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Old 04-13-2004, 01:28 PM   #21
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I give up for now. silver suz- dont know how to reduce photo size
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Old 04-13-2004, 02:06 PM   #22
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I give up for now. silver suz- dont know how to reduce photo size
Suz, tell us a little about your computer. posting pictures is really simple, and you probably have everything you need to do it.

what type of computer? what operating system? what photo-editing software?

Microsoft has a cool "powertoy" (free download) that will auto-magically smallerize a whole folder's worth of pictures, probably intended just for this purpose. (taking large digi-camera photos and optimizing them for web-posting).
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Old 04-13-2004, 02:38 PM   #23
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Hi and thanks for your help. We have a kodak Easy Share (ha) camera, 5.o megapixels. I've taken pic with it just this month. It has a dock that is connected to our Dell which we got in Aug '03. As it is in our family, one of the boys immediately grabbed the instructions and I havent seen them since! I have a copied page of the new software+new method to attach photos. and I've gotten through that When I go into the kodak program and pick out the pictures- I have the problem someone else has about not knowing how to reduce the pixels (?) down to the 206 X 288 size. that's where I'm stuck now. There are no clear instructions on how to reduce pixels. I can reduce and crop the size but it's still too big. at this point I have put enough hours into it for the day and will try tomorrow. I've got to get the solar ordered and the paint/sealers glue etc. I also face the daily fight for supremacy of the computer when my son gets home in 10 minutes. Homework always wins out but seems to drift into gameplaying behind my back : )) Thanks for your concern. Maybe I should order a new instruction book from kodak! So thanks for today ,but I must do some other things! I cant spend 100% of my life on the airstream! silver suz
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Old 04-13-2004, 03:13 PM   #24
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I hate these things that dumb-down the process. they only do what the authors think you'll want to do, which ain't much.


http://faqs.kodak.com/Digital_Camera...tance=&Shared=

I'd get some other software for editing photos if I were you...you may already have some...don't know what was bundled w/ your computer. But if the above is the only way you can do it w/ the kodak software's options, its rather limited. but you should be able to reduce the pictures so they can be posted here.

another thing you can do, if you know how to browse the file system and find the actual photographs on your hard drive, is to use the windowsXP powertoy that I mentioned. it'll take every image in a particular photo, and make a copy of it @ one of several resolutions. it doesn't overwrite the originals, so you don't have to worry about that...it makes a smaller copy of the image, and names the files that it creates "small_xxxxx.jpg". so you can easily copy a bunch of them to another folder, and have "e-mail-able" or "postable" versions.

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/p.../powertoys.asp

best part is that its free!
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Old 04-13-2004, 05:38 PM   #25
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Silver suz.

I could not post photos either. "UNTIL," someone said "reduce the image size to the lowest the camera will allow."

On my Sony, that happens to be 640 x 480.

WOW!!!!!!!!

Like magic, now I can post photo's on this site.

Perhaps that might work for you.

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Old 04-13-2004, 05:47 PM   #26
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auto-magically smallerize


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Old 05-28-2006, 12:48 AM   #27
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Tail sag and seperation

Inspection today of our 1970 27' Overlander revealed more problems than I realized it had. A lot are of a minor nature, which I expected to find, and correctable. I won't enumerate those here.

What is a real downer is the rear end sag. I get about 3/8" movement streetside, 1/4" curbside when standing on the rear bumper. Closer inspection reveals rotted floor at the aft edge of the bathroom. Sink drain line is broken and may be the culprit here. Popping loose the rear of the belly pan shows some rust on the rear lower anngle iron that goes around the holding tank. Haven't peeled back enough to see the frame yet.

Let me see if I can fight of the depression long enough to list some questions.

1) The rear end problem does not necessarily indicate that the frame is rotted? Problem could just be the floor to shell and frame attachements? Is the logic correct here? Broken frames and rear seperation are different animals?

2) My axle arms are about parallel with the main frame member (as near as I can tell, one flat tire is kind of skewing the view). Are my axles toast? Good for a season or two? Or...(trailer pretty light at his point; no gear onboard, holding tank empty, don't know about water).

