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Old 09-16-2010, 03:36 PM   #61
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thanks I will check it out for sure. These doors are actually glowing.
I got two 3/8" x 3/8" flare needle valves coming.
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:06 PM   #62
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Wood I?

been working ahead of my plan, instead of waiting for the cooler days, I have been plowing ahead on refininshing the wood interior while doing the other small repairs on the "side".
Got the tanks sanded and repainted. Tested the toilet and holding tank with a 5 gallon water bucket. It worked well...was told by the p.o. that it leaked, happily not.

Got a lot of the wood cabinet doors and trim stained and oil finished - quite happy with the result so far. When I started the wood had little stenciled white leaves all over. Thankfully they are gone now.
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:47 AM   #63
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Refrigerator andTailghts are the next problems

-After having the trailer plugged in all day yesterday I noticed the old Dometic was not getting cold. I couldn't find the swicthes for it, so I assumed there aren't any? But after reading posts here on Dometics from the 60s I downloaded the manual and will see what I can do with it later this week.

-Also found out why the taillights don't work... basically there aren't any
I pulled the rusty screws off the lenses, and the underneath lamp assemblies were so rusted there was hardly anything left.
Guess I will try the led replacments. They are the 7" or so round style.

Moving right along....
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:46 PM   #64
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Looks like my #1 option is to burp the Dometic. Since it seems quite a job to get it out, I will hold off on that for a little while.

My tires are here and I will get them mounted and try to finish repairing the 2 plumbing leaks. Though I had the front one done, new valves all in, but it leaked from where the garden hose type connection goes into the tank. Will know tomorrow if I have that part done.
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:19 PM   #65
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Plumbing is toast

I did get the front leak fixed. Added water to the tank, then ran the pump. Guess what happened next?
Yup another leak, this one in the living area near the kitchen counters.

So I guess it is time to consider all new PEX. With the leak at the back and now this other one, I am going to plan on the redo.
It may mean no camping over Winter break, but maybe I can get it done before....maybe
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:03 PM   #66
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Think twice

Alan,

I know many will send arrows my way for this but don't waste your time putting all new plumbing in that thing.

Get some small pipe cutters, buy the correct size nylon braided drinking hose, 4 hose clamps (two each side) cut out the bad spot where the pipe split from freezing and patch it with the hose/clamps. It will take 15 minutes and you'll never have to worry about it again!

Spend the time enjoying the trailer not fixing it.

When you're on your death bed will you care about the fact is has new plumbing or be glad you spent time camping with the family?
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:12 AM   #67
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well Paul funny you said that I sorta was thinking the same thing...but then felt like I should rip out all the old. With limited time though I might just do that. ...thanks again for some objectivity.
Let;s hope we both have lots of camping years ahead of us.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:53 PM   #68
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You'll never know

Trust me, as the toilet is flushing and the shower is spraying, you'll never know the difference.

The only person that will ever know will be you.
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:17 PM   #69
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...and every forum member you meet...
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:35 PM   #70
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Yikes, and I have a forums rally comng up in 4 weeks
Any suggestions for cutting the copper when you can't get to the whole tube ( against the wall for example)
I used a small cut off wheel on the dremel, but it was a sloppy cut. It had a 1 inch cut in the back where it must have been frozen.
Would a tubing cutter handle that?
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:48 PM   #71
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Yeh, you can get a real small one that's only a couple inches long for tight spaces. The one up against the wall you will either have to use the dremel or take the small bracket that holds it up on the wall off, so you can pull it out enough to get the cutter around the tube. Again, no big deal, just a pain.

Oh and by the way, the nylon hose doesn't care either how sloppy your cuts are.
Another reason to use the stuff.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:05 PM   #72
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If you have 3/4" clear behind it, they sell miniature pipe cutters for $5 at home stores.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:54 PM   #73
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Alan
rideair's idea is the easiest I have even used it in my house for a temp fix. You can also go with a compression fitting. Holler if you get stuck and Ill come down and sweat a new joint for you,( yes it can be done that close to a wall). Cant have the rally organizer, with no water... or maybe that is a good idea at least then i'll have company in the Ramada!!!
But you wont be really uptown till you go full pex with a manifold system.Check out some of the threads where members have done it,makes a really neat looking install, with an easy way to winterize.
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:41 AM   #74
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Thanks Kevin. I think I will do that- get the thing watered up for now, then go the the full tilt boogie later. I cut the pipe near the wall, like I said sloppy but done. Now I will need to cut out the one in the back, and hope I don't find any more leaks after that.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:04 AM   #75
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Yeh for me I've always looked at it this way. I have three different Airstreams that I use to camp (1966 Overlander, 1966 Safari, 1970 Safari). If I'm lucky and get to use each one three times a year, that's nine outings. Doing a total plumbing redo for something that is slept in a total of 18-24 times is just not worth the time/money and energy it takes to do it.

Now if I was a fulltimer, thats a different story.
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:45 AM   #76
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True- I tend to sometimes plan a little overboard, trying to do too much. For this 66, I want to bring the beauty and usefulness of it back, and then really enjoy it.
I did that with my 80 and it was great fun for a couple of years..until our needs changed and we decided to go smaller and older.
I will pick up the tubing today, and get it on from there. Tomorrow I expect to get the tires done. Gotta get the jack and stands going and take the wheels in to a shop nearby.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:12 AM   #77
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Had a tough time cutting the copper, as its location makes it inaccessible for a saw. Tried my rotary with a reinforced blade and made better progress. Hope to have the 2 rear leaks sealed in a day or so. The small tubing cutters I found di not look like they would get it done. As long as it works I don't care.

- One thing I noticed, my trailer has the wedding cake tail lights- which are shot totally.
But most every 66 and on I see has the surrounded dual rear lights. Maybe mine were swapped out at some point...hard to tell as they look original.
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Old 09-28-2010, 11:22 AM   #78
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Tail lights Correct

Alan,

The tail lights are correct. What you have is the "standard" model Overlander. The "International" model had the different tail lights along with many other features including the type of wood you have. I have a 1966 Overlander "International" model which has the upgraded wood, taillights, 12v outlets (bath/kitchen) water filter, etc....

My 1966 Safari, has the same wood as yours, tail lights, no 12v outlets, etc... I have the 1966 sales info at home that will tell you all the things that are different between the two.
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Old 09-28-2010, 11:57 AM   #79
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66 Brochure

Paul

I have a 66 Tradwind and I love it. I sure would like to see a brochure on this model. Any chance that you could take pictures of the brochure or scan it and put it on line. I have had good look taking pictures of documents with my digital camera using the macro mode and then putting them on line using Picasa 3.

Thanks, Dan
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:16 AM   #80
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thanks Paul, that explains the lack of ac outlets too, There are few.
So what was the upgraded wood? Mahogany?
Do your have set ups for two batteries? mine has tray at the rear access door and one in the side.
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