what kind of epoxy for floors?

[durans54]

What are you guys using for epoxy when replacing the floors? Ive seen some mentions 2 part epoxys etc.

[bjond]

I've used CPES from the Rot Doctor ( ordered via internet)

http://www.rotdoctor.com/

and GIT ROT from West Marine (bought locally)

http://www.boatbuilding.net/article..../05/01/1241221

Both are thin 2 part epoxies that soak into new wood and seal the wood. Both can also be used to fix dry rotted wood for after it drys the soft wood becomes hard again.

[LI Pets]

are you looking to do a spot or coat the whole floor?

[durans54]

at least coat the edges, maybe the whole floor

[CanoeStream]

I would say that the adhesive type unfilled two-part epoxy resins can very effectively build a layer on the surface (like boatbuilders' WEST or System Three). Not all epoxies are waterproof but they sure look the same! This type of epoxy minimally penetrates but does a very good job of encapsulating the wood ... up to a point. Whether due to fastener holes or likely eventual wear or anything less than absolute perfect encapsulation, these surface build epoxies will allow water entrance at some point. Trouble builds because the surface layer can hold that water inside the wood for a long time.

A totally different creature are the high-solvent penetrating epoxies that jbond mentions; I heartily agree! They aren't perfect at repairing rotted wood but can stabilize weakened areas. I've also used Rot Doctor in new floor applications near the perimeter and under areas that contain plumbing. Rot Doctor must be used with exceptional ventilation and no flame sources around. Yes, I hedge my bets and then add System Three resin to the top and edge of the floor. This is not a how-to on epoxy. I would recommend that you sign up as a member at www.systemthree.com, which will give you access to their 50 page "The Epoxy Book" as a good primer (downloadable in Adobe Acrobat format).

Epoxy may inhibit adhesion of certain coatings or paints. It is a strong sensitizer and you must keep it off your skin. Do not use power tools on epoxy treated wood unless you use an organic paint spray respirator. To see an example go to www.rockler.com, search on Paint Spray Respirator, item #46383; should also be able to find something like this locally ... at Home Depot?

[LI Pets]

If your going to do it, do it all. West systems is good but MAS systems is just as good at about 1/3 less in cost. You can get it thru Jamestown distrubutors at a good price.

Just mix two parts 2:1 easier than Wests 5:1 roll it out like paint, the whole floor is 20 minutes.

Wear plastic gloves, drys in about an hour, no oder at all no respirator needed. Actone will clean up.

[CanoeStream]

Yes, MAS is another boatbuilder's epoxy of excellent reputation -- but the common surface build epoxies still have their problems. Airstream shell integrity is job number one in maintaining our babies but epoxy is useful insurance for the occasional plumbing problem or shell leak. I will always feel more secure using a penetrating epoxy like Rot Doctor or Gitrot first, then will roughen the surface and apply a surface build product to just the topside and plywood floor edges. I strongly feel that the floor undersides will take care of themselves if you maintain shell/plumbing integrity and the Airstream is not stored around tall grass.

In contrast to the high solvent nature of Rot Doctor or Gitrot, standard epoxies have nothing other than a mild ammonia smell and can be applied without the respiratory protection. Just don't use a power sander, power saw or router on epoxy treated wood without the respirator; heating with tools like these will expose your lungs to the chemicals that we're trying to keep away from skin contact. Once a sensitized rash begins from using epoxy you can never use the product again! I use disposable nitrile gloves for mixing & applying epoxy -- boxes of 100 from the fleet/farm store vet section cost very few dollars.

[prairieschooner]

Take a good look at the West Systems Epoxy. I disagree that it is hard to mix. You simply get the Pumps that meter both parts. Simply 1 pump from both and you have a proper mixture! I use Denatured Alcohol to clean up (much safer and less hazardous than Acetone, etc.)
If you use plastic containers (like butter tubs) you can just break out the residue and reuse the container.
If you are going to saturate the floor then thin out whatever epoxy you use for the first couple of coats and then the last coat full strength.
There are many good epoxies available to us just be sure it is completely waterproof when cured. A good boat building Epoxy will be engineered to be used for underwater applications.