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Old 04-02-2008, 02:53 PM   #61
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Your new subfloor looks great. I have a question since I will be reinstalling mine probably next week. My black tank fits almost flush with the bottom of my 3/4" plywood. Is that splice board going to interfere with that?

My black tank with the galv. box measures 7-1/2" thick and my frame is only 8" top to bottom. With the angle iron that suspends the box it only leaves 3/8" gap at most between the tank and floor.

Maybe that is a difference in year models.
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:38 PM   #62
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SIU stands for Southern Illinois University. I got my B.S. Degree from the school of Agriculture. Great memories and I love the area. I set a goal after college back in the 70's I would retire in the area. I bought land in southern Illnois and that was the motivating factor for buying the airstream. We are going up soon to have electricity run to the land. That way I won't have to worry about generators or batteries.

I installed the new box and frame for the black tank when I put in the nyloboard. The nyloboard did not move very much because of all the support the box gave it. Perfect fit. I dropped the frame and box and measured so the butt plate would not be in the way. The box should not come in contact with the butt plate. If I have to trim some wood off the butt plate then I will do it. After the liquid nails drys and cures I will drill holes through the nyloboard and the butt plate place bolts and lock nuts for added strength. You can see I counter sunk the washers and nuts. I will put some sort of apoxy over all the cracks when I am sure that the floor is finished. I want something that is going to be hard and not give. Any ideas?? Once that is finished I will do the electricty, put my frame and metal box back in, and move to the fans. The nyloboard seems OK but time will tell.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 04-02-2008, 04:34 PM   #63
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for sealing up the cracks I used Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler from WEst Marine for the structural cracks then feathered it out with Bondo (much cheaper but you gotta work FAST!) vhord, yes, that's a 'year' issue, my '69 was the same way with the tank box less than an inch from the plywood subfloor. I tossed my stock styrofoam insulator and custom made a slightly thinner one from pink foam board, which dropped the tank a bit, then I used 1/4" plywood for a seam splice above the tank (but the Intertite Epoxy is what's really holding it, fantastic stuff) and 3/4 everywhere else. my thread '69 Safari bath repair has fotos...
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:38 PM   #64
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Challenging day with the black tank

I got my new black tank and my box and did a dry run to see how everything fit. The first thing I found out was I had to take the butt plate off. When I put the styrofoam bedding in and placed the black tank on top I ran out of room. Then I but the box with the tank on the frame that holds it and installed it. I was about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off on my holes. I used a pencil drew where I need to to increase the size and cut.

The other challenge I have to meet is the new Valterra dump valve. With the connections I had to buy ends up sticking out farther. I think I can make it fit. Not much accomplished just trying to see how things fit. I did get the solar film on my vista window. I will post in the other forum thread to find out what to use to keep the window pressed against the butyl gasket.

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Old 04-21-2008, 03:49 PM   #65
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Update with pictures

I just have finished with my black tank. It is complete. I also have taken the second vista window out and tinted it. It goes in this weekend. My wife sanded primed the front end of the interior. We went to Sherwin Williams to make sure we got the correct procedure, primer and paint. I have also started with the plumbing. The pipes were sitting out side since fall. When I picked it up and started fooling with it in the trailer hords of fire ants came pouring out of the pipe ( I am very allergic). I will put that together this weekend.

Last week we went to the Overlanders future destination and worked on our property. I cannot wait to pull it to the new land. I set up with the coop to get electic for the property. The company came out and marked where the lines will go.

Check out the pics of the trailer updates and the property.

SIU Bound
Brian
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:38 PM   #66
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Miscellaneous pics

Overlander still waiting for the electrician. I might have scared him off. He was very strong with his suggestion of wiring a seperate box for a 50 amp box. He was talking about two boxes. one 50 amp and one 30 amp. I went to the camper store and spoke with a technician who highly recommended having the electrician speak with them. I was told by the camper store you don't wire the RV like a house. He was supposed to speak with the RV place and that was over a week ago. I am still waiting to hear back from the electrican. This glitch has not slowed me down because I am still doing other projects.

