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Old 07-27-2008, 07:00 PM   #1
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Pulled the trigger on a 67' overlander

I've been lurking on this list for about 6 years now and this last weekend the wife and I finally got ourselves an Airstream, a 1967 Overlander.

Here are some pictures after it got it's first bath.
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

It had been sitting in an RV park east of Payson AZ for 7 years. The PO's used it as a cabin of sorts. Almost all original, absolutely no dents, good belly pan with little cancer. So far the floor seems to be is real good shape, even in the bathroom. All of the appliances work for the most part.

Tires were shot so it got new shoes in Payson, electric brakes worked after I found out (in the original owners manual!) that Airstream had it's own pin out/color code for trailer wiring. Pulls like a dream, SO glad I got rid of that toy hauler!

We took the awning down due to it's very poor installation, the top mounting points were attached to the skin with 3 inch lag screws!

The fridge is original and works quite well (even in Phoenix summer heat) but only on 110 so far. Tried it on propane and it lit but didn't cool.

The plumbing is hacked up a bit. Rigged to run on shore water only, we pulled the water tank today and most of the associated plumbing because everything leaked... Pump, tank, rubber hoses, everything.

I don't think the black water tank is original, it empty's to the side of the trailer now and a gray tank was added at one point also, both work in spite of the spagetti plumbing mess behind the bathroom.

AC was installed by Airstream in 67 (We have the recipt!) and it still works although the inside piece is causing the skin to seperate a bit.

I'm gonna have a ton of questions over the next few weeks but for now, it's pool time, I'm exhausted.

Oooo! I almost forgot, except for the rear window they are all original Corning!!!! Sweet!
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Old 07-27-2008, 07:24 PM   #2
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Welcome and congratulations on the "new" trailer.
Was that trailer located in Star Valley just off of the 260? I thought I saw one there a few times on trips up to the rim.

Sounds like you found a nice trailer that will keep you busy for a while. Have fun and don't wait another 6 years to post again.
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Old 07-27-2008, 09:20 PM   #3
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No, not the star valley one, it had been sitting at Wheeler Inn RV Part in Christopher Creek.

The short term plan is to get all systems functional before Labor Day.
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanetten View Post
I've been lurking on this list for about 6 years now and this last weekend the wife and I finally got ourselves an Airstream, a 1967 Overlander.

Here are some pictures after it got it's first bath.
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

It had been sitting in an RV park east of Payson AZ for 7 years. The PO's used it as a cabin of sorts. Almost all original, absolutely no dents, good belly pan with little cancer. So far the floor seems to be is real good shape, even in the bathroom. All of the appliances work for the most part.

Tires were shot so it got new shoes in Payson, electric brakes worked after I found out (in the original owners manual!) that Airstream had it's own pin out/color code for trailer wiring. Pulls like a dream, SO glad I got rid of that toy hauler!

We took the awning down due to it's very poor installation, the top mounting points were attached to the skin with 3 inch lag screws!

The fridge is original and works quite well (even in Phoenix summer heat) but only on 110 so far. Tried it on propane and it lit but didn't cool.

The plumbing is hacked up a bit. Rigged to run on shore water only, we pulled the water tank today and most of the associated plumbing because everything leaked... Pump, tank, rubber hoses, everything.

I don't think the black water tank is original, it empty's to the side of the trailer now and a gray tank was added at one point also, both work in spite of the spagetti plumbing mess behind the bathroom.

AC was installed by Airstream in 67 (We have the recipt!) and it still works although the inside piece is causing the skin to seperate a bit.

I'm gonna have a ton of questions over the next few weeks but for now, it's pool time, I'm exhausted.

Oooo! I almost forgot, except for the rear window they are all original Corning!!!! Sweet!
Never did find your photo's, after 30 pages.

Andy
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:43 PM   #5
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Never did find your photo's, after 30 pages.

Andy
Andy, go to the site, type in bvanetten in search and it will take you to his photos, then click on overlander on the right under albums.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:00 AM   #6
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Andy,

Try this link.

BTW - Very nice Airstream! These pictures make me realize just how far I have yet to go.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:41 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bvanetten View Post
No, not the star valley one, it had been sitting at Wheeler Inn RV Part in Christopher Creek.

