1966 Overlander International Twin Bed

[Action]

I bought my silver bullet on April 13th, 2002 from a private party in Indiana. (via e-bay) The VIN is J1266209, which means it was built in Jackson Center Ohio, and it is the 209th unit. Amazingly the refer still works well! The A/C and plumbing were shot. So I have replaced the A/C unit, and updated the running gear. I also have got all the windows working and replaced the screens with sun screens. ('Cause it's hot in AZ) The exterior is mostly straight, so my focus is going to be on the interior for now.

[Calvin]

Hi Action;
What brand and model air conditioner did you install? Mine seems to be a split unit with only a small hole through the roof for wires and tubing. And it's getting verrry tired in this south Texas heat!
Calvin

[Action]

C,

Thanks for the inquiry. My replacement A/C is a used ('bout 3 to 4 years used) Duo-Therm Penguin. It is the piston compressor low profile 13.5K unit. The other type of Duo-Therm is a Brisk Aire. The Brisk Aire is a rotory compressor and a taller unit because of that feature. It supposed to be quieter, however the unit I have does not seem too loud. And the Brisk Aire is a little more $.

I took off the old Duo-Therm unit and it weighed about 25 to 50 more #'s than the replacement. I paid $350 for the replacement from a RV wrecking yard here in PHX. That was last year. This year I bought new air filters and grilles and the heater option from PPL in TX. They have good pricing and were friendly.

The hole that you have in the roof is 14". Most of the A/C is on the roof. The controls, wiring and filter/grille hangs in the coach.

I am very happy with the performance of the new unit. Outside temps are about 105 to 110 in the afternoon right now and the A/C unit will cool the coach down in a couple of hours. I have used the unit in Mexico with the same results. It's in the catagory of gotta have it to enjoy my addiction!

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[overlander64]

Greetings Calvin!

If your Overlander has the Original Armstron Bay Breeze Air Conditioner, you are correct in your observation that there are only two or three round holes in the roof. These old armstrong units were not installed in a standard roof vent opening. When the new Coleman was installed in my Overlander, a 14" square opening had to be cut in the roof once the Armstrong was removed - - then shims or braces of treated wood were installed between the roof and ceiling panels to facilitate the installation of the new Coleman air conditioner. Some additional shimming or bracing was required between the roof and the exterior housing. Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar Falls, IA handled the entire job, but I was able to observe portions of the process.

Good luck with your air conditioner replacement!

Kevin

[Calvin]

Hi Action and Kevin,
Thanks for both of your replies. My A/C is made by the old Armstrong Furnace Company. I'll have to plan enough time for the extra work involved. It's great to be able to learn what to expect 'before' you tackle a project! The Furnace A/C is super quiet, even from outside the trailer it's hard to hear if it is running.
Thanks again for the help and advice.
Calvin

[technautica]

Originally Posted by Action

I bought my silver bullet on April 13th, 2002 from a private party in Indiana. (via e-bay) The VIN is J1266209, which means it was built in Jackson Center Ohio, and it is the 209th unit. Amazingly the refer still works well! The A/C and plumbing were shot. So I have replaced the A/C unit, and updated the running gear. I also have got all the windows working and replaced the screens with sun screens. ('Cause it's hot in AZ) The exterior is mostly straight, so my focus is going to be on the interior for now.

Hi there: Just wondering if you have got to that bathroom floor yet. I'm just starting to tackle mine this week. I have removed tiolet, some of old copper piping that was full of splits, and univolt system. I have come to a fork in the road so to speak. The rot in my trailer was extensive in the back. My guess is I'm going to have to remove tub and one piece molding up to the horizontal aluminum trim at about the 3' level. I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove sink top. Screws under lip removed but top won't come off as it appears attached at the wall somehow. Action if you've finished replacing that rotten floor, give me a blow by blow description of how you tackled it. Otherwise I'll have to make my way thru the darkness by guess or by god. Thanks James

[TomW]

Originally Posted by technautica

...Otherwise I'll have to make my way thru the darkness by guess or by god. Thanks James

My '67 Overlander had a similar situation. Check my early photos for the "big picture".

You will find that the bathroom was assembled first, then the twins, then the galley. I found the only way to disassemble the bathroom completly enough for a floor repair was to remove everything in reverse order.

In other words, unless you get the Sawzall out, you will have a more or less gutted interior before you can address your bathroom floor repair.

As Sneakinup can attest, I can glaze you over completely with details if you ask. Hopefully Action has a concise answer.

Tom