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Old 09-28-2008, 05:11 PM   #121
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1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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Interior pics and some emblem painting

I have three new fans on top. The interior is complete except a small amout of trim. I have a new intel converter installed and it is working great. Everything is working and we have pulled it a few times to a local park. I am saving for axels and have enough for one axel. I took pics of the parts of my Zipp Dee awning and I am going to price missing parts and replacement parts. Check out the pics. We really love the laminate floor, shades, curtains, radio, everything we are very happy with our coach.

Lothlorian

Brian
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Old 09-28-2008, 05:14 PM   #122
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I forgot to show you the floor. Laminate is the way to go.

Lothlorian

Brian
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Old 09-28-2008, 09:06 PM   #123
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Looks great, Brian, you've come a long way. Glad to hear you're enjoying it out on the road!

-Marcus
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Old 10-17-2011, 04:27 PM   #124
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1973 27' Overlander
Talent , Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Ok airstreamers here is what I did today. I installed the nyloboard and bolts. I used the 1/4" and 3/8" bolts. I also installed the other bolts to the added frame so I could screw the nyloboard to the cut end of the floor. I also tried to take a picture of one of the extra bracket I installed on the outside of the frame. It came out fuzzy. Just added reinforcement to the floor so it does not rock and roll. Only my wife and I are allowed to rock and roll as we are camping. Check out the pics. I also added a butt plate.

The nyloboard is made of recycled carpet which is melted and made into nylon board. It does not rust. works like plywood.

SIU Bound

Brian
These pics were invaluable to demystify several things. Hi, we are in the process of replacing our 27' 1973 Overlander and have been going really slowly as I no not know what is under the rotten floor. So far not much. How did you support the Nyloboard?? I see the "cleets" but what else did you do to get good support? Perhaps that is the "fuzzy" picture you referred to.

I see this post was over three years ago, so perhaps I'll email you as I could use some reassurance ;-)

Richard and Della
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:59 AM   #125
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1973 27' Overlander
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Ok airstreamers here is what I did today. I installed the nyloboard and bolts. I used the 1/4" and 3/8" bolts. I also installed the other bolts to the added frame so I could screw the nyloboard to the cut end of the floor. I also tried to take a picture of one of the extra bracket I installed on the outside of the frame. It came out fuzzy. Just added reinforcement to the floor so it does not rock and roll. Only my wife and I are allowed to rock and roll as we are camping. Check out the pics. I also added a butt plate.

The nyloboard is made of recycled carpet which is melted and made into nylon board. It does not rust. works like plywood.

SIU Bound

Brian
Hi again Brian; Well I will take your advice today and remove the bumper and drop the belly skins. I am looking forward to the end of "dis-mantlement" and the beginning of construction ;-) In the three photos in this of your posts, I am assuming in the third photo, looking up at your installed nyloboard, we are viewing from the rear, is that correct? I'm looking for that infamous "butt plate" that I can't seem to understand.

Our Overlander has the rear bumper storage box extension, if that makes any difference in my lack of understanding. The waste lines are taken through that area and exits on the rear street side.

THanks again,
Richard
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:04 PM   #126
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Rich,

The butt plate referred to is the strip of plywood that was installed below the joint in the two pieces of nyloboard. Another name for it might be spline. There should be enough support from the floor frame all the way around the edges of the pieces of flooring installed in this thread. Opening up the belly pan in that area will answer a lot of questions for you.

Malcolm
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:16 PM   #127
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Della:

That wood butt plate was removed because the box for the black tank would not fit, because the wood was to thick. That is why I went with a thin piece of steel instead. The steel is connected to the floor and sits on the black tank metal box. I have the floor, butt plate and metal box nice and tight where nothing will move.

Brian
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:47 PM   #128
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Rich,

The butt plate referred to is the strip of plywood that was installed below the joint in the two pieces of nyloboard. Another name for it might be spline. There should be enough support from the floor frame all the way around the edges of the pieces of flooring installed in this thread. Opening up the belly pan in that area will answer a lot of questions for you.

Malcolm
Thanks Maocolm; I was used to "spline". I'm finding that perhaps I need to dig into my Overlander a little more aggressively, as there seems to be a question with every rivet I attempt to remove (are those rivets holding the belly pans together bigger than the interior rivets?? They're not coming out like before). And does the middle rear belly pan (not the bumper storage belly pan) go completely under the rear jacks, or do I stop just shy of that support/frame in order to just let that pan down? Some day this will all seem elementary I'm sure. All this comes from thinking we were going to just remodel the kitchen ;-)

Thanks for your post
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:56 PM   #129
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1973 27' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Della:

That wood butt plate was removed because the box for the black tank would not fit, because the wood was to thick. That is why I went with a thin piece of steel instead. The steel is connected to the floor and sits on the black tank metal box. I have the floor, butt plate and metal box nice and tight where nothing will move.

