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Old 05-03-2008, 07:03 PM   #81
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Brian, your DC stuff should work even if you remove the battery (when connected to shore power and the rectifier turned on, of course). Is any of your DC stuff working, other than the lights? Which lights don't work? Did they ever work? You may have answered that before, I just can't remember at the moment. I still have all of that wiring exposed if you need me to check something, post a picture, etc. Just lemme know what you need.

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Old 05-04-2008, 03:33 AM   #82
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Converter Blowing fuses

Jim:

My converter is blowing the fuse which are attached to the battery positive. As soon as I hook up the battery it blows. I went over all the wiring a 100 times by myself with the help of a friend and we came to the conclusion everything is hooked up correctly. I am taking the converter out today and taking the fuse panel off to see if the wires are connected correctly.

I had our automotive teacher who's expertise is electrical wiring put it together for me. He said he tested all the connections and they were fine. I for the life of me cannot figure out why it is blowing that AUG 50 amp fuse that the red wire is attached to.

Brian
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:46 AM   #83
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Have you solved your DC problem? Battery? Converter? or a short?

What did you finally go with on the AC? 30 or 50 amp?

Geo...
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:21 AM   #84
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Yes and NO;

I took it to Camping World and had one of the tech look at it. He took his time and really gave me great customer service. He explained to me how the converter worked. I learned about the rectifier etc. I took it a part and put the hot and the negative in the correct locations ( wiring was wrong ). I put those wires were they were supposed to go. I was told the blue wire was supposed to hook to any bolt that was not for electricity (ground I think) and then I have a green wire that I do not know where it goes. It is part of the plug. I guess that is a ground.

I have a parallax 3020 converter that I am trying to wire to my Univolt fuse.

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Old 05-11-2008, 07:40 PM   #85
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Humm.....

The large guage Blue wire (I think #10 guage) is actually the 12v positive wire and the White wire is the negative. IF we are talking about the blue and white wires that coming out of the hole in the wall and then connecting to the front of your rectifier. Just an FYI, the white wire in mine is always the ground.

I'm going to go out to the camper and take a few pictures and post them. It just so happens that I'm putting the walls back in at the moment and at the Univolt wiring bundle as we speak (so to speak).

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Old 05-11-2008, 08:47 PM   #86
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In this first pic, this is how the wiring bundle looks coming out of the wall below your bathtub. My walls are not all in and the bathtub isn't either, so it doesn't look like yours at the moment. Note the heavy guage Blue and White wires.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:50 PM   #87
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The Blue and White wires then run over to your Univolt (or whatever you've replaced it with). Blue is normally the 12v positive, White is normally the 12v negative.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:21 AM   #88
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Jim:

The wiring I am refering to is the wiring in the new parrallax 3020 converter. I took a picture of the wiring of the old univolt before I pulled the converter out. I use that as my refrence when I will put it back together. I need to know the wiring to the new converter. I will call parrallax today.

I am stripping off the old weather stripping on the screen door and it does not want to come off. The old gasket came off without any problems. What did you use to get the old weather stripping off?

Work has slowed down on the trailer until I get out of school. I teach and this time of the year is really crazy. My energy level has not been there because the kids know the end is close and they have been bouncing off the walls. I teach seniors.

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Old 05-18-2008, 06:11 PM   #89
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Projects picking up

Today I was able to fix the converter and it works. I put new weather stripping and gaskets on all the doors. My wife cleaned the screen door and we put in a new mosquito slide on the screen door. I have all my electricity complete. Things are coming together nicely. I am about ready to order new axels and new tires. Once that is complete I will have the RV center put in the new pex pipe and hot water heater. I think I will be able to use it this summer.

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Old 05-19-2008, 11:14 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
Today I was able to fix the converter and it works. I put new weather stripping and gaskets on all the doors. My wife cleaned the screen door and we put in a new mosquito slide on the screen door. I have all my electricity complete. Things are coming together nicely. I am about ready to order new axels and new tires. Once that is complete I will have the RV center put in the new pex pipe and hot water heater. I think I will be able to use it this summer.

Brian
Congratulations! It is very nice to reach milestones and be able to move on to the next step.

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Old 05-26-2008, 01:41 PM   #91
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New accomplishments

I decided to resand and give already painted bathroom parts another coat. I was glad I did. It came out looking great. We used Lowes Porcelain white epoxy paint. I did all the sanding and steel wool and my wife did the painting.

