Who likes what to treat the frame for rust prevention?

[Re-Pete]

Looking for input on the best way to treat and paint the frame after the rust removal and welding is done. Some products I'm looking at are Corroseal 82331 Water-Based Rust Converter and POR-15 45404 Semi Gloss Black Rust Preventive Paint to name a couple of the top contenders.

[dbj216]

I've used POR-15. It seems to be a favorite in these Forums. I found it expensive and harder to apply. You clean and prep the metal, big job. Then you "prep" the metal, big job. POR-15 is very thin, almost like water. One Airstreamer suggested spraying it with a garden chemical sprayer with a hand pump. I brushed it on with mixed results. Big job. Finally, you have to top coat those frame areas exposed to sunlight, like the A frame.

Some guys use the Eastman products. I never have.

I don't know what Airstream originally used but it reminds me of old fashioned automotive paint.

David

[cliffcharb]

If you properly prep the metal any quality primer and paint will work. For rusty metal I still prefer ospho then paint as instructed. I’ve used rustoleum primers as directed by local metal shops as it’s proven to me to be very effective. I’ve had pieces fabricated without a top coat and still no signs of rust years later. Of course it’s better to paint but I’m dealing with heavy equipment that gets beat up anyways.

[coleman1]

I've tried several products when restoring old cars, most with varying degrees of success. What I've found is that the quality of the job is directly proportional to the quality of the of prep work. You should look at the POR-15 system and Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint. (www.hirschauto.com)

[suncoasteng]

Paint with Phosp, wait 24 hours, wire brush the painted areas, then hit again with Ospho.
Wait 24 hours then prime with green Zinc Chromate, wait 4 hours then hit with two coats of epoxy

[MickeyC]

I have been using DTM by Sherwin Williams. It is the new version of ironclad. DTM is excellent for rust prevention.

[sbowman]

POR-15 hands down, nothing beats it. Good prep, latex gloves, throw away cheap brushes, and do not get on you or you will have to wear it off.



Quarts only, open and put/pour into small glass fruit jars to use, as many as needed. Do not reuse container it comes in.


This stuff is bullet proof!


Best regards and safe travels.

[CRH]

I did a truck frame about 15 years ago using a POR 15 kit and followed the instructions precisely. Rust eventually came back through. The POR came off in big flakes....I am still driving said truck.

I think good prep, followed by a cheap rust preventative paint, and then a spray with Fluid Film will do a better job of fighting rust.

[Re-Pete]

Originally Posted by dbj216

I've used POR-15. It seems to be a favorite in these Forums. I found it expensive and harder to apply... I brushed it on with mixed results. Big job... Some guys use the Eastman products. I never have.

David

Originally Posted by cliffcharb

If you properly prep the metal any quality primer and paint will work. For rusty metal I still prefer ospho then paint as instructed. I’ve used rustoleum primers as directed by local metal shops as it’s proven to me to be very effective. I’ve had pieces fabricated without a top coat and still no signs of rust years later. Of course it’s better to paint but I’m dealing with heavy equipment that gets beat up anyways.

Originally Posted by coleman1

I've tried several products when restoring old cars, most with varying degrees of success. What I've found is that the quality of the job is directly proportional to the quality of the of prep work. You should look at the POR-15 system and Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint. (www.hirschauto.com)

Originally Posted by suncoasteng

Paint with Phosp, wait 24 hours, wire brush the painted areas, then hit again with Ospho.
Wait 24 hours then prime with green Zinc Chromate, wait 4 hours then hit with two coats of epoxy

Originally Posted by MickeyC

I have been using DTM by Sherwin Williams. It is the new version of ironclad. DTM is excellent for rust prevention.

Originally Posted by sbowman

POR-15 hands down, nothing beats it. Good prep, latex gloves, throw away cheap brushes, and do not get on you or you will have to wear it off...
Best regards and safe travels.

Originally Posted by CRH

I did a truck frame about 15 years ago using a POR 15 kit and followed the instructions precisely. Rust eventually came back through. The POR came off in big flakes....I am still driving said truck.
I think good prep, followed by a cheap rust preventative paint, and then a spray with Fluid Film will do a better job of fighting rust.

Thanks for all of you suggestions. I've looked into your suggestions, researching what I was able. I probably should have mentioned that I'm using a 4-1/2" grinder with different wire wheels and at this I have removed a lot of the rust. Naturally there is still rust in places, but I'm looking at a lot of clean metal. Some of these products POR 15 in particular need rust to work.

suncoasteng's suggestions sounded interesting, but searches did not provide me with much backup info.



A couple of products that I've been researching,

Corroseal

and

Rust Bullet

, seem like they may work for me. They will simply act as a primer if there is no rust present and Rust Bullet does not need to be top coated, but both can be if desired. The big reason I'm drawn to Corroseal is because out of all the products I've looked at it seems to be the least toxic or hazardous. It cleans up with soap and water. It also does not require multiple thin layers. What originally got my attention is that it was developed in the UK for use on deep ocean Oil Rigs and it's pretty well know in the marine industry. Who knows?

Anyway, the fact that I'm striking out in a different direction should not be construed as a disregard for your suggestions. Quite the contrary I found them all very helpful. The pros and cons made me keep digging. The one thing I remember from my childhood is my Dad telling me, "Rust never sleeps". Tru Dat!

[Monza]

There is a pre metal prep for non rusted steel for Por 15, also it bonds to sand blasted steel well. I used it lots of work applying two coats with a brush results look good, time will tell.
I think your dad stole that saying from Neil Young ...

