This all started sometime last year when I began to study the AS document archive for a trailer that would be better suited towards longer travel with our 2 dogs. We've been out in the Caravel for something around 50 individual trips, so we are getting a pretty good idea of things that would make longer outings more enjoyable. The first is good tank capacity. When we leave our house, the only restroom we use is the one we bring with us. standing in other peoples pee is not something we like to do. The second is a full time bed. Right now, when we make the bed we can't get in the fridge or get get ice. The third is enough space we can stash the dogs out of the way for meals with out them being underfoot. There are others, but I will leave it there for now.
I was fortunate to get a tour of Lynn's beautifully restored 60's Overlander and Mike and MJ's restomod 60's Overlander. Both were very inspiring. That pretty much sealed the deal and the hunt was on for a 60's Overlander.
About a month ago my craigslist search came up with a reasonably priced 1968 Overlander International that had been in a accident. The vista view windows caught my eye. The The damage looked like a pretty straight forward fix and I told my wife I thought maybe we should go get it. Then the owner dropped the price 25% and noted that he added new tires and wheels 2 years ago. We gave him a call and made a deal.
Thanks Bubba, I am really looking forward to this. This is going to be a slow burn. The next year is just going to be planning while other projects are finished up.
This is trailer was 800 miles away. We drove across 2 states on Friday. Saturday we stopped in Coldwater MI (name appropriate, snow and ice) to fuel up before picking it up. It was snowing when we got to Horton too. So getting things secured and on the road asap was the goal. The wife taped up windows and I secured the inside. The PO had taped some up with duct tape. That stuff never fails to not impress me. It always fails and it always leaves the residue behind. I use aluminum tape duct tape. It is not strong but it holds well. I thought all the 60 trailer used a 2" ball, well not this one. I broght a larger ball but it would not work with my bluox, I did not relize when packing. So towing it on the ball was the only option. I checked the hatches, removed some improvised electric cord, checked the belly pan and we hit the road in about an hour after arrival. The snow was falling the whole time. The first gas stop we found the rear plastic window flapping. The truck stop had some flexseal tape. That was the end of that problem. The PO said he had some stick on lights for it. He did, they just didn't work, well one did. So Sunday morning I pulled my set out only to realize I was feet short. I cut up the not working wireless setup he had to scavenge some more length for the 4pin. IT was so cold the zip ties were cracking while trying to secure the wire and lights. I was missing the mild Ozark weather pretty bad at this point. We made a few turns and all seemed ok. The air hoses I have for my OBA are setup for my short trailer, were to short. I could have aired them up, but I would have had to unhook. Another lesson learned. I stopped at a gas station, out of order. I stopped at another, chevy cruz with busted tire, probably some oblivious person drove on it at 70 for miles was blocking the air and no sign of the owner. I got close enough and topped up It is still freezing, maybe 20 degrees.
At the next fuel stop my wife goes to the back to check and I hear some drama. The battery had bounced around enough on the terrible roads in Indy that it popped the rear hatch out and it was riding on the bumper attached by two wires. That will be a $200 mistake and a weekend to rebuild, sans the og handle. To bad.
Just outside of STL I look in the mirror and the 4 pin is dragging along. I pull over at a gas station and it was shredded. There was nothing to do but clip it off. Another lesson learned. We are pushing to beat the night now, so I decided we were just going to roll with it rather than spend an hour and a half finding an auto parts store that we can fit in (stl) and then making all the splices to make it long enough. We make it halfway way through STL and the terrible bumpy pothole roads and then this terrible grinding noise happens. We both look back and see this explosion of leaves and walnuts and compost come out the back of the trailer. Cars scatter behind us. Traffic was light since it was Sunday Morning. I get to the first offramp. I lay down and in the slush (I hate these north cities with a passion) and realize this is not a fix that can be done with cars speeding by me at 60mph. I pull around the corner and all the parking lots in this not great area are chained off. So the street it is. Milwaukee with carbide blade to the rescue. I cut the full width of the rear pan out. There had to be over a hundred pounds of rodent scum in the belly pan. The rough roads with the weight caused all the rivets to let loose. I dug the crap out until I was out of room and then pulled the trailer forward. That happened 4 times until it was mostly empty to the axles. Filthy work. The smell of weed lofting from the passer by. I drilled a few holes in the remaining belly pan and ziptied it together. Finally back on the road. We lost a few leaves and an occasional walnut hull at each big bump in stl, but once out of the city all was good. The trailer was pulling like a dream. I have nothing but good things to say about my truck. Fantastic., even without weight distribution and no trailer brakes. Traffic was crazy thick on the interstate coming out of stl. I mostly rolled with the truckers at about 70 and went around when I got behind one with a big load on the hills. The last fuel stop went off with out a hitch. That was a first. We hop back on the interstate and traffic is at a stand still a few miles in. I shut it down hit the rumble strip so the dude behind knows something is up sans break lights. We crawled/idled for about half an hour and then back at it. Just beat the dark home. We felt the hubs at each stop, never warm. No bearing issues.
