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Old 11-04-2010, 10:25 AM   #121
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does everyone use the D gasket for their door/window seals? I need to seal my door before I get the flooring in.
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:39 AM   #122
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I am using the old style gasket. It has worked well for me. The D gasket needs to done with three pieces for the windows and that , to me, is two more possible leaks.

Others may have had good experience with the D gasket.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:19 PM   #123
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where did you get the gasket? I have not seen anything listed for 66. its either older or newer.
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:20 PM   #124
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I am using the old style gasket. It has worked well for me. The D gasket needs to done with three pieces for the windows and that , to me, is two more possible leaks.

Others may have had good experience with the D gasket.
The "D" gasket, when properly installed, is in one piece "only".

It indeed does bend around the square corners.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:24 PM   #125
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where did you get the gasket? I have not seen anything listed for 66. its either older or newer.
The new style "D" gasket, is a superior upgrade to the original double flared gasket.

At this point, 90 percent of the "D" window gasket is ordered, and only 10 percent orders the old style.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:25 PM   #126
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where did you get the gasket? I have not seen anything listed for 66. its either older or newer.
The "D" gasket is for the entrance door and windows on a 66 Airstream.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:03 PM   #127
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I shoulda called already.
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:30 PM   #128
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There is your answer.... I guess I am in the 10% category.
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:12 PM   #129
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Surprised?- maybe not

Well this 66 surprised me because of the general lack of floor problems. The small spots around the door and under the refrig. were all found when I ripped up the ASBESTOS( yikes- I did not know it was) floor tile.
Until yesterday, when I found the spot under the bathtub. Looked pretty small, then I drilled and rippped off the front tub surround cover and found it to be a bit more rotten than I thought. Not a large section but it is rotten all the way.
Looks like some new wood will go in there, and then I am thinking of replacing the 2 tub surround base pieces with aluminum, riveted on where the plastic was.
I got a good tip from another 66 owner on a shop near me that will copy some of the plastic or metal parts and make them in stainless. Might do that for the vent pipe cover above the tub as well. It would sure look cool.
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:37 PM   #130
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Dumb and dumber!

Yeah talking about myself on this ...I had a nasty leak when I got my trailer, no caulking around the vent pipe. new caulk fixed it right up, survived a huge storm too.
Now that I am ripping out the floor and found a couple of other spots I came to the realization I had not checked the other vents and seams. DUMB!!
Sure enough there was no caulk left on any of the vents, and above the windows, or in the seams. So guess what I did today after work!

Glad its done, now I am treating the spots with glycol and then will repair them before flooring.
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:27 AM   #131
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Finished the sealer around the vents and windows. Sprayed the rotted floor wood areas with glycol and boric acid to kill the rot. Then wood hardener goes on in a few days, then bondo.
Weather here is fabulous so getiing a little done after work daily.
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:27 AM   #132
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I have refinished a lot of wood and it looks like oak.... but I also have an ash guitar and the grain is pretty similar.Now that you mention it..could very well be...the swirled grain and all...
I am refinishing it with an oil wood restorer. hope to make it beautiful and not overly shiny. Then the flooring comes next, followed by upholstery, new mattresses and tires. Not gonna hit the road for awhile.
I really like the way the cabinets look with the stencils off and the new finish on. What did you use for the cabinet refinishing?

Also, did you end up replacing the foam on the gaucho? Where do you get something like that?
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:56 AM   #133
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Thanks those stencils really bugged me. I used a mild stripper where needed, but most of the cleaning was done with rubbing alcohol. That removed the stencils. I stained with minwax, and then used tung oil to give it some luster. When it is all done I will wax with a good paste or finishing sealer.
Now in the midst of minor floor repair and then painting on a sealant there too before putting in plank flooring.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:06 AM   #134
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No entry step support

I cut out the 12" x 12" plywood under the refridgerator area, to replace it. My entry step is next to this...and I see there is really nothing across the front of the trailer where the step attaches, to hold it down. You can see the rusty bolt going into air only.
Since I don't weld, I wonder what I can do to repair this? Get someone to weld a piece of metal across the entry area to the outriggers? The left outrigger is rusted but mostly solid, the right seems ok.
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:40 PM   #135
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Alan:

I have pretty much the same situation. I am going to replace a small area at the front door. The wood is touching the two bolts on each side of the door and has rotted. This is the only spot and the front of the wood is solid. This is where the bolts are moving up and down.

I do have a small piece of flat metal about 6" back from the step. In my other airstream I had somebody weld part of a garage door frame on to one of my cross members. The metal was strong and had holes in it. I counter sunk bolts in the holes and put lock nuts and washers on them. I have never had a problem since. I used epoxy to cover the counter sunk bolts. You would never be able to tell.

You can see the garage door frame I had welded . I painted it with por15. You can see the holes in it. Look past the butt plate.

What ever you do please post pictures because I am thinking this one through also.

Brian
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:07 PM   #136
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Thanks for that idea. I just found a guy who does welding and fabrication and will come to my house in a rolling shop for 200 a day, or by the hour at a very good rate. If I get a couple of outriggers, and something to go behind the door frame he can weld it up for me. I can try home depot for some metal that he can cut to fit.
If you use steel there isn't it a problem if it is against the aluminum door frame? Meaning corrosion? I guess I could run sealant between the two.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:42 PM   #137
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really making progress on your baby. There is a place on williams dr in marietta called metal supermarket if you can draw it he can fabricate it, I may use him soon if he is not too pricey
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:44 PM   #138
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oops
your guy can fabricate too, cool if your happy w/the result give me his info.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:39 AM   #139
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I will hopefully see him soon. I am ordering the needed outriggers, and will let him fab the extra door support.
I have been meaning to go to metal supermarket for a long time. Need to do that too.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:07 PM   #140
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So the floor goes into the c-channel which should run along the outer wall? Since I have nothing at or near the door resembling a channel or support, what do you all suggest?

I will replace the outriggers near the door on both sides, and then put in a new plywood section. This looks to be 1/2" plywood.
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