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Old 01-29-2008, 06:26 PM   #21
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Your making good progress! After over a year I finally got papers on my 31 so no more excuses, I need to stop procrastinating.
rob
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:53 PM   #22
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good work. test that blackwater tank (mount the dump valve if necessary) before you put it back in. If it's the waxy plastic (smells like a candle when melting) you can weld any cracks:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post511474

don't know about fixing the others. not a bad idea about taking out the aft part of bath floor. many have done it and glad they did. the fiberglass bath parts are also repairable and paintable to a nice bright white.

keep up the good work!
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:30 PM   #23
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Cleaned some of the trunk area

I am still waiting for welding but while I wait I decided to do another project. I took the back part of the trunk (area that you put cords, hoses and stuff in) and decided to clean the aluminun. It was pretty oxidized and I had to put some good old fashioned work into it. It came clean and I decided to change the gasket. the gasket was hard and brittle and rivets were broken that was holding it in place. So I decided to make a new one. I will post some pics.

SIU Bound

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Old 02-03-2008, 06:25 PM   #24
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Good to see the progress. You got me motivated. I've been pulling the inside plexi from all the windows...err almost all the windows. I have one upper window that seems to be glass both in and exterior.

See your upgrade replacing the UNI Volt. I can not find mine. Have a gel battery and use a trickle charger for the time being.

Look forward to seeing more pics.

rob n terry
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Old 02-03-2008, 06:54 PM   #25
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Univolt upgrade

I am surprised you do not have a a converter. If you decide to upgrade and buy one, then shop for awhile before you purchase one. I lucked out and got my paralax for a decent price of 70 dollars. Watch for those sales. I also made sure that I got a converter that has the amprage my airstream was designed for. My airstream is 30 amp so that is what I bought.

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Old 02-03-2008, 08:35 PM   #26
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I am still looking for surpises. She was sitting on a lot when I bought it..."everything works" and I was the sucker to believe it. I probably would have brought her home even if I knew all the issues...but geez...no operating water system...no heater...no converter...and when the papers arrived I discovered he had never put the trailer in his name. Surprise! But all small stuff in the big scheme of things. All the stuff one knows to look for once they have read the forum All that and it is starting to become an airstream again...
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Old 02-04-2008, 05:29 AM   #27
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Sounds familiar

It sounds much like what I bought. The positive of all this is that I am enjoying working on it. Many of the priority projects for the house have been put on hold but I was getting burned out working on the house. This travel trailer has its problems but they will get solved. One problem at a time. All you have to do is look up on the net and see what a new airstream cost.

I have no plumbing in mine at all because I ripped it out. I will replace the plumbing, hot water heater, bathroom floor, galvanized box holding black tank, black tank, converter and other things. I do not know what type of shape my water tank is in and I am not sure about the refrigerator. It will get done. If you have the tools you can do this. If you don't have the tools find a Harbor Freight (Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices) and buy from them. They are very inexpensive and perfect for what you are doing. You do not need a top end tool for temporary work. I just bought a hydraulic rivet gun from HF for $47.00 on sale. What a nice gun.

Feel Free to e-mail anytime, If you e-mail me I will give you my number if you need to talk about restoration.

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Old 02-04-2008, 06:14 PM   #28
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Progress is always good Tools we got...somewhere in the garage...Like you I juggle projects, and yes, as strange as it sounds working a the trailer is a break from working on the house, even when the projects are similar. My biggest concern will be checking the axels out. Most everything else is labor and creativity.

Keep the photos coming
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Old 02-20-2008, 05:02 PM   #29
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box and frame to hold it finished

I finshed the black tank box. I por-15 the outside and the inside of the box. I had some bed liner spray and used it on the inside. I had my friend make the frame out of 1/8 inch angle iron. Everything has been done to the orginal specifications.

Check out the pic

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Old 02-20-2008, 05:19 PM   #30
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Lookin' good. Great friends you've got there.