I finished the plumbing for my black tank and all bathroom drain pipes. I started to put the trunk back together and it looks pretty easy. I have a Question about the bottom part of the trunk. This is the floor with the drain hole with a gasket. Do I use self setting screws and screw it down to the frame which holds the black tank? I know I will rivet it to the belly pan when I put that back together, but I am not sure about the 1/8" angle iron frame. There are holes that line up with the angle iron and holes farther out which will connect to the belly pan. What do you think I should do?

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Old 05-31-2008, 03:42 PM   #92
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Plumbing pics

Check out this thread I posted on the plumbing page

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...tml#post569410

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Old 05-31-2008, 11:16 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
...I have a Question about the bottom part of the trunk. This is the floor with the drain hole with a gasket. Do I use self setting screws and screw it down to the frame which holds the black tank? I know I will rivet it to the belly pan when I put that back together, but I am not sure about the 1/8" angle iron frame. There are holes that line up with the angle iron and holes farther out which will connect to the belly pan. What do you think I should do?
...
Brian, half my Airstreams are riveted and half have substantial (like 1/4) screws. I think if the belly pan below the tank is continuous from other areas, use rivets. Airstream seemed to have favored screws in the angle iron--you ought to be able to tell from the hole size. If the holes are bigger than 3/16, which is the largest rivet size I have found on my models, then I would bet on screws.

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Old 06-01-2008, 05:46 AM   #94
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Zep:

I went with small sheet metal screws. What a nice feeling putting the whole back end back together. I am getting closer. What did you use on the top trunk hood? I think I am going with sheet metal screws.

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Old 06-01-2008, 10:30 AM   #95
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Quote:
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...What did you use on the top trunk hood? I think I am going with sheet metal screws.
...
I used rivets. The one thing to watch out for is making sure the joint between the shell, as it comes down, and the horizontal sheet that the locker lid attaches to, is well sealed. If not, water runs forward on the horizontal sheet, soaking the underside of the flooring and is a prime source of rot. This is the worst joint in the whole design (speaking of 70's models here) regarding water seepage.

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Old 06-02-2008, 04:24 AM   #96
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Zep:

Should not be a problem because I have Nyloboard for a floor. The metal channel the floor sits in back has two coats of por 15. I still plan on giving every thing a good seal with Vulkem.

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Old 06-03-2008, 03:24 PM   #97
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She is Back together for towing

I have the new tires on, the belly pan up and covering the black tank. Everything is insulated, bananna rap is on, with break lights and turn signals working. I am not finished because I still have to finish the plumbing. I am not knowledgeable enough to finish the plumbing. I am going to tow it to an RV maintenance shop and have them hook up the plumbing. I also want them to set up the pipes so they can become winterized. Once I get it back then I will put the bathroom together and put in the laminate floor. I will be ready to use it with the knowledge some things still have to be done. I will need new fantastic fans, and I am not sure if the appliances will work. We can always use coolers. I know I need axels and they is something I am going to have to get done.

My wife has put in many of the new curtains. They rock.

SIU Bound'

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Old 06-03-2008, 03:52 PM   #98
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My wife has put in many of the new curtains. They rock.

Brian
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:42 PM   #99
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Man you guys really know how to take those trailers apart. Your photos are great.

SIU Bound

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Old 06-06-2008, 06:45 PM   #100
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I did not tow the trailer to an RV shop. I decided to knuckle down and do the plumbing under the sink. I spent hours figuring it out and putting new pipe in. I am pretty sure it is complete. My goal for tomorrow is to get a couple of missing clamps on hoses, finish the outside waterline. and run a hot cold to the outside. I have the regulator installed and that should be it with the plumbing. I do need a new gas valve underneath the the trailer for the hot water heater.

I called around looking for a company to upgrade my propane tanks. I could not find an RV shop or a gas company that would do it. Ameri gas told me it would be cheaper to buy new tanks.

I installed a Fantastic fan yesterday at the aft end of the trailer. I followed Zep's pictures and instructions from his previous postings. It went in without a hitch. I took a Jig Saw and cut the collar to fit the fan.

I got an electic brake switch installed on my truck so I will be able to pull the trailer. It is getting closer to being a functional airstream.

Pictures tomorrow.

SIU Bound

Brian

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