The short term plan is to get all systems functional before Labor Day.
Make sure the old awning mounting holes are plugged.

Check all you window and entrance door gaskets. Unless they were replace, all of the exterior gaskets are history.

Lastly, don't go to far, as your axles are bad too.

The following article will teach you how to check them out in 30 seconds.

Dura Torque Axle

Looks like for most part, you got a good deal, except for the exterior that needs some attention in several areas, including re-clearcoating.

Andy
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:15 AM   #8
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Doh! I posted a link to the pics from when I was logged into my account. That won't work for everyone else. I should know better being an IT guy and all. Thanks for correcting the link.


"Make sure the old awning mounting holes are plugged."

Yep, my plan is to get a 5"x5" or 6"x6" piece of 3/16 or 1/4 inch aluminum plate and form it to the contour of the skin where the awning will mount. I will build up an additional 1/4 to 5/16 of plate where the awning bracket will mount. Wholes will be drilled and tapped for stainless bolts. These plates will then be rivited to the skin and sealed. This should allow a proper mounting point for the awning and distribute the load across the skin better also.

"Check all you window and entrance door gaskets. Unless they were replace, all of the exterior gaskets are history."

I've been compiling a parts list for you for the past couple of days.

"Lastly, don't go to far, as your axles are bad too.
The following article will teach you how to check them out in 30 seconds."

I know, I know. Contemplating disk brakes when I do it also. Don't know if it is worth the extra tho.
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:21 AM   #9
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Fresh water tank

There was a poly tank in front of the front couch. It has a 1" whole warn into it on the bottom so I will be replacing it. It is about 12"x12"x50 ish. This works out to be about 28 gallons, I want more. The wood for the front couch/bed is not in good structural shape so it will be rebuilt. I was thinking of removing the two middle slide out tubs and installing a different shape water tank there. I could fit a 36"x33"x10" tank there which would get me about 46 gal.

To heavy?
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:33 AM   #10
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It has a 1" whole warn into it
Wow. I need to wake up before I post. That should have been "hole". Heh, at least it was spelled right!
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanetten View Post
Doh! I posted a link to the pics from when I was logged into my account. That won't work for everyone else. I should know better being an IT guy and all. Thanks for correcting the link.


"Make sure the old awning mounting holes are plugged."

Yep, my plan is to get a 5"x5" or 6"x6" piece of 3/16 or 1/4 inch aluminum plate and form it to the contour of the skin where the awning will mount. I will build up an additional 1/4 to 5/16 of plate where the awning bracket will mount. Wholes will be drilled and tapped for stainless bolts. These plates will then be rivited to the skin and sealed. This should allow a proper mounting point for the awning and distribute the load across the skin better also.

"Check all you window and entrance door gaskets. Unless they were replace, all of the exterior gaskets are history."

I've been compiling a parts list for you for the past couple of days.

"Lastly, don't go to far, as your axles are bad too.
The following article will teach you how to check them out in 30 seconds."

I know, I know. Contemplating disk brakes when I do it also. Don't know if it is worth the extra tho.
A heavy patch plate is not necessary, if you install a Zip Dee awning. Their awning mounts directly to the main bows, and not to just "sheet metal," ball park 6 inches or so, above the rub rail. That is if whoever you order their awning from, will order the correct length awning. A patch plate, of .032 is more than adequate.

Ask anyone that had electric brakes who switched to disc brakes.

They all will tell you that the improvement in braking, was substancial, and that they were all happy that they switched.

Having a custom tank made with those dimensins is ok, but make super sure that the tank is tied down properly, so that it cannot move.

The original filler neck should still work fine with that size tank.

What make and model tow vehicle do you have?

Andy
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:06 AM   #12
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I know, I know. Contemplating disk brakes when I do it also. Don't know if it is worth the extra tho.
Since you need new axles may I suggest you do get the discs and never lube hubs.

You can skip the yearly bearing packing and more importantly your discs will never fade going down a mountain and if your truck brakes fail you can easily stop the whole shebang with your trailer brakes. As an added plus your stopping distances will be shorter. The difference is astounding.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:30 AM   #13
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Since you need new axles may I suggest you do get the discs and never lube hubs.

