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Old 11-10-2018, 03:34 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
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Damage

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Old 11-10-2018, 08:51 PM   #2
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Picture does not show in my phone app...
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkemom View Post

Welcome to the forum Dkemom!

Nothing showing for me either. Make sure you go to "Additional Options", "Attach Files", then "Browse Files" & "Upload".


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Old 11-11-2018, 07:00 AM   #4
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1968 26' Overlander
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Sorry guys, haven't figured out the logistics of posting the pic yet.


Hi all, glad to be here....finally. A dream to own an AS that started as a kid but then.........well, life.


Short story is I got my hands on a tree damaged 68 Overlander that had already been updated....plumbing, new toilet, water tank , water heater, new cabinets, refrig., bunk, surround sound, antenna, AC and so forth.


All that is great. Tires good. No rust anywhere I have seen. Pulled down the road like pulling a stick of butter on a warm skillet. Lights all work. BUT...there's the good sized tree dent, small hole on the road side 3/4 of the way down right before the bathroom.


I'm in NC and need someone to give me advice as I am a total novice except for reading, reading, reading about this sort of damage. Looks like one rib is bent but I feel it can be straightened. Window from is ok but may replace just to be on the no leak safe side.


How do I upload a pic.?


Thanks for the welcome and at 60 I can't do a backflip but would over this find. Money is sort of an issue but I got it for 1500 so am willing to spend a little on it.
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Old 11-11-2018, 07:08 AM   #5
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1968 26' Overlander
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Trying again w/ pics.
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Old 11-11-2018, 07:10 AM   #6
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Wow....I figured it out....so here's a few more.
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Old 11-11-2018, 07:12 AM   #7
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I need better ones, I think.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:56 AM   #8
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Damage

Youíre going to need to be handy and resourceful to get that all closed up for $1,500.

It can be fixed, but itís going to take some work.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:52 AM   #9
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No, sorry, I PAID 1500 for it.


So I know I'm looking at more to repair. I'm looking more for some recommendations for someone to do it in my area. Most everyone here seems to be mid to west coast.


I had a guy but he's not able to get to it now due to health issues. I know I can't do this...I want it done right.


Meg
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:07 AM   #10
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Hi

If you are going to pay somebody to do the work, you can easily get into the 10's of thousands of dollars range. There also is the issue that the number of people you should trust to do this kind of work are not exactly all over the place.

So - is a (say) $30,000 tab to do this inside your budget? That's a random number rather than an estimate. The only way to get an exact number is to do a deep dive into the whole trailer. Things like the floor and frame need to be very carefully looked at. On a trailer this old, "assuming" they are ok is *not* a good idea.

Often getting a full examination involves taking off panels in order to actually see whats what. (= you don't really know everything until you tear into it). Once you tear into this and that, you go from the "involved" stage into the "committed" part of the process.

Out of Doors Mart is a dealer in your area. I have no idea if they do this kind of thing or not. If they do, I'm sure they do a terrific job. If this is not their kind of thing, I'd bet they know if anybody local would take the job on.

Bob
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:10 AM   #11
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Not so bad.......

Just for a better idea....since I only showed her (no name yet as I'm not going to get attached until she's whole) bad side, I decide best to show WHY I bought her will damage.....
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:01 AM   #12
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Hi

Let me ask this a different way:

How much inspection / dig into have you done on the floor and frame? Floor rot due to water intrusion is very common on older trailers. Rust (to the extent of reducing safety) on the frame is also not unheard of. Both can be an expensive fix when jobbed out.

I am in no way suggesting that fixing up the trailer is a bad idea. Far from it. Done properly, this can turn into a great trailer for you. It can do so at a price way below the $80K that a new one would cost.

My only concern is that I have seen a number of friends dive into these sort of projects and run out of funds (or time). They now have a disassembled RV / boat / classic car / kitchen and no practical way forward .... This can be somewhat less scary on a DIY project where it goes from a couple months to a couple years. With a "pay to get it done" ... it's all about money.

Bob
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:58 PM   #13
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Cool

Actually just looking for referral for repair.



I didn't just fall off the turnip truck and did not buy a rusted bucket of poo.
This was on the road as recently as June. I said it drove down the road like butter so obviously it's not bottoming out and I had it up to 60 mph.
I have it down to subfloor and have found on one soft spot..2 in by 2in by the door.


I really didn't need the mansplaining about the cost of the redo as I have no intention of making it a SHOWBOAT......just want to get me down the road one more time before I die........so let's just say, I'll figure it out.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:19 PM   #14
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Iíd fix it for you but Iím a long way away from NC and about to be a thousand miles further.

The problem youíre up against is that a typical shop is going to want to replace all of the damaged parts and thatís a big deal.

That mess could be mostly pushed out if a person is creative and willing to buck conventionality while knowing up front that the results will never be perfect.

I could do a lot with a porta power and like tools and methods....
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:02 AM   #15
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1968 26' Overlander
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Now that's what I like to hear. It is unfortunate that you are so far away and about to be further. I have had some folks look at it who are handy.....24 years of running a fraternity house gets you a lot of repairmen who put stuff back together. They feel it can be repaired w.o replacing all the aluminum.


The rivet thing is an issue as we need a certain tool for that. I would rather hire someone with this experience. But there doesn't seem to be a YOU anywhere around my area.



At this point I want to get her dried in so I can start some repair on the inside. I appreciate your common sense candor and realizing there is something to be said for just a "normal" trailer. It she has a few dings in her, we'll have more in common.
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:37 AM   #16
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Dkemom
I am near you just off the old Greensboro-Chapel Hill rd. near Kimesville. You have a daunting job ahead of you. I just completely refurbed a 1970 Overlander. Make friends with the folks at Out of Doors Mart in Colfax. OODM is an authorized Airstream dealer and shop. These folks are going to be a great resource for you. Their shop is going to be the only one in our area that can handle that amount of damage.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkemom View Post
Actually just looking for referral for repair.



I didn't just fall off the turnip truck and did not buy a rusted bucket of poo.
This was on the road as recently as June. I said it drove down the road like butter so obviously it's not bottoming out and I had it up to 60 mph.
I have it down to subfloor and have found on one soft spot..2 in by 2in by the door.


I really didn't need the mansplaining about the cost of the redo as I have no intention of making it a SHOWBOAT......just want to get me down the road one more time before I die........so let's just say, I'll figure it out.

Hi

Ok, you now have several of suggesting you get in touch with Out of Doors Mart.

Bob
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Old 11-15-2018, 03:09 PM   #18
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To bad you don't live in Colorado, I'm retiring this spring and this would be right up my alley. I would not worry about the interior repairs at this time as most of the interior will need to be removed for the exterior repairs, if you what it repaired correctly with the complete damaged skins replaced.
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Old 11-15-2018, 04:00 PM   #19
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Hello to a fellow Tar Heel. I suggest you give Capitol City Custom in Raleigh a call. He's good, busy but good. ODM is good too but CCC is more of a custom shop and might be a little cheaper on the $/hour rate. In any case, there are a lot of AS owners in your area and a really good WBCCI Unit in the Piedmont ( in the interest of full disclosure, I'm the VP) So pick out brains!
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:18 PM   #20
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As aerowood said leave the interior till don . I would re skin the outside and go from there . Probably cheaper than metal finishing it . Find a good aircraft sheetmetal man . Good luck . Blue
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