Congrats on the '68 Overlander, we really like ours! Ours is the 5th Airstream I've done and the one I really wanted due mostly to the 1 year only front inside arrangement. Good news is that curved glass is now available again after several years without. Mine sat for 2 years as there were two other trailers ahead of it. Thought it was going to be a relatively quick one but NO, turned into the full boat. Didn't need any frame work but everything else got done. We ended up reusing the kitchen sink and the ceiling lights. Looking forward to following your progress.
Good luck, Mark D
Congrats on the '68 Overlander, we really like ours! Ours is the 5th Airstream I've done and the one I really wanted due mostly to the 1 year only front inside arrangement. Good news is that curved glass is now available again after several years without. Mine sat for 2 years as there were two other trailers ahead of it. Thought it was going to be a relatively quick one but NO, turned into the full boat. Didn't need any frame work but everything else got done. We ended up reusing the kitchen sink and the ceiling lights. Looking forward to following your progress.
Good luck, Mark D
Well we have a similar eye. The front interior endcap is super cool, especially with the vista view windows. You can definitely see the progression in the design from my 66. The texture is a bit different as well.
I am glad you brought up the windows. I asked detailed question before the deal and I was told the window by the door was plastic and the front and the back. The truth of it is the lower flat panel by the door is plastic, the back is plastic and each of the big curved windows by the beds are plastic. I should have negotiated on that front but I did not.
Do you have a recommend source for the 2 larger windows?
I recently (last 12 months) bought a new curved glass, I believe from Vintage trailer. I have not installed it yet so I can't comment on the fit or anything else. Plastic certainly works fine for temporary repairs. When I did my trailer 4-5 years ago I had to replace 4 of the windows, none of the replacements fit as well as the originals but you just have to work with it. The original glass has a compound radius while all the replacements I've seen have a single radius. There are numerous posts about these windows, how to install, seal and where to buy, several being quite excellent. But man, the trailer looks awesome with those smooth, curve hugging windows.
Good luck, Mark D
1968 was the last year of the narrow “Twinkie” body style. They’re nimble and lightweight and a solid example of all Airstream learned up ‘til then, and before Beatrice Food’s questionable influence. 1968 may be the all-time greatest year… They’re uncomplicated, and easily rebuilt.
The jet-age design of the ‘68 “double” front room is indeed unique and comfortable. In our 6 feet shorter ‘68GT (double) with no bedroom, we use the front area as a permanent lounge/bed with water tank and storage below. Agree that the front interior end-cap is unmatched in design clarity and how it flows into the curtain valance. In the former street-side gaucho area is our 2-person dinette.
I think when you get the interior removed you can better assess whether the shell needs to come off. I guess it depends on its condition, your ambition, and pocketbook. My ‘68 floor was 95% excellent 5/8” high quality void filled exterior grade (some say marine) plywood, way nicer than today’s box-store grade. Just some rear separation and a little punky wood by the door. I also didn’t remove the majority of closed-cell floor insulation as it was very intact, well adhered, and apparently unattractive to rodents. The way that the shell attaches to floor and belly pan is easier to undo than 1969-newer.
The very durable woven vinyl clad interior Alcoa walls will clean up well using modern cleansers, and appear to be a similar weave to the Boeing 707 of same era. Pure luxury...
You may have read that all 1968 Airstreamers live in constant fear of spontaneous trailer combustion. Fret not, the aluminum wiring is all 10g Kaiser and not a fire hazard in itself, it’s the switch/outlet connections that loosen and cause excessive resistance. If all wire connections are tight, it’s not a problem. You can responsibly add on as much modern copper circuitry as needed. The “univolt” must be replaced with modern converter.
As intriguing and classic as the “Central Control” panel is, it’s big and heavy, probably rusty, very obsolete, and offers no information with the accuracy of today’s trailer electrical information needs. It is mostly an ornamental 1968 sales gimmick. It’s a very empty heavy steel box with a contact-paper facade. It wouldn’t be impossible to reconfigure its internals, and print a new contact-paper facade, if you’re stuck on originality. I abandoned mine and designed my own “Del-Centro” near the door where I can reach in from outside or sit on the threshold to operate various switches and monitor/adjust charging and battery status.
On your back, looking at bellypan, somewhere forward of near/under the door steps you’ll find a removable cover that has a TV charge breaker and connection of trailer wiring to umbilical wire.