You can skip the yearly bearing packing and more importantly your discs will never fade going down a mountain and if your truck brakes fail you can easily stop the whole shebang with your trailer brakes. As an added plus your stopping distances will be shorter. The difference is astounding.

The never lube hubs are great, but not for a trailer that has brakes of any kind.

Why?

The never lube, granted, does it's job for the bearings, sort of.

BUT, they also create a huge and false sense of secutity, when it comes to proper PM for the brakes.

PROPER PM for brakes required that you take the drums off, or the hubs in the case of disc brakes, EVERY 10,000 miles, or once a year, which ever comes first.

The never lube setup, teaches a person, to neglet the brake PM factor, BECAUSE the bearings are lubed for 100,000 miles, so why mess with anything.

That kind of PM, will cause nothing but grief, and digging into the pocket book even moreso, since most bets are that the brake PM, will be forgotten.

Therefore if the hubs must come off, why not repack the bearings, which allows them to be inspected, to make super sure, that the bearings are OK, instead of assuming that they are OK.

Water gets into the bearings, and it does not matter what type grease seals are used. That water can damage the bearings.

When will a bearing fail?

It certainly won't happen in your front yard.

To us, the never lube bearing setup, is nothing more than a sales gimmick, since it's very misleading.

Andy
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:45 AM   #14
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What make and model tow vehicle do you have?

Andy
A 1990 one ton Dodge Cummins chassi with a 1972 Chevy Suburban on top.

The truck and trailer look quite nice together.
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:19 PM   #15
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A 1990 one ton Dodge Cummins chassi with a 1972 Chevy Suburban on top.

The truck and trailer look quite nice together.
With your super heavy duty tow vehicle, you should use a 550 to 600 pound hitch, no more.

If you purchase a Reese, get the straight line, or dual cam as it is also called.

You have one of the most difficult tow vehicles to properly hitch to tow a travel trailer.

To tow your Airstream, a good 1/2, is adequate.

Your rigged for the Queen Mary, but it doesn't have wheels.

Your super heavy duty tow vehicle and shot axles, each within itself, will beat the trailer to death, quickly.

New axles will help, and light rated hitch bars will help as well.

But that's as far as you can go.

Unless you need that truck for other reasons, next time your going to buy another truck, stay away from the "super heavy duty. as it's a handicap weight wise, and I am sure it's fuel consumption is high as well.

Andy
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:38 PM   #16
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It sounds like you found a winner.

As you have found out already, you'll get many different opinions on how to do things from the group here. No disrespect intended but I'm pleased with the Nev r lubes and so are some other folks. They make it less messy to check the brakes

http://www.wbcci.org/documents/Schus...May%202007.pdf

With a 1 ton, do a search on airsafe hitches. A few 'streamers here use them to avoid snatching the front of the trailer apart.

Go Camping!
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:11 PM   #17
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Andy and I may disagree about the Nevr-lube hubs but we do agree on disc brakes and being safe by always checking your running gear.

Every dollar or minute you spend. Either checking your gear or adding safty equipment like the proper WD hitch or anti sway etc. can save you thousands of dollars in repairs to your rig or yourself.

See you around the campfire.
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:16 PM   #18
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I'm not sold on the NevRLube hub, for a slightly different, and mechanical, reason. Most new cars, and many light trucks, have sealed bearings like the NevRLube. 99%+ of the time, they work great. But have you ever ridden in a car that has a bad sealed wheel bearing? They howl, growl, and rumble. Along with the rumble comes vibration. Since you are in the tow vehicle, you will never hear the rumble or feel the vibration, but the trailer will. And, since you aren't checking the brakes and hubs like you normally would, it could be a very long time, with lots of vibration, before you realize there is a problem, usually noted by some popped rivets or stuff inside that has rattled around. And it is very hard to detect when there is no weight on the bearing, plus you can't take the hub apart and examine the bearings, because they are sealed.
So, while they can be great, they can also cause their share of problems. If I got discs I would certainly consider them, but from a mechanical perspective I would know what to look for, and how often to check them.
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