Check out the pics. I had access to a real good camera so I took advantage of it and took some pics. I have both my vista windows in now. converter box is wired except the hard wire. drain pipes are in except for a few odds and ends. I put staples on the top part of the floor with the butt plate underneath. I have the new shades in and my wife is pretty much done with the curtains.Getting closer and Closer.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:14 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
Overlander still waiting for the electrician. I might have scared him off. He was very strong with his suggestion of wiring a seperate box for a 50 amp box. He was talking about two boxes. one 50 amp and one 30 amp. I went to the camper store and spoke with a technician who highly recommended having the electrician speak with them. I was told by the camper store you don't wire the RV like a house. He was supposed to speak with the RV place and that was over a week ago. I am still waiting to hear back from the electrican. This glitch has not slowed me down because I am still doing other projects.

Check out the pics. I had access to a real good camera so I took advantage of it and took some pics. I have both my vista windows in now. converter box is wired except the hard wire. drain pipes are in except for a few odds and ends. I put staples on the top part of the floor with the butt plate underneath. I have the new shades in and my wife is pretty much done with the curtains.Getting closer and Closer.

SIU Bound

Brian
Brian,

Do you have a copy of the 120 volt wiring diagram for you unit? If not I would be happy to scan the one I have and email it to you. The wiring for the 120 power is very simple. There is a main box with a 30 amp main breaker and two 20 amp branch circuit breakers. One of the 20 amp circuits goes only to the AC unit and the other one goes to everything else including the charger.
The service manual that I have has diagrams for all the 1973 models. The 120 circuit is essentially the same for all of them. The differences are primarily in where each part is located.

What do you have there now? Do you need an entirely new 120 volt box and circuit breakers or is there an existing panel? I found a very simple box at Home Depot that was about 4" x 6" or so that enough space for the 30 amp main and at least the two 20 amp branch breakers. If you like I can try to take a photo of the unit that I am talking about so you can see what I mean.

Just let me know...

Malcolm

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Old 04-29-2008, 07:02 PM   #68
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Malcolm:

Thanks for the info. Yes I could use a diagram for a 1973 airstream. I would be very appreciative to have that file. I have a couple of diagrams for airstreams, but I do not know if I have the correct one. I might have already been sent one. but I another file would not hurt. To be honest I would let an electrician use them because I am not schooled in the electical field. I still have the box in my trailer but I took the wires out. I just want somebody who knows electricity to help me wire it back correctly. I don't want the trailer to blow up.

What is your opinion about a 50 amp box upgrade? I would not mind having more options with electricity, and I was told by the electrician you could put a 50 amp box in the trailer and break up the amprage. All greek to me.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:16 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by SIU Bound
Malcolm:

Thanks for the info. Yes I could use a diagram for a 1973 airstream. I would be very appreciative to have that file. I have a couple of diagrams for airstreams, but I do not know if I have the correct one. I might have already been sent one. but I another file would not hurt. To be honest I would let an electrician use them because I am not schooled in the electical field. I still have the box in my trailer but I took the wires out. I just want somebody who knows electricity to help me wire it back correctly. I don't want the trailer to blow up.

What is your opinion about a 50 amp box upgrade? I would not mind having more options with electricity, and I was told by the electrician you could put a 50 amp box in the trailer and break up the amprage. All greek to me.

SIU Bound

Brian
Brian,

I have attaced a scan of the wire diagram from my manual. Please let me know if you have trouble reading it. It is a pdf document so I think you might be able to save and print it out. Any electrician should be able to follow the diagram and hook you back up. You can see where the main power cable goes into the power panel and you can see two wires coming out. One goes to the AC unit and the other one goes everywhere else. As I said the main breaker is 30 amp and the two sub breakers are 20 amp each.

I have decided to leave my system at 30 amps. I don't really have anything in particular that I want to add that really needs more circuitry. I think unless you want to add high current extra things such as electric heaters that you would be OK with the 30 amps. And yes if you did add a 50 amp system you could divide it up into more branch circuits than just the two 20 amp ones.

I hope this helps...

Malcolm
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:18 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
...What is your opinion about a 50 amp box upgrade? I would not mind having more options with electricity, and I was told by the electrician you could put a 50 amp box in the trailer and break up the amprage. All greek to me...
Do you need 50? Your total load is

9 amps - Microwave
4 amps - Converter
3 amps - Lights
12 amps - Ceramic Heater (winter)
18 amps - AC (summer)
10 amps - Water Heater (do you have electric?)
44 amps max (summer with AC)

It's actually difficult in an Airstream to exceed 30 amps unless you have an electic water heater. You have to be running the AC, microwave, and water heater all at the same time, plus the converter is maxing out recharging the battery.