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Old 02-20-2008, 05:28 PM   #31
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Jim:

This man who built the 1/8 inch frame to hold the box is brilliant. He teaches welding and does a great job. He is going to come over to do some welding on the disintegrated part of the rail and put the box frame in. Once he does that I am ready to put the floor in. I bought the Nyloboard Monday and it looks great. I think it will work really well. I ordered my black tank through the airstream dealer in Jonesboro and I am waiting for it to come in. I ordereded about one month ago. I will call them tomorrow. I also want them to put a new dump valve and senors on the tank for me.

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Old 02-20-2008, 06:26 PM   #32
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You are cruising right along! I like the bed-liner idea, and of course the floor material. You are planning on making this rig reach 73 again
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:40 PM   #33
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Floor Template

I took measurements for the new floor and made a template from foam board. I made it just a little bit bigger then what I need because I figure it is easier to shave off extra then to mess up the Nyloboard. I will definitely re-measure before I make cuts. Check out the pics

Welding is suppose to take place next week to install the new frame to hold the black tank box.

Brian
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:46 PM   #34
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Looking good, man, you have a ton done! Our 73 did not requre that much attention....
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:35 PM   #35
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Before you permanently weld the tank frame in make sure your's didn't have four little tabs welded to the main frame that the two angle iron supports actually BOLTED to, first. The purpose of this was so that the black tank can be DROPPED out the bottom of the trailer (for service/maintenance) without much trouble. Well, a lot less trouble than cutting a welded frame out would be, ya? You'd just take out four bolts/nuts and the two angle iron tank supports would drop out after bellypan removal. just a heads up\


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Old 03-02-2008, 07:38 PM   #36
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Boy, does that look familiar. I did the same thing, but used luan instead of the foam. Just happened to have a bunch of that available at the time.

Now that the weather is finally warming up, you should make make some good progress. Keep us up to date.

On Edit: Mine is just as Rick describes it. A couple of the bolts are a real pain to get out of there.

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Old 03-10-2008, 04:46 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
Before you permanently weld the tank frame in make sure your's didn't have four little tabs welded to the main frame that the two angle iron supports actually BOLTED to, first. The purpose of this was so that the black tank can be DROPPED out the bottom of the trailer (for service/maintenance) without much trouble. Well, a lot less trouble than cutting a welded frame out would be, ya? You'd just take out four bolts/nuts and the two angle iron tank supports would drop out after bellypan removal. just a heads up\


fotochop
Rick,

My A/S (1970) has the bolted in supports that you mentioned. However, if the old supports had not rusted completely away the bolts were so rusted that it would have been imposible to remove them. Do you have any ideas on how to prevent this the next time? Should I use SS bolts? I am having to build a new tank box like Brian did and want to make the whole setup right.

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Old 03-10-2008, 07:14 PM   #38
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maybe a metallurgist here can weigh in on the SS vs. galvanized bolt debate? I'm just putting galv in mine with self-locking nuts (have a plastic bushing inside the nut threads) and POR-15 on just about everything. a real trailer-ist will probably be dropping the belly pan once a decade anyway just to keep life interesting... The POR will really slow down rust to where it should not be a problem. If you compare the before/after images in my '69 Safari Bath Repair thread you'll see what I mean. It's amazing stuff. So much better than OEM paint. If your supports are shot you'll have to weld new ones anyway, just be sure you POR 'em after..
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:47 PM   #39
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Thanks Rick for the reply. HD galvanized bolts with POR-15 on the metal sounds like a good solution.
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:58 AM   #40
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I have had small brackets made for the back end of the frame for support. I guess it is what they call dog ears. They will support that small area that does not sit on the frame. I have seen several pictures in past threads which show where airstreamers have installed them. My welder told me that he needed bare metal to do the welds for those bracket supports. So I had to remove the por-15 to expose some metal for the welding to take place. Oh boy is that paint protectant tuff. It took me the use of a grinder to remove the paint. The wire brush on the grinder would not remove it. Once the brackets are installed I will put more Por-15 on.

I plan on using galvanized bolts with nylon lock nots on holding tank box frame. I am not worried about them rusting. I figure I am in my mid 50's and by the time they rust I will probably be dead and gone to the airstream campgrounds in the sky.

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