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jsapp · 04-25-2011, 05:17 AM

Decided to rip out my carport before going out this thursday. Bad choice! Floor rot around door threshold, tail section, and a wavy section in front of the fridge. Did I mention the toilet floor seal also??

Gringo · 04-25-2011, 05:26 AM

But what about the carport?

dwightdi · 04-25-2011, 05:32 AM

Carpet may conceal many defects, that you may not want to see, and means a lot of work. Looks like you have a bit of work to do.
Carport is something used to protect your Airstream from the hail.

jsapp · 04-25-2011, 05:38 AM

Sorry about the typo. Autotext can mess you up

**moosetags** · 04-25-2011, 05:41 AM

I'm guessing that 'carport' is supposed to be 'carpet'.

Brian

jsapp · 04-25-2011, 06:06 AM

Yes, I guess my main question is how to rip up the usb decking. Do I set the depth on the skillsaw to 5/8"and start cutting? I know it is best to gut it and lay a whole new floor but I know I can't complete a project like that before thursday...

blickcd · 04-25-2011, 06:31 AM

I have removed sections of subfloor by setting the depth of the saw as you described. My subfloor was 1/2" thick so be sure you measure first. I also set my saw at just a hair under 1/2" depth because I knew I'd be passing over frame members and didn't want to damage them or the blade.

You will need a hammer and chisel to get any corners. Not too tough though, especially if the wood is rotted.

jsapp · 04-25-2011, 06:35 AM

Thx, blickcd. That sounds like a good starting point.

jsapp · 04-25-2011, 01:41 PM

Are the phillips head bolts through the osb floor screwed into the frame and crossmembers?

clancy_boy · 04-25-2011, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsapp

Are the phillips head bolts through the osb floor screwed into the frame and crossmembers?

There are - self tapping screws to go through the wood and into the frame. Around the parimeter are bolts that hold the body to the floor to the frame - you must have access inside the walls and under the floor to get to those. BTW they bend the bolts past the nut to keep them from backing off........

LOTS OF BEER....

68 TWind · 04-25-2011, 02:31 PM

Get yourself one of those oscillating saws (aka multi-master type) from Harbor freight. You can go along the top of the rails and outriggers with excellent control. Angle it down and the edge of the blade will just vibrate along the metal. Just follow your pencil lines to day centered. Also, the kerf is much smaller. I tried both but the vibrating saw was by far the best and easiest. I think they are around $39 buck. It is also great for getting the rotten pieces our of the c-channel and it is a great sander too. If you make your cuts along the rails and outriggers and use the self tapping screw you will save a lot of time. HD has the smaller version of the floor screws and Fastenal has several sizes.

jsapp · 04-26-2011, 03:34 AM

I cut around the toilet flange last night with some degree of success. It's obvious the only way to repair this correctly is to remove everything. I cannot do that much in the few working hours I have left so I think I will try to floor it for the trip and remove it when I get back...

jsapp · 04-26-2011, 12:59 PM

I think it will be best to patch my floor and enjoy it for the summer and then strip it down to the frame during the winter.

Michigander · 04-26-2011, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsapp

I think it will be best to patch my floor and enjoy it for the summer and then strip it down to the frame during the winter.

Sounds like a plan. Good luck and happy camping.

jsapp · 04-26-2011, 10:07 PM

Night 2: laid a patch over the black tank. The corner nearest the middle rear of the trailer was over the black tank with no under support so I had to use a block on top of the deck. It is hideous but it is only to get me by until the complete resto. I also felt ambitious enough to cut 5.5"from the threshold of the door. I will complete this patch tomorrow and lay the floating floor. I have put in 3 hours tonight and hope for 5 tomorrow.