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Old 10-17-2010, 07:20 AM   #101
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I will try that today. Thanks
Confusing as mine has also a blue which faded almost looks white.
If I can get the 4 wire working at least I can use it for now.
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Old 10-17-2010, 12:15 PM   #102
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Tried every combination of 4 wires I could and nothing. Seems like a fuse must be blown on the trailer side, but the only fuses are in the back access panel, and they are all looking ok.
With the 4 wire plugged into the truck, using my test light I get the signals to flash on the tester. Yellow on the 4 wire and white work for the left side blinker, but none of the wires on the trailer side now do anything. I know the 4 wire worked before I tried to change it out. Stupid,,,should have left it alone for now.
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Old 10-17-2010, 03:07 PM   #103
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Alan
sounds like a ground issue, may seem like a stupid question but is your truck hitch attached to the trailer? If it is check for ground at the access panel, should have one... bellypan curbside just aft of the A frame

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Old 10-18-2010, 10:37 AM   #104
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Actually no the hitch was not attached. I started thinking grounding also last night after I got frustrated. Will try again today with the hitch on. I figure ground or fuse has gotta be it.
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:27 PM   #105
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I did not hitch up, but rasn a good ground from the trailer to the truck. Tried the various 4 wires off the truck connector, got the left turn to blink the left top marker and the license plate light. That was it.
If I connected the right turn signal nothing, unless I tapped the same wire, then the same two lights blinked. WTH?
Makin me crazzy.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:46 PM   #106
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could even be a short somewhere BUT you had all the lights working, so I dont think its anything too serious. Did you duplicate the connections that you had w/the 4 pin that you cut off? If not start with the running light circuit (probably green from your trailers original 7 pin) connect just that to the trucks running lights (and a ground) see what that does. Right on the trucks 7 pin it is probably marked what each pin is for. Cant hurt much as long as pos and neg stay separate.
No expert so hope some of my nonsense helps!!! Call if you need to
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Old 10-19-2010, 05:28 AM   #107
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I tried everycombo I could think of and could only get the 1 marker and license plate light to glow. Puzzles me as we said because they did work before.
I removed the second battery tray on Saturday, hope I did not inadvertently disconnect something else. I don't think so as I trace the wiore from the tray back to the fuse panel, and disconnected it there.
We are borrowing tow lights for the weekend. Might hget some heads together in Hiawassee this weeeknd and see what we can reason out.
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:09 AM   #108
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At least you found a way to get to the Rally,just finished pulling the floor out on mine so its not going anywhere. At least the frame looks good. See you Saturday.
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:04 AM   #109
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Glad the frame is good that's major! My floor luckily only has a very few soft spots, mainly around the door. After Falluminum I will be pulling out the gaucho and some other stuff so IO can fix those spots...then on to the pex project.
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:18 PM   #110
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got my lights working. After our Rally where it was suggested I had set up a false ground, I saw the light...literally. Re-wired and got the 4 pin and then 7 pin working except for the brake controller which so far does not respond. But all is good.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:44 PM   #111
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Got the brake controller working. Once I found the newer color code for the wires it kicked on. So my 7 pin is functional now.
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:21 PM   #112
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Pulled out the old Dometic

The Dometic Fridge would not work, so I knew it had to come out. Either to try "burping" it, or to replace. It looks so rough the second choice works for me. Getting it out was a treat..the bolts were totally rusted.
But a little muscle and some patience and it is out.

The trailer has really only one leak ( yeah amazing, I know),it's around the door, where the seal is gone.
So-- it leaked right up under the fridge and the floor there is pretty shot. Also the wood panel between the fridge and oven.
The good news is the frame outrigger visible underneath thiis area is minimally rusted. Had the p.o only replaced the door seal! But the AS sat for 15 years, so what did I expect? Actually a lot more than one leak.

On to the plumbing.

Pictures of Dometic
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Old 10-30-2010, 03:22 PM   #113
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Gauch out, tank out, floor tile out.

Got out the gaucho anmd water tank and pump assembly. All pretty clean under nd aorund there. Washed it al down anyway and found the critter that caused most of the mess, in the small floor vent (duct?) below the gaucho. Could no longer tell if it was a mouse or chipmunk, but I suspect field mouse.
Much cleaner with him and his last nest parts gone. Amazing how much "crap" one little guy can produce.
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:05 AM   #114
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Close off lp line?

I am eliminating the LP gas line to the refrigerator. What is the best way to safely close off the line? It branches off the main line just ahead of the oven connection.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:09 AM   #115
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Alan:

I got my lineoleum floor out of my 1960 yesterday. It only took about a week. Ha Ha.
I used a very high temp professional heat gun and a vibration cutting tool (harbor freight). I will use steam to get the tar up. Your fridge area looks like mine.

I visited Bulldogs car wash in Athens and visited a guy who has 10 airstreams. I got some great ideas. I am going with a Click-Clack bed for my couch bed. cut the legs off and it works like an RV bed. I found a place in Norcross that sells them for a great price.

I am enjoying your thread because i am getting some great ideas

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Old 11-01-2010, 12:10 PM   #116
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Thanks I am enjoying your thread as well.I am able to get the tile up with a metal spreader and a hammer. Almost all gone.
I plan on vinyl plank..Trafficmaster Allure. I bought some for my last trailer, and it looked great, besides being water resistant and a breeze to install.
I now have to figure out how I am going to get the frame of the gaucho out. The heads of the big phillips screws are tearing up. Might have to get a screw extractor.
We will be getting it reupholstered by the same guy in Kennesaw who did my last one.
Take care
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:12 PM   #117
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Got a "class" in veneer repair from a furniture restorer yesterday. Hope his ideas will work on the few spots that are delaminated. If not, I will replace some wood.
Someone here said the wood interior was ELM, I thought ASH originally. Turns out it is ASH, as it actually says so on the back of a few pieces.
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:08 PM   #118
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I have a furniture restorer in Loganville we have used several times. Price is great and he does great work. We are taking our stuff to him
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:40 PM   #119
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You might be interested in this metal marine recepticle. The price is right and I ordered one. compare with other dealers.

Shorepower| Adapters | Connectors and Cords for Vehicles | LDV, Inc.

check out their suburban furnaces also. I got mine for 444.00 from this company

Brian
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:56 PM   #120
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thanks, the restorer in Roswell is a friend for over 25 yrs. He has done some serious projects.. Thanks for the link I will check that out.
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