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Old 06-12-2012, 01:10 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
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1968 Overlander Model Specific Questions

I am the proud new owner of a 1968 Overlander in need of some answers about a few things on the trailer. Let me know if I should be asking each question in a separate thread.

1) My unit came w/o an awning. It appears to have had an awning in the past. See photos. There is the original c-shaped channel on the roof. Is this used with newer awnings? There are some brackets on the side and bottom. Are these used or useful for a modern awning?

2) There are some c-shaped channels above the wheels. Are these for some kind of sun shade for the tires?

3) I am in need of a new regulator and LP tanks. Will a new Marshall regulator bolt-up to the nice original cast aluminum regulator bracket/hold down? If not, is there some kind of adapter?

4) Frameless windows look cool, but don't seem super functional in terms of sealing and opening and closing. Has anyone upgraded to a framed window? If so, what fits, etc.

5) My "skylight" came with a piece of plywood on it. Anyone have a photo of what it is supposed to look like, or how best to upgrade it?

6) There is a screen in the belly under the fridge. Should this be converted to a vented door? Hole in the belly seems like a bad idea. Floor in this area shows some signs of water damage. I assume this is the intake for the fridge combustion air?
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:25 PM   #2
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I can help with the fridge question, yes that is the air intake. It needs to be left open so when the fridge is running that there is a source of fresh air to support combustion (when running on LP) and provide cool air. There is a fridge exhaust vent on the roof.

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Old 06-12-2012, 02:43 PM   #3
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I have a 1968 ambassador.

#1 the original was a canvas with poles that were staked out. Not sure about the brackets on the sides. I believe the new one will go in the rail you have. but they run about $2300. I just use a portable one that I can put over picnic tables.

# 2. could be a slide for a table to go in. some may have had them. not sure

#3. I put a new one on mine and it fit fine. yours should fit.

#4. Keep the frameless windows. They work so much better than the new ones, plus you can get some trim to go around them form vintage trailer supply.

#5. Which skylight. The middle one? If so you can get a new one from vintage or inland rv. I chose to go with the smoke instead of the original solid color.

#6 I wouldn't change it unless you can open and close the door manually. Open when you use the fridge close when not in use. I keep mine the way it was. If you forget to open it, you could be in big trouble.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunkroom
There are some c-shaped channels above the wheels. Are these for some kind of sun shade for the tires?
Welcome to Air Forums. The C-Channels were used for sun shades. Commonly used to help protect the tires from weather when not underway. They are often made from the same material used on the rig's awning.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:11 PM   #5
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The brackets on the sides and at the bottom rail are the remains of a Carefree curved arm awning installation. Had these on my "67. Later model brackets are different.
Take them off but don't toss them. The lowers wear out and those don't look to bad. Someone is always looking for good used parts.

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Old 06-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #6
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Awning traces

You have the remains of what used to be a patio awning and wheelwell covers. The patio awning itself could have been a Carefree of Colorado, or an A&E awning.... perhaps even a ZipDee for curved sided trailers. At this point unless you have lots of $$$ to buy and mount a retractable awning like the original I would just invest in a vintage Pole and Rope awning and use the extra cash to go camping. (It will fit in your existing awning rail on the trailer. The windows in '66 thru '68 Airstreams are made of curved tempered glass and only InlandRV has the glass from Airstream to replace them. The front and rear glass can be bought at any local auto glass shop. You just need to know what to order on those two. You can search here on the forums by using the search tab above on the blue tool bar and type in Corning curved glass windows. You'll find lots of info about them. Don't use Plexi or Lexan as it is hard to get the curves to seal right. A call to Andy Rogozinski @ Inland RV or go to InlandRV.com will get you info and you can check the prices for the curved glass replacements. Different windows will be tough to install on the curved sides of the '68 trailer. Post an ad in the classifieds section under the parts wanted tab and list any parts you are looking for. Most will have to come from a donor trailer or from Inland or Vintage Trailer Supply as they are the easier suppliers who carry Vintage replacement parts. Out of Doors Mart claims they have the largest supply of parts for Airstreams and that may be true but not all fit these '66 to '68 trailers. The wirecloth mesh vent does need to be there as mentioned above. The skylights are available from the three sources listed earlier. Hope this helps and welcome to the Forums. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:24 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the advice!

Thanks so much to all of you. Pretty much everything going through the roof need to be replaced and re-sealed. I am ordering plumbing vent covers, fridge vent cover (its not even there), and exhaust fan cover from Inland (if they ever get back to me!) with the 2 pieces of window glass. Will likely need to reset the vents and will replace the plywood skylight with one that is translucent! Plan to seal all of this up.

