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Old 09-12-2010, 10:56 AM   #41
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a Plumbing question

what are these two valve type things? One is leaking and though I tightened the screw in on top it still drips, and will need replacement. They have a rubber insert that screws down into the pipe.
Are they some kind of relief valve? Do I need them?
Also where is the drain for the water tank. I see the tube poking uner the trailer in front but not sure what to open to drain it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:55 PM   #42
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The one I see going through the floor looks like the drain for the fresh water tank,the other is probably the valve you shut off when you are connected to city water, both appear to have the handles broken off which is probably why they leak.Looks like a standard flair fitting so easy fix. Is you old p&r pump still working?
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:12 AM   #43
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Yes pump works. These things have a small key which fits on top to turn. Water comes out the top of one of them. DO I replace with a different type valve? I was thinking I could use a short pex install here. Never done any copper work, only plastic pipe in the past.
My leak at the back is pretty straight forward, a cracked long pipe. ( or a long crack pipe)
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:27 AM   #44
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Alan

Congradulations on your 66 Overlander. We have a 66 TW and love it.

Two out of the three rear hinges are missing on the rear bumper cover and I also could not find proper hinge replacements. My plan is to replace with a stainless steel piano hinge. I am going to buy the blank hinge so I can drill the holes where I want them. Here is the link for the supplier:

Stainless Steel Continuous Piano Hinges available in various sizes and thickness. Constructed from type 304 stainless steel with 18-8 alloy for marine durability.

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Old 09-13-2010, 10:46 AM   #45
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I used two hinges from HomeDepot that work ok, but they are a little on the thick side. However if I buy the camlock that goes at each end, they may be fine until I get around to replacing them.
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:49 AM   #46
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waterlines look familiar

Congrats on your '66 - looking forward to seeing the evolution!
Although the handles were intact, the valves on mine were leaking too. I used Flair-It fittings & .5" PEX (following Uwe's advice as discovered in an earlier thread). I purchased the fittings on-line at iPlumb.tv
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:12 PM   #47
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Alan
mine had a lever that you turned to shut it off, but in any event that is just a small brass shut off valve. I would unscrew the copper ends, and take the valve to a plbg supply house and see if you can get one the same length than you can simply thread it back on. If that is a no go than you might want to go the pex route.
Kevin
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:54 PM   #48
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Thanks guy. I will look again at the options here. Gotta get it done!
Meanwhile I stripped the two doors with a mild stripper, the cleaned up well and have great grain in a nice light blonde shade.
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:18 PM   #49
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I spent last weekend in the morning getting the tongue, step and rear bumper area cleaned up and redone. I did wire brushing, then priming and then painting. Simple work but makes such a difference on the old rig.
looks very nice. I have stripped mine and am ready to paint. What did you use for primer and paint?
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:13 PM   #50
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I primed with grey automotive primer, after sanding with the wire brush on my drill and some emery. Then two coats of rustoleum aluminum, one with a brush, topped with spray.
It looks so much better, and I thankful the rust was only surface and pretty light.
The tanks are giving me a hard time because the hoses are stuck on there. I want to pull them off to refinish them next. Been hitting them with penetrating oil on the threads, but gonna get some rust buster tonight.


I was able to squeeze two wrenches in and pull out the whole front assembly that was leaking. I am taking it to the store to see what we can put together.Then I will tackle the back leak.
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:42 PM   #51
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I primed with grey automotive primer, after sanding with the wire brush on my drill and some emery. Then two coats of rustoleum aluminum, .
Thanks. I had in mind using rustoleum but read elsewhere that POR-15 is a good product but it requires a clearcoat for UV protection.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:10 AM   #52
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I used Rustoleum on all 4 of my project Airstreams, it held up well. I used the heavy rust stop type on the rear frame, and it did a good job, POR15 is a better product but extremely messy and not inexpensive.
I think the prep makes a big difference, if you judiciously clean the area, use a good base primer, it will turn out well.

I applied English Chestnut stain to a couple of my kitchen doors last night after they were cleaned and light sanded. They look really nice. Good grain showing through with a golden hue. I will try some teak oil next to see how it works over the stain, then if all is ok, I can move on to my other wood areas. Love that wood!
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:05 AM   #53
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Alan,

The one close to the pump is the fresh water tank drain valve. The one close to the water filter can be used to "back fill" the fresh water tank while you are hooked up to city water.
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:27 AM   #54
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so the one used to back fill, needs to be closed when you are hooked to city water? If so I bought the wrong thing last night, and was going to use a union there instead of a valve.
I thought there was a check valve in the system that prevented city water fmo flowing into the water tank?
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:25 PM   #55
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Alan,

If you follow the pipe past the back fill valve going towards the back of the trailer at the same time following the pipe going off the water pump towards the back of the trailer, you will find they come together forming a "Y" with the lower leg going to the back of the trailer for water supply from the pump. If you want to take it out (the back fill valve), thats fine. "BUT" you will have to cap the end where the valve currently is located or when ever you run the pump or are connected to city water you are going to have a flood. If you cap it, your pump "should" act as a check valve to keep water from filling the fresh water tank when connected to city water as it already does.

The purpose of this configuration was to allow someone to fill their fresh water tank when they were connected to the city water connection in the back of the trailer without having to disconnect and then take the hose to the front of the trailer, unscrew the cap and fill the water tank from the water inlet behind the propane tanks.

Yes, the backfill needs to be closed while connected to city water in the current configuration.

On the 1966, there is a check valve back in the back at the "city connection" to keep water from going out that way when using the water pump.

One other thing, you could remove the "Y" and use a straight pipe right off the pump. Couple of ways to do it, just depends what you want to do and how you want to use the trailer.

Hope this helps
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:01 PM   #56
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Alan,


On the 1966, there is a check valve back in the back at the "city connection" to keep water from going out that way when using the water pump.

Hope this helps
Paul.

The original factory hookup for the water system on the 60's and 70 models, was that if you wanted water in the water tank, you had to place a water hose into the filler neck that was mounted on the front or on the side of the trailer.

Two water check valves were indeed used.

The one at the rear stopped water from flowing out of the city water inlet, when the water pump was used.

The second check valve, was mounted near the water pump, to keep city water pressure off of the valves in the water pump, when the trailer was hooked up to city water. The pump was in the rear on the older trailers and then under the gally cabinet in the 70 models.

Of course in time, who knows how a previous owner may have or have not modified the original water system.

The auto fill systems came into use many years later.

Andy
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:09 AM   #57
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-well now that I know ( thanks you guys) I am getting a new 3/8 flare valve to put in there. No big deal just not easy to get locally...

-On the refinishing side, I have two under the sink doors done, and the wood looks delicious.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:10 AM   #58
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Next Question

Hey I feel like a newbie with all these questions!

The two large cupboard doors in the kitchen, can these be removed?
I tried lifting up and out but did not get anywhere.
I have gotten off all the hinged doors and refinshed most so far.

This is a fun one, I look forward to getting her back up to beauty.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:21 AM   #59
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Alan,

When I get home I'll check my doors to see if I can help.

Glad to see you are just replacing the valve on the refill connection.
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:26 PM   #60
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Gotta take it off

Alan,

The only why I can see to get the sliding doors out is to take the end panel off the wall. Should be a few screws and thats it.
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