You can keep the black tank where it is. A grey tank will fit in the bay just ahead of the black tank, a little more forward than illustrated. From there, it’s easy to tap into the bathtub’s vent stack and rout the grey water discharge along street-side of the black tank and tap into its discharge or add a gate-valve. I don’t electrically monitor the black tank, cause you can step on the flush pedal and observe the tank level.. The above-floor design of fresh water tank can be visually monitored, but with just the two of us, we usually have a sense of how much water is onboard, so no electric monitor.
Definitely recommend keeping and restoring all of the original bath. 1968 called it “Penthouse” bath (The ‘64-’66 full-sized bath (not caravel) was called the “Airline”). 1968 “Penthouse” is probably the best ever designed by Airstream, and has a few nuance level improvements over the very similar appearing 1967 bath. It’s a large comfortable room, with good storage and well thought durable plastic. And you get that great pocket door.
Historical note: The ‘65-’66 Globe Trotters (two capitalized words back then) used the smaller Caravel wet-bath. The Caravel wet-bath was genius, but sadly ended with 1968 Caravel. The ‘67-’68 Globe Trotters got the “Penthouse” bath. The very different 1969 Caravel/Globe Trotter wet-bath is just plain stupid. Extra-Stupid...
The windows will be a project, but they can be rebuilt. Don’t lose the tiny little stainless steel wings at the ends of the head-rails. I’d make the front window acrylic as then it’s its own “rock-guard”.
The right rear collision damage looks repairable and won’t be complicated, just tedious. You don’t see that inside skin so if it’s a little rumpled it won’t be noticed. I don’t think that exterior 2024 t? comes clear coated. There’s marginal rear support from the outriggers. Might have to remove some bath plastic.
If you keep the International trim level walnut plywood theme it’ll be easier to find more wood, as ash (Land Yacht trim) isn’t easy to find. Once you get all the junk and debris cleaned out, you’ll have plenty of fantasy time on your “contemplation bucket”…
With your ambition and skill, you’ll be ready to “Tin Tent” in a few days.
1968 may be the all-time greatest year… They’re uncomplicated, and easily rebuilt.
I think when you get the interior removed you can better assess whether the shell needs to come off. I guess it depends on its condition, your ambition, and pocketbook.
The very durable woven vinyl clad interior Alcoa walls will clean up well using modern cleansers, and appear to be a similar weave to the Boeing 707 of same era. Pure luxury...
You may have read that all 1968 Airstreamers live in constant fear of spontaneous trailer combustion. Fret not, the aluminum wiring is all 10g Kaiser and not a fire hazard in itself, it’s the switch/outlet connections that loosen and cause excessive resistance. If all wire connections are tight, it’s not a problem. You can responsibly add on as much modern copper circuitry as needed. The “univolt” must be replaced with modern converter.
As intriguing and classic as the “Central Control” panel is, it’s big and heavy, probably rusty, very obsolete, and offers no information with the accuracy of today’s trailer electrical information needs. It is mostly an ornamental 1968 sales gimmick. It’s a very empty heavy steel box with a contact-paper facade. It wouldn’t be impossible to reconfigure its internals, and print a new contact-paper facade, if you’re stuck on originality. I abandoned mine and designed my own “Del-Centro” near the door where I can reach in from outside or sit on the threshold to operate various switches and monitor/adjust charging and battery status.
Thanks for all the details!
This will 100% need a complete floor replacement. There are a couple of holes the rodents made that I could fit a football in(there is some sarcasm there, but you get the idea. There is very obvious rot around the wheel well. I will have more photos of the interior for you guys in the next week. I pulled my tie down straps out and got the old propane tanks out along with the 5 old tires and rims. They are quite rusty but seem sound. I would like to have a spare set. These are not split rims right?
I love the photo of the vintage airplane interior. I concur, I love the vinyl in my caravel. I hope this will clean up. Something odd is, the overheads seems to be a different color vinyl.
I hope to save some of the visually appealing aspects of the control panel. I don't plan to use any of it unless I can put some modern electronics behind.
Aluminuminum's info is great, second virtually all of it. I wanted to want the central control panel but it was worthless, not to mention the crazy amount of wire running all over the trailer. Terrible planning. Spray foam, yeah that was fun, but my frame was perfect. Search (or read) his thread, I think he presents the best window info. Look at the interior pics and notice the window shades inside the frames. I totally used that idea and put cellular shades inside the frames, they look sleek and are out of the way, good light control and surprisingly good insulation. While I do think the bath is good and very well designed ours was in such poor shape that we decided to remove it all together and now have a second bedroom in the rear. We still have a sink, toilet and shower, just not a dedicated room.
Good luck, Mark D
You can keep the black tank where it is. A grey tank will fit in the bay just ahead of the black tank, a little more forward than illustrated. From there, it’s easy to tap into the bathtub’s vent stack and rout the grey water discharge along street-side of the black tank and tap into its discharge or add a gate-valve. I don’t electrically monitor the black tank, cause you can step on the flush pedal and observe the tank level.. The above-floor design of fresh water tank can be visually monitored, but with just the two of us, we usually have a sense of how much water is onboard, so no electric monitor.