Need to replace all of the marker lights as well. LED vs conventional?

Each window has an "eyebrow over it. Are these original equipment? Are these a source for leaks? They are attached with screws and appear to have a healthy amount of sealant behind them. Wondering if it make sense to re-set all of these with new sealant to avoid water entry?

The reason I asked if a curved window could be replaced is that the window in front of the door has been replaced with a screwed on piece of plexiglass. I didn't see the aluminum channel/hinge that attaches to the glass and thought I would not be able to restore the window to original. Luckily, I found it in the box of "stuff" that came with her. It is messy and somewhat dinged up, but salvageable. Whew.

Battery in the service center is awkward. Anyone relocate to the small storage compartments behind the wheels? Maybe one in each side. These spaces don't seem real functional for anything else.

This was a bit of an impulse buy for me. Read forums for about 10 days or so before purchasing. Really wanted the "Twin" layout as I plan to bunk up over each bed to make sleeping for the 6 of us! Thanks for all of the advice.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:53 AM   #8
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Eyebrows

The rain in Spain stays mainly in the Plains! Whew!

Now that we have that out of my system.... The eyebrows may have been added as a customers request item by a dealer when the trailer was young. I think if they were factory installed they would be aluminum riveted on. I would remove them and re-install them with aluminum rivets. You can clean off the old sealant and use Parbond/Acryl-R or Vulkum along the top edges of and under the eyebrow strip. Also "butter" the rivets when placing them thru the eyebrow and skins. This is (like all items mounted to the skins) a big source for leaks! Better safe than sorry. All the vents and openings in the roof need to be cleaned off and re-sealed. This is an item you should also add to your annual inspection and maintenance list that will require cleaning/re-sealing. Be sure to check all the caulking on the seams and around windows to keep the water out! Patch the unused holes where plexi was mounted in place of the missing glass with liquid aluminum to fill the holes and replace all hard or cracked seals with the newer "D" style gaskets. That should really help stop the leaks. I am sure the plexi was installed to replace a broken glass as until a few years ago the replacement curved glass was not available. Now you can get the tempered safety glass made by Airstream from InlandRV. that is made to original specs. Hope this helps! Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:02 PM   #9
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Thanks again , Ed and all of you for the guidance.

I searched the forum and the web for other trailers with eyebrows and I didn't see any. Fortunately they are all in good shape. Hope to get them redone as described by Ed.

Windows and vent parts on order now from InlandRV.

Where can I get a pattern, or better yet, pre-made cushions for the front bed/couch? (Is "goucho" the correct term?)

Has anyone switched to a "c" shaped goucho on the 68 O'lander? If so, pics?

I'm thinking about using the original curtain tracks and hardware. All of the little tabs are broken off. I have a bag of new plastic ones in the "box of stuff" that came with the trailer. They seem little dried out too. Does this system function well in it s original state? If not, what modifications are best? Plannig to make some light block curtains with a reflective foil layer toward the window to reduce solar heat intake!
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:25 PM   #10
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Gaucho and curtains

The cushions and backs that form the goucho mattress can be made easily by purchasing 4" foam at several places on the internet or from big box stores. Make a template from cardboard to assure the correct size and cut the foam to size using an electric knife. Or you can do what I did and replaced all my foam cushions with custom made inner spring mattresses. I modified curved corner mattresses from newer trailers and had them re-ticked and covered. The tabs on the curtains are still available from the three vendor I listed in a previous post here or from eBay. Hope this helps. Ed
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:27 PM   #11
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Ed, thanks again. Are there two or three pieces to the gaucho? I have three pieces of plywood on mine that don't really seem to go together to make it work.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:33 PM   #12
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Gaucho plywood

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunkroom View Post
Ed, thanks again. Are there two or three pieces to the gaucho? I have three pieces of plywood on mine that don't really seem to go together to make it work.
My gaucho is on the side of my trailer across from the galley area. But they all work very much alike. There are three (3) pieces that form the underlayment for the bed when it is extended on the walnut slides. That way when in the bed mode no one falls thru to the storage areas below the couch. That foam cushion pulls out to the forward edge of the bed and the back cushion drops in behind it to fill in the mattress area. On my gaucho that back cushion had a plywood back panel that was inside the back cushion with the foam material and was fit into the zippered cushion cover. The base/bottom cushion had no extra plywood inside the zippered cover. I think the reason was the back cushion needed the extra plywood to support the backrest cushions shape when used in the couch mode. The bottom had the rear most plywood screwed down on the gaucho frame the front most bottom plywood piece had a spacer plywood section screwed to the walnut slides under the front edge (that slid back to flush with the back sheet when closed) so the front plywood sheet would slide back over the bottom sheet when in the couch mode. Hope that helps you figure it out. I have no pictures available of mine but perhaps someone can direct you to some pics to show you how this all works. I am sure you can do this gaucho re-build. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:24 PM   #13
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Thanks again, Ed.

