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09-08-2004, 02:49 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 14
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vinyl tile vs. one piece vinyl
if I wanted to replace the floor with a vinyl flooring would it be better to use a one piece unit compared to the tiles. it seems like the tiles would run the risk of getting water under them just from general use, but they may look nicer. as with the one piece you could just lay it down then run a bead of silicon around the parimiter. also has anyone ever had their flooring tear on them. from like sliding a chair across it. it would seem that the tile would be easier to fix in this sort of instance. thanks for all of your guys feed back so far on all my threads. theres nothing like haveing years of experience and a bunch of trail and error that i wont have to go through because of you folks. thanks.
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09-08-2004, 02:57 PM
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#2
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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I put in armstrong stick on tiles a couple of years ago and I don't like them. Some are lifting up, gaps between others. Dirt gets in between when sweeping...
Keep in mind I probably installed it wrong ;-)
I am now researching putting in the sheet vinyl myself. Looks like it will have to have at least one seam in it because it looks like it comes in 12ft widths and I don't want to have a lot of waste. So then the problem of makeing a seam joint work....
Still researching. Looking forward to this thread.
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09-08-2004, 03:16 PM
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#3
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Guest
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Go with one piece. Individual tiles are subject to movement and getting dirt in the seams.
When that happens the floor always looks dirty.
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09-08-2004, 03:26 PM
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#4
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I put in armstrong stick on tiles a couple of years ago and I don't like them. Some are lifting up, gaps between others. Dirt gets in between when sweeping...
Keep in mind I probably installed it wrong ;-)
I am now researching putting in the sheet vinyl myself. Looks like it will have to have at least one seam in it because it looks like it comes in 12ft widths and I don't want to have a lot of waste. So then the problem of makeing a seam joint work....
Still researching. Looking forward to this thread.
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see that is exactly what i was wondering. the tiles seem like it could be a real pain after a few years. it just seemed easier and cheaper. keep me informed on your research and i will do the same for you. the seam seems like it could also be risky if it were done wrong. thanks.
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09-08-2004, 03:27 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craftsman
Go with one piece. Individual tiles are subject to movement and getting dirt in the seams.
When that happens the floor always looks dirty.
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good to know. I have two dogs and they bring in alot of dirt. they are one of the reasons i worry about it tearing also.
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09-08-2004, 03:45 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1989 37' Airstream 370
Beverly Hills
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 66
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I installed the Armstrong Epiq Plus 12" vinyl tiles. They look great and I have had no problems. I think the key to a successful installation is prepping the surface the tiles will bond to. Under no circumstances should you ever attempt to install vinyl floor tiles over OSB ( oriented strand board aka particle board). You're begging to re-do it properly. If your coach has an existing OSB underlayment as mine did, install an underlayment of 5/32 luan plywood over the OSB. Be sure to use galvanized screws ( 1 inchers are fine). Prime the luan with a latex primer. Armstrong's primer product is called S185 and is available at Home Depot and Lowes.
Take your time when installing and butt the joints as tight as possible. Dry fit each piece (whole and cut pieces) with the paper still on before applying to the luan. Don't forget to lay it out before you start laying tile so you don't end up with short crappy looking pieces on the edges or around the steps. My joints are almost indistinguishable and the tile holds tighter than Dick's hat band.
Hope this helps.........
__________________
Nick Danger, Third Eye
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09-08-2004, 03:49 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Then I have a deal for you
Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
...So then the problem of makeing a seam joint work....
Still researching. Looking forward to this thread.
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Well, in that case, allow me to brag/lament that I wanted no seams, and bought enough of the 12 foot roll to accomplish my madness.
If seams do not bother you, I have 20+ feet of high quality vinyl on a four foot roll left over that I will send you for the cost of shipping.
Check my photos and see if you're interested.
I'm funny about things like seams, but I'm serious about giving the rest away; It goes against my grain to throw things like that away. But I will after I get tired of moving it out of the way
Tom
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09-08-2004, 04:05 PM
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#8
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Thanks for the offer Tom.
But I'm with you. Don't really want seams. But I maybe able to live with one depending on the cost savings.
Looks like you did a really nice job on your floor install. Looks great!
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09-08-2004, 04:44 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
...Under no circumstances should you ever attempt to install vinyl floor tiles over OSB ( oriented strand board aka particle board)...
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Mr. Danger (aka third eye),
OSB is not the same as particle board. OSB is big pieces of wood, particle board is sawdust. Vinyl floor works fine over OSB (look at new Airstreams). Particle board is an extremely poor choice for an Airstream no matter what the floor covering is.
Tom
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09-08-2004, 06:56 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Airstream - Other
Airstream - Other
North Central Texas
, USA
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,003
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No adhesive, no matter?
My '04 has a one-piece/seemless vinyl 'faux-wood' floor from the factory, but it is NOT fixed to the sub-floor with anything other than gravity, friction, & the interior components of the trailer holding it in place. I'm no expert on this, but I don't think it matters what type plywood, or any type of wood, is under a benign vinyl floor covering provided it is acceptably smooth to the user??..
