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Old 06-04-2013, 02:16 PM   #21
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1976 Argosy 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes View Post
That looks pretty dang good.
Thanks! Putting in the work. I just hope that the screws tapping into the frame are enough to hold it all together...
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:35 PM   #22
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1981 31' Excella II
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There are two big bolts in each corner and the steel hold down plate should be attached to the frame. I think it is a little different than in the back. The steel plate may just go straight down and attach to the cross member instead of folding under like at the back. You need to make sure that the two big bolts are there and that they go through the floor. The hold down plate needs to be attached to the frame.

Perry
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:50 AM   #23
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Perry, I have hold down plates in the rear but there were none up front. I plan on reimplementing them in the rear... Do you see any danger in using the machine screws and doubling or tripling up on them as opposed to the original bolts? I am talking actual danger as in the trailer ripping off the frame going down the highway...
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:17 PM   #24
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The steel hold down plate is there in the center. How was it originally attached. You could have problems with front end separation if you don't have the shell bolted to the frame via the hold down plate and the two bolts on either side of the hold down plate. I have never had the front of one of these apart and I don't know the differences between Argosy and Airstreams. I do know that bolts should go through the C-channel, floor, hold down plate, and frame. I would not use anything smaller than 1/4" machine screws through the hold down plate. Maybe someone will chime in who has delt with front end separation. It would be that red plate in this photo of yours. I don't think the deck screws are going to get it. Are they just going through the C-channel into the floor?

Perry

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Old 06-05-2013, 12:27 PM   #25
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I understand now. I thought that you were referring to the individual plates sized at about 1" x 2" that help distribute the weight...

As for the front hold down plate, I have 6 of these screws through washers that go through the C-Channel, floor, hold down plate and then they are tapped into the frame. I plan to do the same in the rear. How does this sound? Secure...?
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:50 PM   #26
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Were there two large bolts that went through the frame? They should be on the outside edge of the two vertical posts that are on each side of the hold down plate. You could call the factory and they could tell you how your model trailer should be held together. Some folks had good luck calling the factory for technical issues such as this. I looked at the repair manuals last night and they did not provide much detail as to wear the bolts go. The disadvantage to not pulling the skin at the front is you can't get to alot of these bolts. You can tap the frame rails for 1/4-20 but that is not going to be a very strong connection nor are self tapping screws. What you have done with the floor looks pretty good but lets make sure you do it right and don't end up with a mess on your hands. I think on my trailer and from the looks of it, your trailer, that the hold down plate is T-shaped and then the bottom is bent in the shape of an L. The ears of the T-would then connect to the frame on outside of those two posts. The main attach points would then be those two big bolts I have been telling you about. These would go through the C-channel the floor the hold down plate then the frame. I think the ends of the frame members are open so you can get to the nuts on the bottom. Are those bolts still there or did you remove them?

Perry
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:44 PM   #27
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Yes my Hold Down Plate is T Shaped with and L bend at the bottom where it attaches to the frame and floor and C Channel... I believe that there were two Elevators bolts at the points you mention. I have cut all E-Bolts and I am replacing them all with the machine screws mentioned in post #25. My philosophy being that even though the machine screws are not as strong as the E-Bolts, I can double up on them to try to match the original strength. I am a little worried about them rattling or shaking during movement, so I plan to add lock-tite to keep them in place.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:21 PM   #28
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I think you can remove the belly band and remove some pop rivets and the skin will fold down enough get to the frame rails to put a bolt through. You could even attach the hold down plate directly to the frame and do it that way. The sheet metal screws worry me a good bit.

Perry
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:04 PM   #29
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Ok I just talked to TOP (Lance) and he says that the hold down plate is welded to the frame. If this is the case, then you are all right with what you have. I would verify this.

Perry
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:24 PM   #30
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Great to hear! Thanks for your help!
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:51 AM   #31
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Can you see where the hold down plate is welded to the frame?

