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Old 12-25-2010, 04:15 AM   #181
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Tybee Island by Savannah Ga. My wife and I checked it out when we were in Savannah. I would like to camp there. I have to get the trailer restored first. Odds are it won't happen anytime soon. My job is pretty demanding and I just can't take off work. The other place I would like to camp is the Okeefenokee swamp. I will make it someday.

Merry Christmas

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Old 12-25-2010, 06:33 AM   #182
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Any tips on removing the over the bed storage bin? I need to reskin the bottom where it had some water damage. It seems to be screwed in through the kitchen wall on one side. Not sure about the other side.
I'm not sure about yours, but I noted that on my '63, all of the assembly was done from the rear to the front...screws fit that same sequence. The over bed cabinets were bolted up to the ceiling, to the wall below a false floor in the cabinet and bolted from the closet in the back. I don't recall any bolts from the kitchen side...
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:42 AM   #183
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I know tybee island well. Just a few miles away. Friends live there, and we kayak there as often as possible. I thought there may be an AS gathering. Regarding work I know what ya mean. My goal is also april and you've got a big head start.

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Tybee Island by Savannah Ga. My wife and I checked it out when we were in Savannah. I would like to camp there. I have to get the trailer restored first. Odds are it won't happen anytime soon. My job is pretty demanding and I just can't take off work. The other place I would like to camp is the Okeefenokee swamp. I will make it someday.

Merry Christmas

Brian
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Old 12-25-2010, 04:38 PM   #184
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I'm not sure about yours, but I noted that on my '63, all of the assembly was done from the rear to the front...screws fit that same sequence. The over bed cabinets were bolted up to the ceiling, to the wall below a false floor in the cabinet and bolted from the closet in the back. I don't recall any bolts from the kitchen side...
Thanks i will check that out.
Anyone who is nearby should join us at Hiawassee April 8th weekend for "Springstream". We need more 60s Airstreams!
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Old 12-25-2010, 06:17 PM   #185
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scored a pair of Worthington 30# Aluminum LP tanks today. They are in super shape. Needing opd valves, but I can get those.
Great find on CL, and the seller met us right off the highway on our way to Tampa. A good day and it's 70 degrees here!
Hey Alan
merry christmas!
Dont know where youre getting the valves but Blossman propane out of cartersville (also have office in canton) did a pair for me for 100.00 and that includes filling them w/propane!
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:58 AM   #186
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Great Kevin thanks. That would be a deal.I found the valves at OODmart for 30 each
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:27 AM   #187
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Alan:

I don't know if you plan on heading through Illinois anytime soon, but I got mine done in Carbondale Illinois ( near I-57). They had the valves, and propane. It took them about 30 minutes. I know it is far away but if you get desperate, and have time. I could probably get them done for you when I head up there in the Spring. I don't remember how much it cost me. Dropped the tanks, went and got lunch, came back and they were finished.

Brian
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Old 12-27-2010, 08:00 AM   #188
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Thanks - I think I am going to call the place in Cartersville KevinB mentioned.
If I get that done and the plumbing I can go camping!
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:51 AM   #189
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I got out my kitchen faucet and plumbing, started on the bathroom, removed the screws below the sink, but cannot figure out where the back is held on.
There is a small hole where the two pipes go thru in the area of the rear access door, but no way I could get a wrench in there to unscrew the faucet. I don't need to remove the sink and tub, would like to get the sink out only.
Help?
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:11 PM   #190
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Alan

I think there is a piece of wood on the wall behind the sink. check to see if there is a screw on the top of the counter under the aluminum molding. I had this exact problem with my galley.

See if any screws are toed into the floor. My son took our bathroom vanity out. So I am not sure.

Brian
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:20 PM   #191
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Will do, I will look further. Seems like there are three pretty rusted screws behind the sink area...still checking
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Old 01-03-2011, 03:40 PM   #192
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I had to remove the whole tub/sink assembly from the shell, then drill out the rivets holding the sink to the tub, from behind- because it wouldn't fit out the door, otherwise.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:13 PM   #193
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I don't need to take out the whole unit just the sink -- actually just the faucet.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:19 PM   #194
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Alan:

I took out my galley yesterday and I was looking at my faucet. It is not really smooth. It looks a little rough. Do yours look like that? I want to keep all my faucets. We are trying to keep it original.

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Old 01-04-2011, 07:37 AM   #195
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Alan

I have not taken out the bathroom sink faucet yet, but I plan to. I did remove the kitchen faucet, and as I recall I did most of the work from the top. As I recall the main tool used ended up being a reciprosaw. There is limited acess from below to get to the bathroom faucet, but I think it may be possible to get to it from the bottom using a socket with a long extension. If not I would do it from the top using a reciprosaw and whatever other tool that may be required.

My plan is to refurbish the sink and replace the faucet. Anybody have a source for a high quality (brass) small bathroom faucet?

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Old 01-05-2011, 11:27 AM   #196
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Alan

I have taken a detailed look at my bathroom sink top and I think I know how to remove it and reinstall it in order to replace the sink faucet, the shower faucet and the sink drain. I took some pictures and I will try to load these. I am convinced that the sink top needs to be removed to replace the faucets and intall new pex lines. The only thing holding the sink top in place are the plumbing connections (copper supply lines and plastic drain line) and the flange that mates to the rear wall. This flange is pop rivited to the rear wall. After the plumbing connections are severed just use a sharp thin stiff putty knife to cut through the pop rivits securing the flange to the back wall. I think there only may be about 3 or 4 rivits. The trick will be securing the sink top to the back wall without using and rivits. I don't think this will be a problem. I will rivit a small aluminum threshold to the back wall and the sink top flange will just rest in and be supported by this bracket. Construction adhesive can be used to join the two together. I plan to refinish the sink top with it off and install a new drain flange along with new faucets. I am currently planning on going with some brass washerless quality vintage faucets from VTS.

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Old 01-05-2011, 11:49 AM   #197
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Just adding photos to the above post.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:22 PM   #198
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My kitchen and bath faucet are really badly corroded. I found two nice 4" spread faucets on Ebay.
I took out screws holding the front of the bath sink down, and it loosened up, but the back is tight. I will check the wall, seems like there are screws underneath accessible from the access door outside. I might have to cut these as they are rusty.
The sink in the kitchen, I took out the faucet by unscrewing the lines underneath and the two big nuts on the faucet. Pretty easy, just hard to get your head in the cabinet.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:58 PM   #199
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I am going to see about getting my faucets powder coated. Were trying to keep everything the same.

I am jealous. I am back at work. I leave it is dark and when I get home it is dark. I only have the weekends weather permitting.

Brian
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:53 PM   #200
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me too. I do get home earlier, but I work out before hitting the AS stuff. Gotta get the plumbing out in the next week or so to keep on schedule --Springstream is not that far off. Gotta get the upholstery done too.
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