Think of the campgrounds that offer 30 amp hookups at lower prices...

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Old 04-30-2008, 03:07 AM   #71
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Thanks for the necessary information. I have a feeling this guy may not come back. I will have to hire another electrician.

Brian
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:07 AM   #72
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I see where you re-installed your vista-view windows, but I didn't see pictures of how you got them out to clean them. That's my next project in the 76 Sovereign, and I need all the help I can get. Got any advice on this procedure?
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:26 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
Thanks for the necessary information. I have a feeling this guy may not come back. I will have to hire another electrician.

Brian
I think maybe some of the large, luxury, bus-style Mohos require 50A service. But of my friends with TTs, I don't know any who typically use more than 30A service.

Sorry your electrician seems to have bailed, but I'm not sure he was the right guy for this job anyway?

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:12 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
I see where you re-installed your vista-view windows, but I didn't see pictures of how you got them out to clean them. That's my next project in the 76 Sovereign, and I need all the help I can get. Got any advice on this procedure?
Judy, up to at least 1972, the vista view inner pane was held in by a ring of metal something like a "C" clip, so you could remove the clip and get at the inside of the window. By 1975 the frame was changed so that you have to take the frame apart to get the panes out, which requires removing the frame from the shell. If your 73 has the earlier version, it's not that big a deal to clean the window (except figuring out how you're going to replace the putty between the panes). If you have the later window style, it's a major structural task, then you have to rivet the frame back in.

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Old 04-30-2008, 11:18 AM   #75
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Juel

I had the ring that held the window in. This is located in the interior of the trailer. There are several threads on this forum that explain how to do it. It really is not that big of a problem. My advice is everything and anything you do take your time and be careful. You do not want to break the windows. I took the rings out using a screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. I was very slow and careful. You have to pull the ring out by force using tools mentioned. Once you have it out the plexiglass window comes out. You are next left with the window. The sealant is old and hard. You use a razor Knife to cut the sealant between the alumininum frame and the window. Be patient and plan on it going really slow. Pretend you are an archiologist digging up a rare find. Do not force the window. Once you have cut through the seal the window comes out.

I am glad I did not have to drill the rivets.

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Old 04-30-2008, 12:39 PM   #76
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
I did get my stove top powder coated which came out looking awesome.
I put Abatron liquid wood restoration on some small dry rot spots and I will finish with Abatron epoxy later.
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Yep the stove top looks good..real good.
What all did they powder coat? the lid ?, the grates? the base ?
What does each cost in your area?

I think my lid is stainless (rusted a bit though)
And I think my base is porcelinized but can't remember xzactly.
Will the grates stay coated with fire use?
===============
Also what is and what is cost of Abatron?


thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:58 PM   #77
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So, if I'm understanding the whole blackwater tank removal / maintenance process - The correct procedure would be to remove the belly pan versus the flooring correct?

TB
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:23 PM   #78
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The powder coat for everything cost me $80.00. I grabbed all kinds of stuff. I was getting as much done as possible. It came out great and was worth it. They have about 20 different types of silver. I asked the powder coat expert which matched the best and let him pick. It gets ridf rust, pits and scratches. It can handle heat up to 450 degrees.

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Old 04-30-2008, 03:28 PM   #79
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Yes, remove the belly pan first, then drop the black tank. If you have a leak there is a strong possibility you have floor rot. That is where the evaluations come in. Some people take the whole RV down to nuts and bolts. I went after the localized rot. I did not take out the interior aluminum walls. I cut enough off to get access to the channel bolts. I have aluminum I will cut and paint to replace what I cut out. Nobody is going to see it anyway. I did not mess with the plumbing to much. I picked spots and cut the pipe out.

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Old 05-03-2008, 04:21 AM   #80
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30 amps is wired and running

I got my wiring up and running. My deep cycle battery is dead so I need to replace it. It won't hold a charge. My converter is up and wired but my DC lights won't work. I am hoping it is because my deep cycle battery is dead. I thought it would work if I plugged the the trailer into the AC with the dead battery hooked up but it still won't work. When I replace the deep cycle battery and if it still does not work I am going to have figure out what is not working. It is a new converter.

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