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Old 11-15-2010, 03:54 PM   #141
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1973 27' Overlander
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..........If you use steel there isn't it a problem if it is against the aluminum door frame? Meaning corrosion? I guess I could run sealant between the two.
The frame on my '73 was painted by the factory boys. There was some minor rust on the frame and corrosion on the Channel (tho not too bad). I POR 15'd the frame steel before I set the aluminum back down on it permanently.

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Old 11-15-2010, 04:25 PM   #142
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I will do so.. I already painted what I could see that I am not replacing. I am wondering what to do for the support of the floor by the door..from the entry door back to the end of the refrig. cabinet there is no real outside support. The new outriggers will be there, but what should I do at the end of the flooring? I am not too keen on pulling out the inner skin as the whole replacement plywood area is not that big.
After a day of rain, I can see the leaking door area is not leaking now, after new sealant was applied around the eyebrow and side seams.
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:28 PM   #143
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So the floor goes into the c-channel which should run along the outer wall? Since I have nothing at or near the door resembling a channel or support, what do you all suggest?

I will replace the outriggers near the door on both sides, and then put in a new plywood section. This looks to be 1/2" plywood.
I've been helping another forum member with his floor for the past few weeks. One of the problems we ran into was that the welder did a really bad job of attaching the new outriggers. Ask your guy to make sure the new ones fit exactly as the old ones--and that they are precisely the same dimensions.

In my '73, there is a piece of 90 degree angle aluminum that sits over the outrigers that the step slides into. This is riveted to those outrigers. The floor plywood sits on top of that, then the door frame on top of the plywood. Between the plywood and the outriggers is a piece of aluminum about 2 feet square that covers the bottom of the plywood. Stiffens the area up nicely.

So, the order from bottom to top would be:

Outriggers
90 degree angle aluminum
Thin sheet of aluminum
Plywood floor
Door frame

Hope this makes sense.

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Old 11-15-2010, 04:35 PM   #144
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I have that sheet of aluminum. It was in there not doing a whole lot. Thanks for that info Jim
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:02 PM   #145
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Bathroom faucet replacement

I am moving on to removing the bath & Kitchen faucets, and all copper plumbing.
How do you get the bathroom sink faucet out?
If I need to pull the sink, where do you access the rivets that are holding it..if there are any.
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Old 11-25-2010, 03:56 PM   #146
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Alan:

I am hoping to get on my 1960 this weekend. Lots to do. I just put my 1973 away in a barn and put it on blocks to be used as a temporary home. Lots to do if I want to go camping.

I have not even looked at the kitchen sink in the 1960. I don't think I am going to remove mine. I pulled all the copper out and going with pex. Have you taken your tub out? If so how did that go. Do you know how easy it is to get the drain loose. It looks rusted and frail.

Taking the small rot spot at the front door and going with marine sawdust, epoxy and fiber glass. Putting hard wood floors in.

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Old 11-25-2010, 08:26 PM   #147
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I just redid the spot by the door with bondo, some metal and a small piece of plywood.
Pulled the tub surround off but trying not to pull the tub. Its in good shape, I may not even paint it.
I am now trying to get the bathroom faucet off but can't quite get to the connections under the sink.
This morning I stripped the clearcoat on a few panels in the front and am getting ready to lay the new flooring in when it arrives at Home Depot. A little here and there chipping away at it.
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Old 11-26-2010, 05:06 AM   #148
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What kind of floor are going with? We went to home depot two weeks ago looking. We want to go with pre-engineered hard wood. I am going to Marine West near Jimmy Carter Blvd and picking up the Epoxy and wood dust today.

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Old 11-26-2010, 08:52 AM   #149
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I am using the Trafficmaster Allure vinyl planks. They are light and strong and waterproof.
We ordered there newer cork look, I had the antique elm last time, in fact almost a box left over from doing my 31' Excella, so I am using that under the gaucho where it can't be seen. Got it at H Depot.
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:43 AM   #150
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Alan:

I went to West Marine by Lake Lanier and bought some wood epoxy. I am working at the front door around two bolts. Do you know how those bolts are anchored in. I got under the steps today and did not see a nut holding the bolts. How are they attached to the frame? Are they screwed into the frame with a large self taping screw? I was thinking of taking them out and drilling through the frame and putting in bolts with lock nuts.