Definitely recommend keeping and restoring all of the original bath. 1968 called it “Penthouse” bath (The ‘64-’66 full-sized bath (not caravel) was called the “Airline”). 1968 “Penthouse” is probably the best ever designed by Airstream, and has a few nuance level improvements over the very similar appearing 1967 bath. It’s a large comfortable room, with good storage and well thought durable plastic. And you get that great pocket door.
Historical note: The ‘65-’66 Globe Trotters (two capitalized words back then) used the smaller Caravel wet-bath. The Caravel wet-bath was genius, but sadly ended with 1968 Caravel. The ‘67-’68 Globe Trotters got the “Penthouse” bath. The very different 1969 Caravel/Globe Trotter wet-bath is just plain stupid. Extra-Stupid...
Looking through the old spec list it only says:
Polyethelene holding tank of approximately one week capacity
What is the actual size. 1 week is the goal, but that means at least 20 gallons in our case. Currently the 11 gallon tank I put in the Caravel get's us through a long weekend when there are no available trees for me to use, but that is it. A current gen 25ft trailer has a black tank of 39 gallons.
I had no idea the bath was different between 67 and 68. I attach the layout of each for anyone following along. I will say I stood in the bathtub for a second and I think it could be usable for me. I want a shower without cocking my head. Something I can do in the caravel, with it's lovely center shower. I have been very disappointed standing in some 70s trailers having to cock my head. I am not doing that.
Spray foam, yeah that was fun, but my frame was perfect. Search (or read) his thread, I think he presents the best window info. Look at the interior pics and notice the window shades inside the frames. I totally used that idea and put cellular shades inside the frames, they look sleek and are out of the way, good light control and surprisingly good insulation.
Good luck, Mark D
I did not notice any spray foam when I was crawling around under there. I will have to get back with you guys on that.
I have been a big fan of ALUMINUMINUM's window covering solution. You will see a couple posts from me in there. Would you mind sharing a photo of the cellular shades in yours?
Aerowood glad to see you here. I love your thread. I hope that I get so see that camper in person someday.
Yes, there’s room for a 6-footer standing in the tub. A couple differences ‘67-’68 are that the ‘68 changed the molded plastic cubby behind the sink and moved the electrical outlet from behind the faucet out of the splash zone upward about 16”. The ‘68 shelf from the toilet paper door to the toilet is wider to accommodate the battery being moved into the “all in one” rear hatch area.
The wheels should be zero offset 6x15 Kelsey-Hayes non split-rim steel hopefully with six riveted-on baby moon clips. Same wheel as a Chevy half-ton of similar era. An International trim probably had full wheel covers.
To my recollection the tub starts gurgling with twenty gallons of blackwater. You can modify the Thetford black-tank flange to accept an added-on Valterra 3” gate, and use the tank for both black and grey. My tank was ABS plastic, maybe an early jackson center spec. I’ve seen the polyethylene tank and think it is stronger than ABS.
20 gallons is the same size tank VTS sells for this era trailer and what most guys seems to put in. I would really love to get 10 more gallons of black. If anyone has any thoughts on that, I would love to know.
I got the salt washed off and the first layer of gunk off the exterior. I have been inspecting the skins and they are pretty good. I also have some Olympic rivets. More on that later.
I also know this trailer was owned by Frank and Mary Huber from 72-94. I have reached out to the MI club to see if any of them know/knew them.
Here are some post cleanup photos. I am loving that vista window up there.
So, I've done this on 3 trailers now... removed all the stuff in that rear-most bay of the frame, usually the black tank (on the '76 Argosy it was a 12 gallon gray tank, black was above the floor). They waste so much space with insulation, sloping drain supports, room for plumbing etc.. Measure the space. Shop on the internet for a tank close in size. I have bought 2 of the same basic tank, 35 gallons from a seller on e-bay, I think Madison wholesale. Some mods may be needed, I've used them as a gray tank but bet you could put a toilet flange on there. We've always been more concerned about our gray capacity. After doing 6 trailers I think the first thing to figure out is what kind of bathroom experience you and your companions need to have as that will dictate most other choices in the trailer. If you need a bath with a dedicated shower and a real flush toilet those can only go in a few places and are not easily moved around. Lots to think about.
Good luck, Mark D
Aluminuminum's thread, I think he presents the best window info. Look at the interior pics and notice the window shades inside the frames. I totally used that idea and put cellular shades inside the frames, they look sleek and are out of the way, good light control and surprisingly good insulation.
Good luck, Mark D
I thought I replied to this one, can you post photos of the cellular shades? I have been a big fan of the microblinds in the caravel fro several years now. The New law has me singing the blues.
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