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Old 08-04-2014, 03:06 PM   #1
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1967 26' Overlander
gilbert , South Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 2
Smile Gaskets for '67 curved "CORNING" windows

Hello All,
Just started to help restore my daughter's a 20 ft 1967 AS Overlander. My first priority is to seal up the outside to fix any leaks. After some recent rains, I only notice some water in two window sills. All the gaskets around the windows are deteriorated. May not be the original gasket, but it's white, about 5/8" to 11/16" wide, & 3/16" thick; looks like 2 side by side double "D" with 2 little air pockets in the gasket. I would appreciate any advice about replacement gasket (white or black?) I saw some with adhesive backing? or should I use a special adhesive?

I am looking for any other water leak sources; loose rivets, skin separations, vents not sealed, running lights, etc. Overall it looks real good, but outside patches around vents are suspect. I see some old water damage on plywood wall at bathroom wall, just under a roof vent where two rivets are missing that attach the top cover to the crank down. There was duct tape on the outside which must have stopped the leak. I will put new rivets in there.

I will be replacing all the inside gaskets on the crank up roof vents. So I welcome any advice as to proper gasket and methods, adhesives etc.

Thanks,
Charles T.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:24 PM   #2
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
I had to replace all the gaskets and glass on my 68 Trade Wind. I used the D-style which i got from Inland RV, IIRC. Steve at VTS as the flat style gasket-http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/1966_68_Airstream_Window_Seal_p/vts-524.htm I founded that the best way to prepare the surface for the new gasket after you remove the old one is a Scotch-brite bob on a dremel tool. You can by them at HD or Lowe's. I tried solvents and scraping but the Dremel worked much better than anything else. Buy several packs of the bobs because the don't last long if the old glue is really gunked on. Wear a dusd mask while you do it. Once the surface is nice and clean, give it a once over with a rag with some laquer thinner to remove any dust or oil. I found that with the window frame surface prepared this way I only needed a little dab of weathertrip adhesive in the bottom corners as the peel off adhesive on the gaskets stuck just fine (no problem in 5 years of any coming loose).Take time with the bottom corners and get a tight fit as it is a spot that can leak.
I had lots of other leaks too. The 3 plumbing vent stacks, fridge vent and seams along both endcaps were problems on my old 68.
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