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Old 11-26-2010, 03:43 PM   #151
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Actually my door has 3 or 4, they were so rusted out they were attached to nothing, and whatever they should go thru is not there either.
I am going to get a support welded in there, and then screw or bolt the frame through it
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:58 PM   #152
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I went and bought metal today for the support. I am going to put it in tomorrow. I am going to wedge it under the metal frame and bolt it through the floor. I don't have anybody to weld for me. I don't think it is going anywhere. I bought two pieces. 3/4" angle iron and I am going to bolt it to a straight piece of metal. when combined into one piece I am going to wedge it under the floor. I will wrap the alminum I peeled back over the fix. I will put the wood epoxy in by the screws and then fiber glass the first 12' If that does not work then I will get it welded.

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Old 11-27-2010, 08:05 AM   #153
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I am using the Trafficmaster Allure vinyl planks. They are light and strong and waterproof.
We ordered there newer cork look, I had the antique elm last time, in fact almost a box left over from doing my 31' Excella, so I am using that under the gaucho where it can't be seen. Got it at H Depot.
What's the advantage of these over cork?
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:15 AM   #154
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price is one. I love cork but this will cost me 100 total.
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:16 AM   #155
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I went and bought metal today for the support. I am going to put it in tomorrow. I am going to wedge it under the metal frame and bolt it through the floor. I don't have anybody to weld for me. I don't think it is going anywhere. I bought two pieces. 3/4" angle iron and I am going to bolt it to a straight piece of metal. when combined into one piece I am going to wedge it under the floor. I will wrap the alminum I peeled back over the fix. I will put the wood epoxy in by the screws and then fiber glass the first 12' If that does not work then I will get it welded.

Brian
How did that work out ? I still have to do something there...photo appreciated if you can
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:21 AM   #156
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Used some extra plank flooring under the gaucho where it only is visible when the drawers are out. Now I don't have to waste the new cork look there. Went smoothly took about 20 minutes.
Put the gaucho back in but not permanently as I want to run the 1/4 round first.
I also strengthened the refrig cabinet frame and put in some oak paneling between it and the oven. Not visible either but needed.
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:18 PM   #157
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Alan:
I would like to show you pics but my camera was stolen along with other personal items. Thugs hit our neighborhood and broke into about 15 cars. I will try to get my son to take a pictures. Third time with in 6 weeks cars in our neighborhood have been broken into. Police don't do anything.

I took the 3/4" angle iron and a straight thin sheet of steel and and bolted the two together. It went very smooth. I wedged it in under the frame floor and the steps. I used a hammer and taped it in nice and snug. It lifted the floor at the door way to a perfect level. No more bounce or give. I used the marine epoxy and put it aroung the bolts. That epoxy hardened with in minutes. I then put wood bondo around by the bolts. When that was all finished I sanded the floor and put fiberglass over all of the front entrance way. Nothing is moving. I figure when I put the engineered hardwood floors in it will give added support.

Had a very frustrating day using Nuvite. Lewis one of our airforum members came to the house and showed me how to use it. The oxidation and scratches disappeared in no time. yesterday and today it just seemed like it just wanted to smear. Hours and I did not get very far.

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Old 11-28-2010, 05:39 PM   #158
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You drilled hole in the steel and then ran the bolts thru into it? Sounds like a plan.

The trick as you may now know with Nuvite is using less than you think you need...and polishing it until it is pretty much dry. I stirpped a few panels but I won't attempt any polishing until my interior and plumbing are all done.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:36 PM   #159
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Alan:

When I get the new floor in I plan to put a metal threshold in the entrance. I have two possible plans for the metal support I made. One I will drill two small holes and use self taping screws to have the support screwed to the the frame. I am also thinking of drilling through the frame with a 3/8" bit and continuing through the sub floor and then the engineered floor. I will bolt all of it together with a flat head bolt. I will put the entrance metal threshold over the bolts. This will make everything sandwhiched together. I tested the floor today with my wife looking and it still sagged just a little. Bolting everything should end all of that. Anyway it is 100 % better then what it was. Even with it pounded and wedged between the frame stairs I don't think it will move, but I will have to bolt it because that would be the right thing to do.

I bought my 3/4" angle iron that flat piece of metal at Ace. I used the flat sheet of metal to make the angle iron look like an "L". I took the long part of the "L" and wedged it under the floor. The small Part of the "L" was butted up against the 5/8" floor. Made a nice face plate for the bare wood.

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Old 11-29-2010, 11:49 AM   #160
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I like the ideas. Using a threshold for extra strength is a good one.
Other than this I have only the belly pan at the back where it has come loose inside the rear bumper hatch area. If I get those two areas tightened up the trailer will be pretty stout.
Too bad about your camera by the way.
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