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Old 08-26-2012, 05:20 PM   #301
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1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
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Oven

Oven in our66 looks to be in great shape. But I can't get the pilot
To light. What position should the valve on the under trailer gas
Line be in to be open? I dont smell any gas when I turn the pilot knob on
Stove works 100%
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:36 PM   #302
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Counter-clockwise, I think, should be the open position, just like the hose-bib on the side of your house. If you have one of those valves that only turns 90 degrees, the handle should line up in-line with the actual gas line. 90 degrees out of line would mean it's closed.

Does that make sense?

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Old 08-28-2012, 05:48 PM   #303
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Yes...should I unscrew it and run some air through? Not getting a lighted pilot.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:40 PM   #304
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My '63 has a pilot light shut off...look for the small aluminum tube that comes from the oven, see if there is a small screw at 90 degrees where it goes into the control.

The hole in the pilot light that allows the gas to escape is about the size of a hair. Mine was corroded closed and I had to get another one.
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:35 AM   #305
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Fixed it. Cleaned all the parts outside using solvent, Dried them for a day and blew out with compressed air. Lit the pilot and the burner came right on when I dialed up the temp to 300.
Nice blue flame. Ready to bake. Glad that works.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:25 PM   #306
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New question..light switch?

On the kitchen wall next to the large sliding cabinet over the refrig. There is a switch plate. I has a larger pair of wires connected than a 12v light would need. What could it I be for? A refrig control for the old dometic?
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:17 PM   #307
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Never mind,,its the old water pump switch.

Meanwhile I bought a 1966 Trailer license Plate from Ohio. Should look very cool on the Ohio built Overlander.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:14 AM   #308
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Leak fixed...not

The trailer had a leak ( imagine that!) for a long time while it sat unused. It dripped water down the black vent pipe over the bed and behind the kitchen area.
I tried sealing the old vent cap, but it did not help.

Ordered and installed a new mushroom type cap, cleaned the whole area and sealed beneath and around the vent well. Even shot some flex seal up around the opening from the inside.
Looked like a plan.

First big time rain storm yesterday with a lot of wind and the pipe had water on it again. Not a lot, but enough to hold me back on the next job- replacing the veneer below it that has water damage.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:51 PM   #309
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TANKS to the Guys

Thanks to a few of the guys here, notably KayakKampers, KevinB, and Overlander62 - Frank..

I was able to finally get out the infamous galvanized box that surrounds the black tank. Now I need to get one fabbed up so I can put it back in.

A nasty three or four day job of drilling rivets, pulling out old rusted bolts and finally getting the box to drop out.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #310
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Believe it or not Alan, ours was worse! By the looks of the mounting screws, I would double, at least, the number of them on the new tanks. Chris
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:00 PM   #311
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I plan on using a lot. At least the box was intact enuf to allow measuring.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:20 PM   #312
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Black water "Tanks" for all your help

Hi Allan: I too have a '66 Overlander Twin. I'm interested in knowing what made you venture into changing it out. Iv'e thought about doing mine and at the same time adding a gray water tank also. Any advise would be appreciated.

Jean b
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:38 AM   #313
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I had to change it out as it was badly corroded as most of them are. It was not holding up the tank anymore by much...
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:04 PM   #314
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The galvanized pan is finally installed. I painted it inside with Flex seal. Outside with black rustoleum. Took about 70 3/4" # 10 screws. I had a hard time finding short fatter screws, wanted #12, went to 4 stores, settled for 10. Needed 3/4 with the 5/8 floor and the thickness of the sheet metal.
Hopefully it will stay where it is. Forgot to take a pic when it was open.
Reinstalled the bumper trunk, now have to do the belly pan. May need to get some sheet aluminum for patches.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:53 AM   #315
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Alan: I really enjoy your blog--a wealth of info-thanks.
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:49 AM   #316
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That's great Alan. Holy cow! 70 screws! I don't think you have to worry about it falling out! Nothing wrong with too many, it should give you peace of mind. My new tank stays very dry as I spent a long time sealing the seams at the back of the trailer, above around and near the back. When I open the rear door ( where the toilet, battery, etc is ) the floor is nice and dry after big rains. Of course under the storage hatch at the bumper gets wet, but drains well. Ideally, the aluminum skin will allow any water in to escape out. Can't wait to see it finished.
Chris
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:40 AM   #317
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I shouldn't say this--- but I also spotted each screw with wood glue. I expect 50 years from now someone will not like that..
I do have a small spot of wood rot at the very back edge of the trailer- where the access panel was open for awhile. Since it is sealed it no longer leaks. I have coated tha area in wood hardener and such to keep it from getting worse.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:12 AM   #318
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Photo Shoot

A big thanks for a referral from a member here- my Overlander spent the day in a photo shoot at Stone Mountain campground.
A beautiful day and it was good to see the Airstream have her moment in the Sun!
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:15 AM   #319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
A big thanks for a referral from a member here- my Overlander spent the day in a photo shoot at Stone Mountain campground.
A beautiful day and it was good to see the Airstream have her moment in the Sun!
That is so awesome! Great picture. Welcome to stardom!
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:47 PM   #320
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So what publication is that going to appear in? I'll go buy several copies so I can brag about my friends with the famous Airstream.

Jim
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