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Old 07-26-2018, 09:38 PM   #21
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1967 26' Overlander
Alpine , Texas
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Drilling

[5/8 drift , centerpunch, centerdrill,1/4Ē,3/8Ē,1/2Ē and then 5/8 . Seamed to go pretty fast . I donít use step drills on material thicker than 3/16Ē seams to wear them out faster due to heat .
Love the 66 .
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:46 PM   #22
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ahh,the joys of vintage ASs. we must be gluttons for punishment. alittle over 2 yrs on my 80 caravelle; dtill not done but is useable. will be following you build. kurt
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:44 AM   #23
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Viva Big Bend

We are having a music festival in Alpine this Th/ Su . So I wonít get much done over the week end . I did get up early this morn and used my Beverly shear to cut up my corners for the tubs . Cleaned them and flanges with acid , cleaned with a base to kill the acid , tinted and leaded them in . Will seam seal inside laps in morn and mount . This is fun but itís been 30 years since I did gal sm . If you try this be very careful, Muratic acid is dangerous. BlueClick image for larger version

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Old 07-28-2018, 08:11 PM   #24
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Isn't muratic acid what we clean cement mixer drums with?

Thanks for sharing your 5/8" drilling process. That's the one I use so now I don't feel dumb at all. I figured the good guys used step drills.

You are very skilled and have a very nice shop. You really can "fix that".

Have fun at the town music festival.

David
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Old 07-30-2018, 02:33 PM   #25
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Drill the two holes in my gray tank and glued in fittings . Positioned the tank where it goes so I could get my measurements for cutting the last floor board .
Seam sealed the wheel tubs and mounted into position . Used rubber roof tape and seam sealer on them . After the floor is straight and level and screwed sturdy I will coat the inside of them in rubberized undercoat . I guess Iíll have to mount the last board in two pieces unless Iím missing something ?
Blue
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Old 07-30-2018, 06:40 PM   #26
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Making fantastic progress. How did you get the inside of the exterior skins so clean? They look brand new.

David
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Old 07-30-2018, 06:55 PM   #27
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Pressure wash .
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Old 07-31-2018, 07:08 PM   #28
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That must be a Texas "high" pressure washer. You sure did a good job cleaning them up.

David
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:37 PM   #29
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Have a question .

The sub floor is all bolted down to the frame . Treeing up the body . Are the sides from the cap ends straight ? Will be ready to bolt the body down soon as I know . Thanks Blue .
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:01 PM   #30
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Help

Still need to know if sides are straight . Anyone with a similar model have time to run a string line down the side a floor level ?
Also , I am a documentary of thing I take apart with photos , I canít figure out where the two angles go ? Any help would be great to know . They are about 4x4-30 long .

While I wait for info on sides one more day , I made a replacement piece to go between the floor and frame in the back by tha bumper . I didnít have a brake long enough to bend a flange on the back of it . This is something I wanted to add , so I used my bead roller to bend it over and put a stiffer area to fuport a gasket Iím going to use . Came out workable and fits good .Click image for larger version

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Old 08-06-2018, 06:59 AM   #31
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Hi Joyflea: I "assume" there is nothing straight on an Airstream body. That said, I believe the aluminum under the front and rear end caps on the mid sixties trailers are sloped out, or more than 90 degrees to the subfloor and frame rails. The new body starting in 1969 is definitely not straight down, it slopes in quite a bit.

It looks like you made a great "flashing" between the bumper gap and the body. Airstream just used a flat piece of aluminum sheet there, which allowed rain water to splash and then migrate into the cut ends of the subfloor. Rot, rot, rot away subfloor.

David
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:29 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joyflea View Post
Still need to know if sides are straight . Anyone with a similar model have time to run a string line down the side a floor level ?
I used an aluminum "I" beam clamped to the ribs to insure the sides were straight. I also made a long stringer over the wheel wells as I did not like the bottom of the ribs floating. It's somewhere in my thread below.
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Old 08-07-2018, 03:43 PM   #33
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Floor bolted , unbolted , and bolted . I can fix that .

Ok so Iíve had my welder in the way for a while . I had something to weld but couldnít remember what it was ,?

So using a long straight edge bolted to ribs I got my floor tied into the frame and wall Channels together . Started bolting down the door frame and I remember what I needed to weld . I replaced all the frame around the door but hadnít done the two small wrap pieces on the bottom of door where the stap slides up into . So time to unbolt and get that done . Easy fix . Cut two small 14ga pieces and bent my radius . I used this bending horse I made . Itís nothing but 3 different sized pipes with a gap between each . I use it more than my roller . Tacked to outriggers , ground , por15 , and done . Will seam seal from back Side before I undercoat .
Rebolted , polished up the Al. Piece , it had been wirewheeled , polished it up some so it wonít be so hard when I do the trailer . The smug you see Is rubber tape sealer on back side .
And I got to take my welder back into my shop , YEA one more thing fixed .Click image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2018, 06:16 PM   #34
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I canít wait to start working on the interior. I love to beadroll al. I changed my avatar to what I love to do . Canít really see it but her it is . And this is what I love to do . Stay tuned for something different in the inside .Click image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2018, 06:24 PM   #35
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Joy, that is very cool. Nice craft.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:06 PM   #36
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Well, you are the first vintage Airstream enthusiasts who prefers "bead rolling". We use to call that marbles when I was a kid. I bet not many folks know what bead rolling is, or have seen the machine that does it.

You're a man of many skills. I admire that very much. We used an old saying back in Iowa. "Don't judge someone by what they have, judge someone by what they don't need." Me thinks you don't need much. Very, very independent indeed. I had to hire a mobile welder to fix my frame.

David
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Old 08-11-2018, 02:22 PM   #37
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Today we finished stripping the paint and vinyl off the last Al. panel . Just one end cap and some trim pieces left .
Only found two things of interest in the iner area . A mr raisin , mouse toy and a shipping slip for a panel .

Set up my scaffolding to clean of all the old caulk off the roof and put new ac and two new vents in place before I start sealing and trying to make it leak proof .

Latter , Blue .Click image for larger version

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Old 08-18-2018, 08:46 AM   #38
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Out with the old , in with the new

Bent up some 90 degree angles out of 3003 .063 to brace and to fill in holes from old ac . Ran it through the shrinker to match the roof curve . After rivets weíre instaled the roof was much stronger . Removed the front and rear power vents and cleaned all the sealer . What a pain .

Working off a scaffold with boards on ribs I installed the new ac and power vents . Still need to install tv antenna, but will have to wait till next week when my flexible solar panels get here to make sure everything fits . Got to finish all the holes and sealed so I can start insulation and wireing.

Thanks for watching , Blue .Click image for larger version

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Old 08-18-2018, 07:21 PM   #39
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Wow, this is a top level renovation. You were right on when you said "I can fix that". Great job on the AC installation and curve fitting. Not easy.

I hear you on the roof vent sealant removal. I also had sealants of various types slobbered all around my windows. It took many hours of "pick'n and grin'n to get it off and a proper seam sealer applied.

I did the same "scaffolding" as you when installing my heavy AC. I used carpet and boards on the ribs with a piece of plywood between them to kneel on, and to place the AC while I positioned it over the hole. Not a real easy job with just one old man to do. You validated my method, thank you.

David
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:39 AM   #40
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David , your right on the old man part . Be 70 on this next birthday .
The black stickyunder aluminum tape was the hardest to remove . Wish I knew where to find it , I would use some on the overlap . It would outlast me .

Blue
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