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Old 11-19-2018, 04:38 PM   #81
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1967 26' Overlander
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Finished 99% of he wiring. Got the solar panel glued down and waiting for a little warmer day to chuck the edges. The company they supplied the solar system just sends a bunch of foot and a half long wires with couplers . Not my way of doing them so ordered some ends and will make 6 custom made wires in home runs with no coupleing in line . Parts should be here Friday.

Picked up my two 200 amp /12v batteries and 2000 watt inverter from the fright docks . They donít seam to like to deliver out where I live but every other wee k ?

Iím slow but like a turtle 🐢. I can fix that .
Blue

Ps . I went to get a new windshield in my truck and came home with a new TV .
Got the scaffolding out of the way and took two pictures of the awning curb side .Click image for larger version

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Old 11-19-2018, 06:48 PM   #82
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Boy I like that Super Duty dually! Texas white none the less. I think that in bed camper in the back ground will be no problem for this truck. I hope you like yours as much as I like mine. Mine is not a dually, but has been a great tow vehicle for us. 5 years and 62k miles without any problems at all.

You will be able to boondock at "the bend" all Speed Week with that solar system. Might still need the generator to run the AC to cool things down for the night, although you Texans are used to hot weather.

David
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Old 11-25-2018, 01:12 PM   #83
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So working on finishing up the inside cover up . Doing the last of the insulation and found that the door area had a great place for a leak . Found some plastic covers left over from house build . They worked great .

Put the front fiberglass cover up by my self , it was a lot easier taking it down . Iím getting to old for this heavy lifting . Got the other Al. panels riveted in also .
Only the two 16íx4í ceiling panels left . Think I will need help with them . Boy, I hate to ask for help since I live out of town . Still have to finishing the texture off the nose cap . But if all goes well I should be Abel to paint the first week of December if the weather will cooperate. Blue
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Old 12-02-2018, 02:13 PM   #84
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Almost

A little more sanding , areal good cleaning, and vacuuming,Iíll be ready to tape and primer.
Got my last panels up but ran out of pop rivets. Thought 400 would be enough .
Need them before paint so I may put in my tanks while waiting . Already fitted , just need to mount and make a bottom pan with insulation . Big panels were a bitch but we got them up .Click image for larger version

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Old 12-02-2018, 06:53 PM   #85
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You should invent an Airstream interior ceiling sheet panel holder. I think it would look like a drywall ceiling jack, but different. I don't know how the factory installs interior ceiling panels. Maybe they have some type of jig or fixture.

Heck, I have enough trouble trying to bet belly pan aluminum installed. And it's flat, not curved.

400 1/8" dia pop rivets! You will have the strongest grip in Texas.

David
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:28 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
You should invent an Airstream interior ceiling sheet panel holder. I think it would look like a drywall ceiling jack, but different. I don't know how the factory installs interior ceiling panels. Maybe they have some type of jig or fixture.

Heck, I have enough trouble trying to bet belly pan aluminum installed. And it's flat, not curved.

400 1/8" dia pop rivets! You will have the strongest grip in Texas.

David



David , a lift would be nice . For my belly pan , I put a 1Ē piece of pink rigid insulation under the pan and put it on a floor jack and lift it up , center any holes that will work and go from there .

As for as a strong grip itís more like a pumped finger . For the 1/8 rivets I use a cheap HF gun . Itís not strong enough to do 3/16Ē SS rivets or bigger . For those I use my Huck gun . I used it on the wheel wells.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-05-2018, 07:06 PM   #87
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Hi blue: Maybe you are enjoying the cold, ice and snow we sent your way. I wanted you to get in the Christmas spirit. Jingle Bells, Jingle Bells.

I too admit I have an air riveter for pulling pop rivets. If I had milked cows by hand for a living, I would need one. I don't have an air hammer for bucking solid rivets. I haven't had a need yet, but I bet I will someday.

And I too rig a "helper" for holding belly aluminum sheets in place while drilling and riveting.

One tool I purchased was a "Strong Arm" since I don't have one. It is generally an upside down drill press. Sits on the floor and a 1/2" drill mounts to the thing. Pull down on the handle and the drill goes up and drills my rivet hole for belly aluminum. My shoulder got a good dose of tendinitis the last time I installed new belly aluminum. No more. I'll bet there are a 100 rivet holes to drill for a belly pan on a 27' Airstream.

A geezer like me needs help.

