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Old 10-07-2019, 07:24 PM   #61
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I'm not a fan of Olympic trifold style rivets except for patches or other non load bearing members. So if you don't have access to the back side of the skin where the patch is going because the interior skins are still in place, then Olympic rivets makes installing your patches easier. The head diameters are 5/32", same as the Airstream solid rivets.

Bucking solid rivets is a two person job and requires a air powered riveting tool on the outside and bucking bar held by a second person on the inside.

You have good advice above for sealing the patches so leaks are less of a concern.

Just a thought to make the job easier.

David
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:46 AM   #62
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Thanks!

Thanks everyone!

I do have access to both sides of the skin and am planning to use buck rivets (as opposed to Olympic or pop). I guess I missed the memo on needing the powered rivet tool though Hopefully I can find someone in the area with one!
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Old 10-08-2019, 07:11 PM   #63
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Solid rivet pneumatic tools are readily available. Need an air compressor to run one. They make a lot of noise. Fun.

David

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...ting-s/206.htm
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Old 12-04-2019, 11:03 AM   #64
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1968 26' Overlander
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Maxim Skylight

Back from the field with a little progress to report - I have installed a Maxim skylight!

Because my trailer is old it was a little bit tricky. Maxims are installed directly onto the original AS curb/vent frame. Being from 1968, my trailer has a curved curb with rounded corners. The Maxims are squared corners. Maxim was very helpful in getting my measurements and understanding my situation. I had my skylioght delivered and it fit just every so slightly looser than I would have liked and also sat a bit above the roof of the trailer (ending before the curb does - see pictures).

I re-installed (after TONS of cleaning) the original vent curb the same way I installed the MaxxFans - EternaBond tape, sealant over screw holes, screw, and then a top layer of AlumiBond tape. It was much less attractive than my fan install because of the rounded corners! Then I ran a strip of the EternBond on the curb top and side - where the skylight would be touching. I will never forgive myself for ever so slightly missing the center mark when I laid down the skylight!! It is IMPOSSIBLE to pull something off the EternaBond once it's on. Anyways due to the curved corners I only ended up screwing the skylight to the curb in four place - the front two screw holes (where the skylight and curb were almost touching) and the middle two on the sides. At the rear end the skylight sat too far back from the curb for me to warrant screws...it just seemed unnecessary. I screwed from the inside of the trailer so that you'd be looking at screw heads from the inside instead of the ugly sharp ends. I pre-drilled these holes (though doing the back end would have been impossible due to my AC unit...). Now the skylight is technically sealed via the top of the curb...but I didn't want water or critters able to crawl up in the space between the curb and skylight, where there was some space on all (but mostly 2) sides. Also the skylight frame did not touch all the way down to the roof (see photos again). I did a final layer of AlumiBond tape at a 90 degree angle from the skylight to roof to seal this gap.

I haven't tested waterproofness yet but the rains are finally here in California so at some point I'll drag it out of the barn and give it a test!
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Old 01-11-2020, 12:36 AM   #65
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1968 26' Overlander
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Electrical plans

I would love to solicit your feedback on my (preliminary) electrical plans...I have no experience and am planning on having a professional do the install. But I want to have a really clear layout in my mind of what is using which kind of energy and where outlets, light switches, etc. will be.

Some more specific questions:

Has anyone out there attempted a "smart" Airstream (ie wifi enabled lights and outlets to better and more conveniently track energy usage and be able to turn lights on/off with voice command)?

More generally - what monitoring devices/setups do you recommend for tracking water tank levels, energy draw, etc.?

I go back and forth incessantly with the number of lights an Airstream needs. The beautifully remodeled ones have lights all over the place. Is that necessary? Does it just depend on the bulb/light? It seems people trend towards very small recessed puck lights.

Does anyone have experience with the 12V LED rope lights? I like the look of them but I'm wondering if they give off enough light and how reliable they are.

I'm sure I'll think of more questions. Thanks for your help!
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:56 PM   #66
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I like the Garnet SeeLevel tank and battery monitoring system. I've installed it in both the 66 Trade Wind and the 75 Overlander. It is accurate and reliable. It is also easy to install, especially with the trailer all apart.

I don't know if they make an instrument that displays amps drawn for current energy use. Take a look at their online catalog. Maybe they have one.

David
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Old 01-12-2020, 08:29 AM   #67
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1956 22' Safari
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That's quite an electrical system. I'm used to vintage, but it seems like a lot of lights for a 26' trailer.

Is the underfloor heating used to warm the floor ? Or is it to keep the underfloor tanks from freezing? I am assuming that is 115v.

One thing you might add to your design would be a 12v USB charger, for those times your not hooked to 115v. We have been happy we installed one. - Mark
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Old 01-12-2020, 02:34 PM   #68
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I agree with above. You need USB ports now days . I built these two little panels . The small one is next to where I make the coffee. The other is in the cabinet above the dinette behind a door . Have fun .
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Old 05-06-2020, 12:27 PM   #69
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Hi everyone!

I've been gone for awhile but actually have been getting some work done. Most notably - the patches are in!!! Officially a Stargirl and buck riveting is not hard! Amazing! VTS was out of the buck riveting kit so I ordered the equivalent gun from Brown Aviation.

Also, removed that window that wouldn't close and dremeled off the piece of metal bar hitting the frame so it would close. A one day job to uninstall and reinstall! I was very surprised and satisfied. Got all the materials to get the back window opening again (extrusion bar was missing and plexiglass had just been siliconed in). I had ordered the recommended '68 gasket for windows and it is not deep enough. In fact, on that same pesky window there is an actual GAP with the window all the way pulled close! Planning to order thicker gasket from McMaster Carr. I do have the fixed glass gasket and will be installing those once the glazing tape comes in.

Plans are underway to replace/reinforce some of the ceiling supports, especially where the maxfans are. I plan to install the stove vent today. I have been adhering strips of insulation to mount my layer of reflectix to (an air gap needs to exist to maximize insulative properties). I'm hoping for room for a 1" foam insulation layer as well, but may have to settle with 1/2".

Things are moving along and for the first time in a long time I feel motivated to get it done! Hope everyone is doing well and keeping healthy
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Old 09-29-2020, 08:53 PM   #70
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Hi Stargirl, came across your thread again today as I was browsing for possible tips on my furnace install in my '68 Overlander ('68 Olanders rock!). You've got quite a project on your hands as did I. After a year of intensive work (my first year of retirement) we went operational June 1st which we needed as we lived in it for the next 14 days as we sold/bought/moved etc. Not done but operational, we've had 24 days total so working through the bugs. So yeah, I've been there for everything, belly pan, spray insulation, floor, windows, vents and on and on. It's all doable
If you're feeling stuck, do something fun and different. We're all pulling for you and you've had some of the best helping you out already.
Stay well, Mark D
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