Brian
Hi again Brian;

Can you see my post to malcolm? I now know of the butt plate of which you are talking and it's all making sense. That large belly pan (center rear) appears to go under the rear support jacks. Is that correct? And (man I ask a lot of question) how is the plywood I am removing attached to the supports below other than the two bolts at the outside edges?

I'll stop for now ;-)

Richard (and Della)
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:08 AM   #130
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Della:

I was very green and new with working on these trailers. I replaced the floor and the black tank and boy was it a learning experience. I just took some tin snips and cut the belly pan in half. I riveted it all back together when I was finished. I riveted the belly pan and then put another piece of aluminum over the repair. It worked and has for about 4 years. I used expanding foam for any cracks. Nobody can tell unless they get underneath.

Brian
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:56 AM   #131
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1973 27' Overlander
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Della:

I was very green and new with working on these trailers. I replaced the floor and the black tank and boy was it a learning experience. I just took some tin snips and cut the belly pan in half. I riveted it all back together when I was finished. I riveted the belly pan and then put another piece of aluminum over the repair. It worked and has for about 4 years. I used expanding foam for any cracks. Nobody can tell unless they get underneath.

Brian
That was the perfect posting, as I have always gone in slowly in new projects to avoid the potential of "if only's" (if only I hadn't done that, now I have to buy a new one) kind of thing. But refreshed I am determined to get that rotten floor OUT, today
Thanks again.
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:43 AM   #132
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Just remember that everybody have their own way of doing things. The reason I cut the belly ban just behind the black tank towards the front was because I was unsure of anything I was doing. If I had to do it all again knowing what I know I would have just drilled rivets and dropped it.

I am really glad I went with nyloboard for the bathroom because it will never rot. My cut up scraps have been in the backyard for several years and they are still as good as new. Here is where my trailer spends most of its time these days. I have a feeling it will start to see more action because my daughter and her fiancee want to try camping in it. My daughter is sick of tents.

OOps can't send pics.. I have used my quota. I have to pay $20.00

Brian
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:26 PM   #133
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Richard,

If I remember correctly the support jacks in the back are attached below the belly pan in that area. They should not be hard to remove though.

Usually the rivets holding the belly pan on are 3/16" diameter while the ones in the interior or typically 1/8" in diameter. So to get the belly pan ones out you need a 3/16" diameter drill bit instead of a 1/8" diameter one as would be appropriate for interior rivets. Also if you find a rivet that just spins when you try to drill it out try just chopping the rivet head off. I use a painters tool like the one on the right in the picture below.

I hope that helps...

Malcolm
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:29 PM   #134
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Richard,

If I remember correctly the support jacks in the back are attached below the belly pan in that area. They should not be hard to remove though.

Usually the rivets holding the belly pan on are 3/16" diameter while the ones in the interior or typically 1/8" in diameter. So to get the belly pan ones out you need a 3/16" diameter drill bit instead of a 1/8" diameter one as would be appropriate for interior rivets. Also if you find a rivet that just spins when you try to drill it out try just chopping the rivet head off. I use a painters tool like the one on the right in the picture below.

I hope that helps...

Malcolm
THanks Malcolm;
I am slowly learning all these things, including chopping off the rivet heads. So, when one replaces the rivets, do the "shafts" of the old hole just get pushed out with the new, of does one drill a new hole?

thanks again,
Richard
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:23 PM   #135
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Richard,

Usually the old rivet shaft falls out of the hole - or inside of the wall. Sometimes a little persuasion is needed is all. You can typically use the old rivet holes. I took all of my interior skins out of my 1973 31' Airstream so I could install new insulation and check all of the wiring. I was able to reinstall using the old holes. It helped to use an ice pick to pull the old holes into alignment but things went back together surprisingly well with the old rivet holes. The ice pick helps with knocking out the old rivet shafts too by the way.

One note of caution if you take all the interior skins out. The interior skins do provide some support for the frame so you need to support the frame front and back before you take the skins out. Otherwise things might sag and it will be much harder to get the skins to align with the original holes.

Malcolm
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