys bring to the table. I'm guessing there's got to be some metal-metal to ground the light assembly, but that's just a guess.

Oh, good call on syringes.

[DEITZ645]

Hampstead,
I think polished aluminm LP tanks really set off a trailer. I looked at new aluminum Worthington bottles for our '87, becuase one of the new OPD valves has a slow leak. One new bottle was somewhere between $150.00 and $200.00 plus more if you wanted a tank mounted gauge. So I figured I will just get the OPD valve replaced.

As for sealing exterior fixtures; I would think it best to seal underneath and at the edges, but I have not done anything like that just yet. The only thing I have replaced on the outside were the marker lights and in that application I just sealed around the perimiter.

I don't think the belly skins are aluminum. I believe the belly skin on our '87 is a galvanized material and I always thought it was only a little thicker than tin foil, but it as westhered 20+ years and is still in pretty good shape. The skin on the '06 is thicker, and I also believe it is a galvanized product. Being only two years old I cannot speak to its longevity.

I am sure somebody elde wil chime in on how to properly install and seal exterior fixtures.

[richinny]

http://www.mva.state.md.us/AboutMVA/.../58000-01T.htm