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Old 11-23-2004, 09:32 PM   #1
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Time involved to replace floor?

I am curious to hear from those that have done it how long it takes on average to replace plywood floor on lets say a 22' trailer.
I understand there are way to many variables to determine how long the full job will take as there is no way to determine what needs to be done beforehand and of course the weather etc...
But if you had to guess from start to finish (assuming the person doing the job is capable with all tools and space) how long would it take to remove shell from gutted trailer, r&r plywood and reattach shell bellypan, and interior skin.
I want to know your opinion in hours, not days as some may consider 12 hours, a day, and others 6.
Impossable question I know but I am looking for a ballpark figure to start with.
I can guess at frame repair and cleaning painting etc...
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:58 PM   #2
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I would figure 150 hours straight time, assuming you re-use all materials (except the floor), and make no electrical, plumbing, or running gear changes. No time allowed for trips to the hardware store.
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Old 11-24-2004, 10:05 AM   #3
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1963 22' Safari
Broomfield , Colorado
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I replaced the floor in my 63 safari - shell off.

4 - hours to remove interior sheets and insulation (trailer was gutted)
12 - hours to install cribbing and lift the shell off and slide out frame.
Frame repairs - welding and sandblasting were contracted out.
4 - hours to repaint frame
16 - hours to insulate and redeck floor
24 - hours to recenter and align shell and floor channel (I had no original floor to use as a template)
40 - installing bellypan - this was way harder than anticipated - compound bends suck
4 - hours to lower shell and secure to floor channel
8 - hours caulking and riveting, and shaving rivets around floor channel.

This was me working mostly alone, on a sloped driveway. I had help raising and lowering the shell and bolting the deck down. This was a slow process for me primarily due to logistics (slope driveway sucked) and due to lack of knowledge on how best to proceed and even more time lost since I did not have an original floor to use as a template.

The advise I have recieved here in this forum has been awesome! I did not inlcude the time spent when I was stumped, stopped working, and ran in the house to post a question here - very quick responses by the way.

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Old 11-24-2004, 10:11 AM   #4
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1963 22' Safari
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 48
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Sorry, on my first post, I meant to add that Don's estimate of 150 hours is right on - when I add the helper hours, and look back on how my time I spent scratching my head trying to figure out how best to proceed, I am easily over 150 hours.
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Old 11-24-2004, 02:21 PM   #5
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1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
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Ways to save time...

Looking at the numbers posted here I can see a few ways to save some time if the condition of the frame is such that you do not need to pull it entirely out from under the body. The approach that I have documented elsewhere in these forums for doing a shell on floor replacement takes a lot less time for building the supporting framework, no time to lift off the body and no time to set the body back into place. By Kevins's accounting that could save nearly 40 hours off of the full body off approach he took. Also I found I was able to use the body itself as a template for the shape of the curved ends. I made a patern out of stiff poster board by cutting it until it fit the curve of the body as it set in place over the old floor. I did first check to see that the body at least was centered over the frame and that the side was not unusually bowed out. The front curve on my AS is not the same as the rear curve either by the way. All of the floor panels down the middle of the AS are the same overall width so I was able to cut them all to the same width(once I figured out a good place to get an accurate measurement).

Working on a sloped driveway is indeed a pain. My driveway drops about 9" per 8' of run. My AS is jacked up to about 3' at the back bumper and I can barely crawl underneath at the front end. Doing a full shell off approach would have been a real pain for me. I have been very satisfied with the shell on approach. For the small amount of welding that needed to be done I was able to call in a welder that makes house calls. I did want to sand blast the frame but found that my air compressor does not have enough umph to do it. So I knocked off all the loose rust with a wire brush and sand paper. I painted the frame myself with Hammerite anit_rust paint that supposedly combines with any remaining rust as part of the finish. The results are not as perfect as I would prefer but they should last a long time never the less.

You can check out some of the details in the following location:

Some information about a new material I am using for my floor (title = Body and banana wrap on floor replacement technique.) Look especially at the first post where I added a drawing. At that time I did not fully understand the u-channel/c-channel construction. (title = Shell Off vs. Shell On Summary) Look especially at my detailed progress report in post number 74. The bracing that I used there works great and does not require all that much in the way of materials. There are photos in my gallery that go along with that report. The technique does not require lifting the body entirely off of the frame.

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