David
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:51 PM   #88
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Painting

I can paint a car or truck with a spray gun pretty good . This rolling paint on in latex is not as easy . Did the first coat of primer with an 8Ē roller with 1/4 nap . Not the prettiest thing youíve ever seen . Did the next with 3/8 , much nicer . The front cap didnít turn out as good , as the 8Ē is too big . Will get a 4Ē or 3Ē and try that on the eggshell paint . Got two heaters going in the AS and got the temp up to 75 . Have a fan going also , but I have to keep closed up to keep temperature up . Pretty nasty breathing . Going to be to cold tomorrow and will OOT till Monday and it going to be a little warmer then . The paint is to be above 50 for 24 hours .
What nap and roller size is every one else using .
Blue
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Old 12-11-2018, 05:04 PM   #89
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I've used 3-4 inch trim rollers from the big box home improvement stores with a very thick nap, probably 1/2 inch, to do tight curves and trim painting.
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:48 AM   #90
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We used 8 inch on the "straight" sections, and 3 - 4 inch on the curved ones. I don't recall nap... Wasn't real thick....
We did 2 coats of exterior grade latex for our top coats.

Kay
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:56 PM   #91
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Primed , now first coat rolled on . Spots without paint will get cut in after next coat . They will be painted but not seen . All those spots will be covered up and never seen in my life .LOLClick image for larger version

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Old 12-17-2018, 06:55 PM   #92
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That looks like just a lot of hard work. I was admiring some trailers for sale on Airstream Forums Classified that had very modern interiors. They had painted walls, fancy kitchens and baths, and the like. Some of them forgot beds and closets. Party trailers I guess. I have a feeling your will be very nice indeed.

My 75 Overlander is not getting such a major remodel. All I did was clean most of the mold and mildew off the vinyl walls. Easier than stripping and painting. And I'm replacing rotted wood parts. You should see the old mattress support plywood. Rotten to the core. At least the trailer smells better now.

David
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:27 AM   #93
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David , yes itís been a lot of work . Since we found almost all the wood to be soft , it had to come out . We had to strip the lower sheets out to get to the bolts and opened a can of worms since someone had painted Over the original walls with some paint that had to go . I hope mine turns out as nice as yours . The twin beds just werenít long enough to be comfortable enough to have a good night sleep . And the front was empty . Remodel is in the cards . Blue
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:36 PM   #94
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Ya but, you like hard work.

Actually working on my old Airstreams is enjoyable for me. Same with traveling in them. My Overlander had rear end separation due to a rotted subfloor in the very rear like most of them. I also had a soft spot behind the street side wheel well. This damage didn't justify a shell off for me. I scabbed in patches.

My Overlander's interior has survived its 43 years without much damage. It isn't the most beautiful interior in the campground, but it is what it is. I will remake the fridge cabinet as I want a microwave on top of a smaller fridge. I'm going to close that silly "shelf" space between the overheads and the top of the fridge. It will gain me about 6" more storage height.

I think the 67 Overlander interiors were made from wood for the most part. My 75 Overlander is made with aluminum extrusions, melamine laminates, plastic moldings and tambour doors. Much different construction techniques.

David
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:16 AM   #95
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Got the paint finished up yesterday. Also got my new tires mounted on the rims and they are ready for mounting on the Airstream. Going to keep the interior of the Airstream headed for the next 2 or 3 days to bake the paint good .
Will pull the drums off the ew axel to make sure they have the bearings packed good , then mount the tires and have her back to rolling.

Onward thru the fog , Blue
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:51 PM   #96
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Interesting. Don't you have confidence in the factory to grease pack tapered roller bearings correctly? I bet they have a machine that does it.

The only sure jobs are the ones you do yourself.

David
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:09 PM   #97
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Rule #1: Trust, but verify.
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Old 12-21-2018, 01:53 PM   #98
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Shore power fixed

Mounted my shore power receiver and cut a panel out of some scrap . Has a 3Ē hole on both sides . Used my punch press with a dimple die on the inside so there are no sharp edges. Got almost all the holes drilled for the rivets befor my drill motor battery died . I will finish in morn . This is behind a cabinet and will not be painted . Made the inside hole big enough to use a nut driver without being disassembled . Blue


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Old 12-21-2018, 08:32 PM   #99
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I used the same shore power inlet receptacle as you did, so it appears. I used a ragged old hole saw to cut the holes. I did file them smooth. No fancy dimpled die set for me. I too have the inlet inside a bath cabinet right under the AC power distribution box. I think having a "conventional" shore power receptacle is much better than the original "hard wired" power cord coming out of the rear bumper storage area.

David
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:56 AM   #100
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Onward to the bath !

Going to be 75 today , so I washed up the fiberglass and plastic parts to the bath .
Question , I have a few cracks in the plastic , what does everyone find that works the best for the repair ? Also a little spinderwebbing in the fiberglass .
Thinking of installing all the parts and making it as strong as possible without all the movement . Then I will sand and paint . Any suggestions on paint and prep ? What did everyone else use ? I will probably spay the whole bath at one time .
Hope Iím not posting too much and boring everyone .
Blue
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