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09-08-2004, 08:16 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1995 30' Limited
Ashland
, Missouri
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,610
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We just went through that same dilemma after having a leak from our toilet pedal valve that put the final ax on the loathed bathroom carpet. Anticipating problems with multi tiles, edges, gaps, and so on, we selected a base line, inexpensive sheet vinyl, added a slight subfloor to even up all surfaces, and then put down quarterrouond to polish the effect. What did look awful, now looks clean, fresh, and easy care. Hardest parts? Getting the carpet removed up to the edge of walls, doorways, and then getting the vinyl to fit well under the sliding doorway between bath and bedroom. It's done, and looks great!
__________________
maxandgeorgia
1995 Airstream Classic Limited 30' ~ Gypsy
1978 Argosy Minuet, 6.0~Minnie/GPZWGN
Chev Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison, 4X4, Crew Cab
WBCCI #5013 AIR #2908
WDCU
Go, Mizzou...Tigers on the prowl!
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09-08-2004, 09:02 PM
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#12
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,718
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vinyl tile vs. one piece vinyl
I too, have been exceptionally well satisfied with the sheet vinyl installation in my '64 Overlander. Three years ago, I had Fowler Interiors of Symsonia, Kentucky refurbish the interior of my Overlander and this included the floor covering. Upon the advice of Arlene, I chose a very heavy-duty industrial grade Congoleum sheet vinyl and to keep costs down a single seam was used. The subfloor was carefully prepared with a thin luan underlayment covering the original plywood subfloor - - the seams as well as any imperfections in the luan were filled with materials recommended by the flooring manufacturer. To this day, that seam is nearly invisible, and the installation looks as good today as it did three years ago - - it also has proven to be totally Chihuahua-proof.
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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09-08-2004, 09:09 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Nick -- You wouldn't happen to know a Betty Jo Bieloski? It's good to run into somebody else in their mid-50's. No-o-o-o, it's GREAT!!!
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09-08-2004, 11:51 PM
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#14
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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What's the difference between sheet vinyl and linoleum?
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09-09-2004, 12:56 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
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Quote:
What's the difference between sheet vinyl and linoleum?
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Linoleum is made from natural products - sawdust, linseed oil & a jute backing.
Sheet vinyl is made from synthetic man-made products - usually layers of vinyl & paper or soft-plastics or solid vinyl. Early sheet vinyls may have included aesbetos too.
Linoleum is the 'old stuff in your grandma's house', sheet vinyl is the man-made 'modern' replacement.
Sheet vinyl is less expensive than linoleum in most cases.
Shari
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09-09-2004, 05:30 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Linoleum is made from natural products - sawdust, linseed oil & a jute backing.
Sheet vinyl is made from synthetic man-made products - usually layers of vinyl & paper or soft-plastics or solid vinyl. Early sheet vinyls may have included aesbetos too.
Linoleum is the 'old stuff in your grandma's house', sheet vinyl is the man-made 'modern' replacement.
Sheet vinyl is less expensive than linoleum in most cases.
Shari
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Wow, thanks for the lesson. Seems to always be something new to learn here.
__________________
Just adding my 2¢ worth
John G
___________________________
1975 31ft Sovereign International
........Rear Bath Double Bed Model
Tow Vehicle:1999 GMC Serria SLE Classic 1500 5.7Ltr
System: Jordon 2020 Ultima Brake Controller
Hook-Up: Equalizing Hitch and Sway Bar
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05-25-2005, 08:33 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2006 19' Safari SE
NW of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 987
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sheets vs. tile
How much of the interior has to be removed to put down sheet linoleum? We already have the sofa/beds out; would we also need to remove the interior partition walls? It's looking more and more like our partition walls will have to be replaced, so should we wait and do the floor when we have them out?
__________________
Doug & Jamie, AIR #650
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05-25-2005, 08:57 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1961 22' Safari
Vienna
, Virginia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 579
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No, you don't have to remove the partitions. Just take a chisel and chip out the old tile so it is snug against the walls. I did floor installation for a whole summer in high school--and this is common practice (or at least it was in 1980)! If you can get a tight fit with the new flooring, you won't be able to see the old tile at all. If there is a gap, you can always cover up with a bit of molding.
Mary
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05-25-2005, 09:06 AM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2006 19' Safari SE
NW of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 987
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no tile; carpet
We never had tile; we removed an old carpet that was laid on the plywood with tack strips (another 70s thing I guess). The only thing around the partitions is the metal strip that's holding them there. If we put down tiles, we can work around that, but if we go with a linoleum sheet, I'm thinking it won't be easy to cut around the partitions. Also, how would we get the partitions out later after the floor is down? (Hmmm, was that a self-answering question?)
__________________
Doug & Jamie, AIR #650
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05-25-2005, 10:18 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Time and effort and anxiety spent cutting around stuff vs. time spent taking out the stuff and putting it back it.
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