[57Vintage]

Prepping the metal is just as important, if not more so. Removing all the rust, old paint, etc, will provide better adhesion for whichever product you choose. I had the frame sandblasted prior to painting.

[1973Argosy]

I like por15

[Countryboy59]

Fluid Film or, if you can find it, Waxoyl.

[r carl]

Originally Posted by Countryboy59

Fluid Film or, if you can find it, Waxoyl.

I make my own waxoyl.

[Re-Pete]

Sorry I neglected this thread. I guess I failed to notice the additional reply's after my last entry. I really hate it when someone starts a thread and then leaves it in limbo. So, as a follow up here are several pictures. And a kind of wrap up.


I've decided to use Corroseal fro the rust conversion. To begin with I conducted a quick test.

1. I Used some metal plates the AS used inside the C-channel to anchor the the shell to the frame at the rear. They were to say the least, heavily rusted and badly pitted.
2. 
3. To begin with I removed the rust. First, for fun, I just threw them in a jar filled with vinegar for several days. That dissolved most of the rust and then I wire brushed them.
4. 
5. Having thoroughly dried them, I coated them with the Corroseal.
6. The first pic is a few minutes post treatment.
7. Then I let them sit while it did it's thing. The second pic is 1 hour and 50 minutes later.
8. The third and last pic was taken 3 hours and 39 minutes after the first pic.

I've pretty much completed the rust removal from the frame. I still need to remove the paint from the tongue, but the frame is basically ready for a final cleaning and the Corroseal treatment.

I'm getting some welding done today. Also I've decided to lift off the Shell. Once I've done that I'll finish the work on the frame.Which in hindsight I wish I had had the courage to do in the first place.

Originally Posted by Monza

I think your dad stole that saying from Neil Young ...

You could be right, but I don't think Neil Young was recording at that point. Seriously though, I was just making a joke, I don't remember where or from whom I first heard that saying.

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

Prepping the metal is just as important, if not more so. Removing all the rust, old paint, etc, will provide better adhesion for whichever product you choose. I had the frame sandblasted prior to painting.

Yeah, because I did not think I'd do a shell off. I ground off the rust with a wire brush wheel. Well, several actually.

Originally Posted by Countryboy59

Fluid Film or, if you can find it, Waxoyl.

Originally Posted by r carl

I make my own waxoyl.

Aren't those products mostly an inside the panel treatment for trucks and autos? And a more of a rust prevent-er?

Originally Posted by 1973Argosy

I like por15

Yeah, a lot of people do, in this case I felt I'd be better off with the Corroseal. Plus I intend to use a really tough top coat paint to seal it. I'm looking into Coal Tar Epoxy, but I need some edgumakation first.
If anyone has used this product please give me some lern'n.

[Re-Pete]

Here's a link to a very good AirForums post / thread on rust converters. Follow the link in the #1 post.

[Countryboy59]

Originally Posted by r carl

I make my own waxoyl.

Not sure why that stuff never caught on. It has to be redone, but my 6 year old F350 is still like new underneath. I use it only for camping now, so it only had one season of salt exposure.

It’s in such good shape, rather than buy a new diesel I’m going to have an International 6 cyl diesel swapped in this winter.

[r carl]

Originally Posted by Countryboy59

Not sure why that stuff never caught on. It has to be redone, but my 6 year old F350 is still like new underneath. I use it only for camping now, so it only had one season of salt exposure.

It’s in such good shape, rather than buy a new diesel I’m going to have an International 6 cyl diesel swapped in this winter.

I just use a solvent sprayer to apply it.

[ns1113]

Has anyone had any experience with Ospho for prep and Acrolon 218 epoxy? Its a commercial grade product from Sherman Willams that is used on bridges, ships, offshore platforms etc.. seems like it might be a good product for rust prevention on frames.

https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/eng.../acroltech.pdf

Quoted from link above

Specifically formulated for in-shop applications.
For use over prepared metal and masonry surfaces in industrial
environments such as:
• Structural steel • Tank exteriors
• Rail cars and locomotives • Pipelines
• Conveyors • Ships
• Bridges
• Wind Towers - onshore and offshore
• Offshore platforms - exploration and production
• Suitable for use in USDA inspected facilities
• Conforms to AWWA D102 Outside Coating Systems #4 (OCS-4),
#5 (OCS-5) & #6 (OCS-6)
• Acceptable for use in high performance architectural applications
• A component of INFINITANK

[WaterPoppy]

Originally Posted by ns1113

Has anyone had any experience with Ospho for prep and Acrolon 218 epoxy? Its a commercial grade product from Sherman Willams that is used on bridges, ships, offshore platforms etc.. seems like it might be a good product for rust prevention on frames.



https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/eng.../acroltech.pdf



Quoted from link above



Specifically formulated for in-shop applications.

For use over prepared metal and masonry surfaces in industrial

environments such as:

• Structural steel • Tank exteriors

• Rail cars and locomotives • Pipelines

• Conveyors • Ships

• Bridges

• Wind Towers - onshore and offshore

• Offshore platforms - exploration and production

• Suitable for use in USDA inspected facilities

• Conforms to AWWA D102 Outside Coating Systems #4 (OCS-4),

#5 (OCS-5) & #6 (OCS-6)

• Acceptable for use in high performance architectural applications

• A component of INFINITANK

Yes, and no. Ospho works great. Used it on I-beam on Hatteras Island. Epoxy...always used tnemec on water tower exterior, not SW.