Perry
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:33 AM   #32
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'L' Shaped Steel Plate...

Just to clarify things about the 'L' shaped steel plate, front & rear, and the bolts securing the shell to the frame, at least on my trailer.

I am currently replacing the back sheet of plywood on the rear of my '76 Argosy and this steel plate is NOT welded to the frame...only bolted with 1/4" hardware and riveted to the shell.

There are also two 3/8" bolts that have steel pads that were bolted through this steel plate, see picture. In the picture you can see the corner of the steel plate.

When I put everything back together, I plan to move those 3/8" bolts just a little (outbound) to pick-up the frame rail that extends out to the bumper. that way I know the shell is securly fastened to the frame.

Chris
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #33
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Well are you sure the front hold down plate is not welded? What you are describing is how I understood it but I have never had the front apart. I know the back plate is not welded but held on with screws.

Perry
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newsgauger View Post
I am currently replacing the back sheet of plywood on the rear of my '76 Argosy and this steel plate is NOT welded to the frame...only bolted with 1/4" hardware and riveted to the shell.

There are also two 3/8" bolts that have steel pads that were bolted through this steel plate, see picture. In the picture you can see the corner of the steel plate.
This is the exact same setup as mine in the rear. I have not checked on the welded front plate yet. Everything is already back down and secured at this point. Anyone else have any info on this from experience?
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:43 PM   #35
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As I did'ent have your rotting floor issue, I went in from below....dropped the belly pan, aft banana wraps and side raps.
My frame, axel, wheel wells etc were just starting to show signes of rust so I figured it would be best to "nip it in the bud".
It was not too hard (except I did it in the middle of winter on a cold concrete floor).
GO WITH FOIL BACKED STYRO FOAM - I did and I installed it by cutting over size a smidgen and "bowing it" between lateral frames....it's not going anywhere and if the floor ever gets wet it'll be able to dry out. Here's pics.
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:46 PM   #36
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try again with the pics. Still need to paint the new side wraps and get the trim back on.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #37
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Where are all the shell off gurus when we need them.

Perry
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:01 AM   #38
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Don't See 3/8" Bolts...

Crabbey1,

I revisited all of you pictures of the front and I do not see where the two 3/8" bolts and hold down plates are. Does this mean there were none on your trailer?

Are they only in the back?

Chris

PS Nice job on replacing the plywood floor and re-insulating.
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:21 AM   #39
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If you look at the picture you posted in post #32, the small rusted plate that you are pointing out is not present in the front of my trailer. There were however elevator bolts, one in each corner. It does however have a hold down plate as we discussed in post #27 that is riveted to the shell and then apparently it is welded to the frame (I did not verify this before securing everything down)... Hope that helps.

Thanks for the kind words.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:06 AM   #40
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I am doing a shell on rehab-68 GT, I left the middle third of the belly pans attached
I por-15ed from the top -and bottom where I could, I was concerned about re-insulating from the top as well- which would soak water and rats, so I left it un- insulated since I live in Florida, I now see that if I ever want to insulate I could do it later from underneath(A lot of box camper floors are not insulated). I now know it is not that big a deal to remove belly skins= a drill and a couple of hours and they're off.
I will tell you though, none of my side bolts went through the outriggers and the channel! My origianal outriggers were about an inch shy of the edge of the body anyway (originally) I would hope it was through bolted in the back and the front (my back frame was gone and the front piece of subfloor I left in.
I through-bolted a few side riggers and the very back C to the frame, but most of the sides are just through the plywood and then elevator bolted through the riggers as close to them as possible, the shell aint goin nowhere, it's better attached than before. I was amazed at how few attachment points there were.
Have y'all noticed the staples the factory put through the C channel? I guess they were mostly for positioning??
Good job-- hope that helps.
Has anyone noticed how por 15 soaks into plywood and gets hard as a rock and water sheds right off!?-I thought about using it as an edge treatment.
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