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Old 03-03-2010, 11:04 AM   #21
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A sealed air gap is a very good insulation and Free. The secret is the space has to be SEALED. Just think back to the wooden old windows in your home if you are over 50. They leaked like a sieve around the edges and offered very little insulation.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:14 AM   #22
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If moisture can get in or out it is not insulating.

Here is the comparison of foam insulation to most other types commonly used.
Foam insulation typically is more expensive than fiber insulation. But it's very effective in buildings with space limitations and where higher R-values are needed. Foam insulation R-values range from R-4 to R-6.5 per inch of thickness, which is up to 2 times greater than most other insulating materials of the same thickness.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:29 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
If moisture can get in or out it is not insulating.

Here is the comparison of foam insulation to most other types commonly used.
Foam insulation typically is more expensive than fiber insulation. But it's very effective in buildings with space limitations and where higher R-values are needed. Foam insulation R-values range from R-4 to R-6.5 per inch of thickness, which is up to 2 times greater than most other insulating materials of the same thickness.
Well then one reason.
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:30 PM   #24
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Well then one reason.
Actually I was stating 2 reasons.

The first speaks to the fact that air can not be allowed to move through an insulated area.

The second speaks to the effectiveness of foam insulation when evaluated under controlled conditions.

Both question had been noted above and they will not give you adequate instructions to achieve results at the Big Box Store
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:06 PM   #25
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A sealed air gap is a very good insulation and Free. The secret is the space has to be SEALED. Just think back to the wooden old windows in your home if you are over 50. They leaked like a sieve around the edges and offered very little insulation.
So, are you saying that the insulating job that Airstream did on all of our trailers was in vain? The belly pans all have holes in them. Should they be completely sealed? What have you done with your trailer? What do you suggest for those of us who use our trailers in cold weather? Just curious, not being a smart***.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:33 PM   #26
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I have done nothing.

The insulation installed at the factory is within accepted standards. It is laid over the frame and the floor dropped down on it. This produces an uninterrupted, Sealed Area. The best that manufacturing cost considerations will allow. Not the best science would suggest.

My comments about sealed air pockets and sealing the perimeter of any solid insulation were just to inform anyone considering that type of insulation that there were installation considerations that would normally not be adhered to and thus discount the complete installation. Solid types of insulation are generally 2 to 4 times better than the pink stuff but those results are obtained under controlled installations that insure an effect installation.

If you want to do the best job you would use cork. Cork has the higher rating than Styrofoam but it stinks for a year or 2 after installation.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:18 PM   #27
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Best to do nothing or have rigid board with a air gaps or what? SO, not sure what to do.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:22 PM   #28
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I'm confused too. There must be at least 20 different opinions on how to do the insulation under the floor. I'm in the middle of doing mine (after reading all of the opinions) and am now hoping I've chosen the right one!
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:17 PM   #29
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Becky, What did you choose to do?
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:33 PM   #30
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I'm using Prodex as pictured in #8 of this thread. There was a thread by Zep (I don't know how to post previous threads like some people can) and he showed how he was doing it. If you use the search feature & put in "Prodex" a lot of information on it comes up. I have to remember that this is a trailer & not a life that I'm working on. If it doesn't last for 30 years, oh well, I'll be dead by then!
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:43 PM   #31
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I have to remember that this is a trailer & not a life that I'm working on. If it doesn't last for 30 years, oh well, I'll be dead by then!
Oh NO DOUBT, Althought It seems to take life at times. Your trayler is really good looking Zep is incredible.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:38 PM   #32
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Many of us opt not to use under floor insulation because of it's water retention characteristics.

Kevin
Kevin,If there is no insulation under the floor doesn't it negate the expense and R factor of Prodex on the skin and ceiling? Anyone ever try to drape Prodex or Refletix over the frame rails like they did with the pink stuff?
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:01 AM   #33
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The foam would crush readily under the fasteners torque and cause the floor to have small dished dimples around the fasteners that would increase over time. IF someone would double or triple the number of fasteners and torque them all perfectly it might stop the deformation but its a live and vibrating environment where you want the floor locked down tighter than that.
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