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Old 06-24-2015, 05:28 PM   #1
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Yes another floor replacement thread

Unless I'm overly confused, the Airstream similar to a house, has a sub-floor (3/4" plywood in my 75 Overlander) and a finish floor (carpeting, floor tile, etc.) Similar to a house the sub-floor needs to be intact and damage free (another discussion in itself).

So a few questions ...

Why use the fake wood or cork supposedly water proof finish floor products?
(from personal experience in hospitals the only true water proof flooring is found in operating rooms and is very expensive)

What about the added weight from these products?

What about replacing the finish floor with a product similar to the original?
For example - mine has floor tile. The PO covered it with a fake wood product (and did a terrible job). Why not replace with floor tile or a sheet product?

Has anyone ever had their old floor tiles tested for asbestos?

Thanks beforehand
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:40 PM   #2
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Hi and welcome.

A few answers-

"Why use the fake wood or cork supposedly water proof finish floor products?"

I don't use them.

"What about replacing the finish floor with a product similar to the original?
For example - mine has floor tile. The PO covered it with a fake wood product (and did a terrible job). Why not replace with floor tile or a sheet product?"

I have used fully glued sheet Marmoleum with good results. You can read the thread "Abby gets some separation H" to see how it did it.

All Airstream floor tiles up to 69 when they went with mostly carpet contain asbestos. The only one I ever tested was a 1966.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:19 PM   #3
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We have a floating cork floor in most of our trailer. It is warmer than tile or sheet vinyl. Our vinyl bathroom floor is much colder than the cork. We get many positive comments when people walk in our trailer about the floor. It did add several hundred pounds of weight to the trailer, so we factored that in as we rebuilt the trailer interior. Overall our trailer came in at about the weight we were aiming for at 6500 lb . We would use cork in the bathroom too, if we were to do it again. We are very happy with it.

Kay
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:22 PM   #4
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Why is the sky blue?Each to their own tastes and personal preferences.

I for example replaced most of my subfloor with Coosa board which is waterproof and 45% lighter than the plywood it replaced. I used an engineered hardwood flooring on top as I liked the look of wood but didn't want the problems (expansion and contraction) of a solid wood floor. The added weight of the flooring was compensated by using the Coosa below. I don't like carpet and didn't want different types of flooring to busy up the interior as I had linoleum and carpet before. The only place I carpeted was the drivers cockpit and doghouse. There are many other options including a plastic tile slate like flooring, laminate and all sorts of others to personalize your rig.

Are you sure your subfloor is 3/4 as most Airstream including my own is a 5/8 thick subfloor.

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Old 06-25-2015, 12:08 PM   #5
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If I was replacing the floor i'd def use 3/4 as 5/8 is just a lame idea.
I also noticed when i do mine in a year or two I will be beefing up the frame cross members in some spots. There are many ways to improve on the AS design.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:51 PM   #6
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I used sheet vinyl flooring and it's warm and it looks like wood!!!Click image for larger version

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Old 06-25-2015, 02:07 PM   #7
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Love my cork

Floating cork flooring installed in my 55.
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:56 PM   #8
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Thanks!

Yes the sub-floor on my 1975 Overlander is 3/4" as is the tub support. Hopefully it will never need a new sub-floor.

The PO did a horrible job with the fake wood over old floor tiles. That is next to go. Hopefully the original floor isn't too bad. If not, as long as we don't snort the removal, life will go on - besides I'll likely die of old age before any asbestos symptoms show up.

Love the photos. I haven't figured out how to post photos yet.
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:14 PM   #9
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Coosa Sub-Floor

Isuzusweet wrote: I for example replaced most of my subfloor with Coosa board which is waterproof and 45% lighter than the plywood it replaced.

Can you elaborate on how you re-attached your cabinets? I also used this poly product with fiberglass reinforcement as it was lighter, stronger and waterproof. BUT, it doesn't hold screws well. When I reattach my bath cabinets I was thinking of nut-zerks or wood backing plates. Interested to learn what you did.
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Old 06-26-2015, 03:26 PM   #10
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Nothing that a little PL Premium nails squirted on the back of a L bracket wouldn't solve. PL Premium bonds to practically everything....except ABS.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 06-26-2015, 03:34 PM   #11
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Well, I will add my 2 cents. I read about all these floors being plywood. I replaced several sections of my floor (wafer board). Used 3/4 CDX plywood, Floating laminate on top, good to go, we'll see. I'm happy!
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:35 PM   #12
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Sub-floor ... maybe I'm again confused, but in a leakproof, catch the leaks early and shower discipline so water goes down the drain and not elsewhere world there should be no "need" to change the sub-floor. No?
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrgtrakr View Post
Sub-floor ... maybe I'm again confused, but in a leakproof, catch the leaks early and shower discipline so water goes down the drain and not elsewhere world there should be no "need" to change the sub-floor. No?
Most of the rot is caused by water that leaks in between the inner and outer shells and runs down to the c channel and then leaks through and saturates the edge of the subfloor. The owners never see the water, and only if they are vigilant do they see the telltale signs of staining at the edges, usually underneath something or inside on the floor of a cabinet or closet. It all takes quite a bit of time, but in a lot of instances, the current owners aren't using the trailer much or have just lost interest.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrgtrakr View Post
Sub-floor ... maybe I'm again confused, but in a leakproof, catch the leaks early and shower discipline so water goes down the drain and not elsewhere world there should be no "need" to change the sub-floor. No?
I'd be willing to bet you have rotted sub-floor a few places in your trailer. Especially if the PO layered on some "fake wood product".

All Airstreams leak.
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:17 AM   #15
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Really? They ALL leak?

Where do they leak from?
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:05 PM   #16
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Windows, doors, vents, sewer vents, seams, Airconditioner, rivets, lights and any other place a hole is punched, cut or drilled in the skin.

Just do a search and you'll find thousands of posts on leaks.
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:54 AM   #17
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NO WAY!!!!

(joke)

Has anyone ever insulated one with spray foam?
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrgtrakr View Post
NO WAY!!!!

(joke)

Has anyone ever insulated one with spray foam?
Yes. (no joke)

"The Aluminum Falcon"

Airstream Forums - View Profile: Darkspeed
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:40 AM   #19
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Also, Craig Dorsey.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1154197...?noredirect=1#

I will be using spray foam for my '51 Flying Cloud or the '62 GT. Most people will tell you it is a bad idea.

Lots of pros and cons.
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:29 AM   #20
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What type are you going to use? I have been reevaluating all the different types available now
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