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Old 12-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #1
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1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
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Rear belly pan

If I remove the rear belly pan, can I take out the box that surrounds the black water tank? I wan to get a new box fabbed up and add some support under the tank, maybe a cross bar between the supports there welded in
There is no problem now with the black tank or toilet, just the box is corroded and needs replacement.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:24 PM   #2
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Looks like quite a few threads about this...so basically drop the pan, get the box fabbed, how do yo keep the black tank in while getting the box done?
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:05 PM   #3
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I'm back at this again. The tank support seems to be weak on the right side especially. Suggestions for redoing the support are appreciated.
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:15 PM   #4
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Wow no love for ALANSD!!!!

When you take the tank pan down, it should stay in place while you put the new pan in place. I just had a stainless steel pan made for a 64. We took everything out, but the vent pipe and closet flange should hold it up while you swap them out. Now don't be surprised if you find some floor surprises when you take that pan out...
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:14 AM   #5
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yea! Thanks Frank. I was hoping that was the answer. If the rain will hold up around here for a bit I will pul the belly pan off in that area and see what is going on. I bet there will be some nastiness. LOL
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:56 AM   #6
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Alan, you should check with your local AS buddies first! Chris just finished fixing floor rot in the bag of the '66, replumbing, reinforcing underneath, and HE built the new pan that goes under the blackwater tank. He has now reinstalled everything and put the belly pan back in and now everything is nice and strong.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:31 PM   #7
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Nice I will need to get his advice for sure.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:42 PM   #8
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thanks to Chris for his advice and experience with this. I pulled down the belly pan in between rains today. The galvanized box is shot, but the tank and the styrofoam are ok. Surprisingly little frame rust up in there. If i get the rear part of the pan under the bumper trunk out I can replace the box. Just need some dry weather!
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:55 PM   #9
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Sounds good Alan, I found very little frame rust, just the bottom of the pan was toast. Good luck on the new pan fabrication! Chris
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:44 PM   #10
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Alan

I know this is pretty obvious but make sure the tank is empty!

Use a wide head 3/16" rivet on the belly pan drilled out w/#11 bit
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:10 PM   #11
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When I got my TW the black tank was held in with a pair 2x6s!!. I got the measurements of the box from a friend who had replaced his on a 67 Overlander.
Here is a link to his project Galvanized Box I have a good friend in the HVAC business and he does his own duct work and had a pile of cut offs. He bend up the box and put a flange on top and I riveted it together. He did not charge me anything since he used scrap sheet metal (plus I have bought 2 HVAC systems from him) and since I was doing the work of assembly. I used 2x1/8 angle iron to support it using the original brackets which were in good shape. I used a floor jack with a piece of wood on it to raise the box into position ( I had to install a new black tank too). Then just bolted the angle iron to the brackets and re installed the pan. I put a row of rivets in the rear support. Be careful and drill right on the rear edge as to not drill through and puncture your black tank. The depth of the new box is important, too short and it won't enclose the black tank and if it is too deep the black tank will be held only by the flange and not supported on the bottom and that will end badly.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:19 AM   #12
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thanks. I am on it as soon as the weather cooperates.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:50 AM   #13
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As it turns out, the old box is bolted thru the floor above, and a good amount of the bolts are not coming out. Some broke, a few turned and came loose but many, especially at the edge further in towards the front of the trailer are stuck and / or unreachable.
Plan B should be next.
What plan B is though I am not yet sure, taking a break now to hit the gym and rethink this.
I am considering getting a sheet of galvanized metal and running it under and around the intact part of the box. A "patch". Aint gonna be pretty but it might do the job as the tank seems to be in fine shape and well supported. The box is attached well on two edges. Also the leading edge of the box in up under the floor support and seems pretty solid there. Any ideas?
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:13 AM   #14
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I slept on this plan and think I am going to hold off and investigate tools that might work to cut off the bolts. I have a dremel so that might be an option. Its just too hot and steamy now to get a lot done. Next camping trip is September. LOL
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