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This is what I have. The three pieces of plywood don't really seem to cover enough to make it work. I would appreciate any help.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:56 PM   #14
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Here's the dimensions for the cushions I posted in another thread.
Couch Bottom

6" Thick
73" Length
21 1/2" Width

*overall shape is a rectangle

Couch Back

6" Thick
73" Length
15" Wide

*front facing fabric is 15" and has a tapper down to 12" in the back. The top edge appears to have the tapered edge, not the bottom

*The Couch Back and Couch Bottom are attached to allow for the unit to lay flat for a bed.

"Hidden" Insert

6" Thick
73" Length
13" Width at the mid-point of the cushion

*This piece has a curved edge that needs to be matched to the contour of your trailer.

Also the original pieces had plywood in them. We are opting not to reinstall the plywood.

Those small pieces of plywood were in the original cushions. Looks like yours are missing?

Good luck
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:06 PM   #15
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Pat:

That's great help, thank you.

The "Hidden" piece stays flat behind the back when in "couch" mode?

Are the middle (couch back) and front (couch seat) connected to each other by a fabric hinge, or separate?

Thank you,

Mark
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunkroom
Pat:

That's great help, thank you.

The "Hidden" piece stays flat behind the back when in "couch" mode?

Are the middle (couch back) and front (couch seat) connected to each other by a fabric hinge, or separate?

Thank you,

Mark
That's right on the hidden piece. Also the seat bottom and back are connected together where the back can lay down when the bottom is pulled forward.
Good luck,
Pat
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunkroom View Post
Pat:

That's great help, thank you.

The "Hidden" piece stays flat behind the back when in "couch" mode?

Are the middle (couch back) and front (couch seat) connected to each other by a fabric hinge, or separate?

Thank you,

Mark
Mark, Mine were connected by a piece of the same material as the cushions were covered with and had backing sewn on to make it a stronger piece of material. So when folded up (into a couch) that material was behind the back cushion and in the bed mode it allowed enough movement for the back cushion to lay down flat to complete the mattress. Ed

P.S. In my new configuration I have done away with the material connector and added a velcro strip in its' place....
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:39 PM   #18
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Congratulations on your new baby!! Ours has been in our family since 1976 and I will give you some much needed advice - modify as little as possible! Having camped in ours since I was six, I am still amazed every time we camp at how efficient and comfortable these campers are. It seems like very few people appreciate them in their original state. Everyone wants to modify and make modern, which in my opinion, is like putting spinner hubcaps on a 1957 Chevy. You own a piece of American history!

Don't replace the windows, these windows still work well and are very hard to find. Just have someone replace the weatherstripping. The curtain tracks work really well, but the sew-in curtain tabs (lattice looking at the top) break a lot. I would change to the ones with the rings at the top. These are indestructible! Things we had to fix:

Keep the original tanks!!! I NEVER see these anymore. We used new tanks and they just weren't cool and vintage. We took ours (just like yours) and had them certified with new adapters put on and I am so glad to have them back! I little Krylon and a sander and they look brand new.

Cracked rock guard in front - we have the same problem! Waiting for Vintage Trailer Supply to get some back in. I read that the originals were clear... so cool!
- plastic hinges on cabinets under couches - had to replace with piano hinges. They work really well!
- new fridge - RIP Dometic, you will be missed.
- cracks in plastic in bathroom - took to the dealer and they patched and matched the color.

Good luck!
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:16 PM   #19
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1968 26' Overlander
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Vent Fan over cooktop (range)

It has been a while since I posted here.

I removed the vent over my cooktop. It is a 5.5" in diameter sleeve that goes through the shell layers on the curve. 12V motor is OK after a bit of cleaning but I think an upgrade is in order to save battery life and get it quieter.

Anyone have a recommendation for a replacement fan motor or replacement fan that would work without making the hole bigger?

Thanks.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:28 AM   #20
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1968 26' Overlander
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Pictures of Sky Light install

Anybody have pictures of their "skylight"? My trailer came with a piece of 3/4" plywood over the opening. It also came with a replacement acrylic (plastic of some kind) skylight cover.

I am wondering how it was attached to the mechanism originally?

Thanks,

Mark
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