3) Noticed the kitchen counter (layout D I believe) is low at the aft curbside corner. I'm taking this to mean that either the cabinet or floor is rotted in this location. Either way, it's got to come out and repairs be made. Question is: Is it acceptable to do spot repairs on the floor, assuming one can put patches in to where they land on structural members? This is as opposed to entirly gutting it and doing a whole new floor. My understanding is that the upper shell rests on the floor, thus the condition of the floor at the edges and the attendant aluminum channels are what's critical? Am I on track here at all?

4) Tried to test the water system. Due to a bad leak at the sink faucet, test was stopped. Later on I noticed water leaking from what appears to be a small cast aluminum vent located on the curbside aft roof corner. HTH is water running up into a vent line (if that's what it is)? Clueless on this. Don't know if air pressure building up in the drain lines just pushed some water out that was trapped, or if I'm about to get another real kick in the teeth.

5) House electrical test: Univolt hums quietly, a couple of lights come on (most have been removed. Bulbs that is, fixtures are there). Get nothing happening at the control center. AC outlets functional. Suggestions on dead control center? Couldn't see the fuses well enough in the Univolt to know if all good, and left the meter in ther other truck. I'm 99% sure the battery is dead. Maybe just fuses? Dead battery affecting things? Can the Univolt be partly functional?


I would really appreciate some help with all this. I thought it ws in better shape, and the main project today was not to just sit down and cry in front of my daughter.

The good parts: Replacement Coleman air conditioner seems to be nearly new as promised, and makes nice cold air. Made it very comfortable even with the door standing open most of the time.

New GE apartment fridge works, and very quietly.

Curbside ZipDee awning can be made to function. Cloth is a little crispy at one edge, but looks like we can get a season or so out of it. This is a bonus; I just figured it would be toast. Green and white stripes, which is neat since we're heading towards green for upholstery/curtains/linens. Considering painting the trim stripes back in in green too. Then maybe we can tell which giant soda pop can is ours.

Exterior has some dents (more than I remember naturally), but doesn't bother me. All in all I would rate it nice. Windows all good; need a couple of latches here and there.

Cabinets generally good; this one has the walnut oil finished interior. I do far more difficult woodwork for a living. A good weekend will have the interior wood corrected.

Last question, and I know this somewhat subjective, and will also depend on how bad some of it really is:

From what I have described, does this sound salvageable? We've got $1900 into it, and immediately need tires to move it further. From what I've read on the forum, there aren't any repairs I can't do myself. I have two professional woodshops at my disposal, have my own small machine shop and blacksmithing and fabrication stuff. What I don't have is unlimited funds. And I have a backlog of projects longer than I care to admit. I really want the Airstream to work, but I don't have 1000 hours to put into it. Too, maybe it's not as horrible as I feel right now, and I'm not sure we can find any sort of trailer this size we can afford that won't have some problems. In other words, patching floors sucks, but has almost no material cost. Replacing air conditioners and the like runs up, and I suspect most of the other brand trailers we looked at from the mid '80's, while appearing nice, would go through one major appliance then the next.

I'm pretty upset over all this, mainly with myself for flat out missing stuff. It's mainly feeling like a heel because I had my family all amped up about what we could do and where we could go. Now, it appears that Daddy's slipped in another weird project and nobodies vactioning anywhere soon.

Anyway, I need some help understanding what I've really got here, and getting my head wrapped around it. Maybe then I'll know what to do, but I need some help,

Thank you,

Rob
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
Inspection today of our 1970 27' Overlander revealed more problems than I realized it had. .....
Rob:

Not to dispair (too much, anyway)...
Use the trailer, plan some camping trips, and schedule required repairs around the trips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
1) The rear end problem does not necessarily indicate that the frame is rotted? Problem could just be the floor to shell and frame attachements? Is the logic correct here? Broken frames and rear seperation are different animals?
What you will probably find is a lot of rotted (rusted) steel after you pull back the belly pan from the rear....results may vary. As you already realize, the shell to floor to frame integrity cannot be compromised, so the only proper (meaning long term) fix that I am aware of is to remove any rusted/decomposed materials (steel, wood, aluminum) and replace a large enough section to be able to get to sound material and make a proper splice....remember, a monocoque design such as AS requires that ALL three or the structure types (floor, frame, and shell) work together as a single unit to meet overall structure design.

You will not know the proper solution until you tear it apart to look at it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
2) My axle arms are about parallel with the main frame member (as near as I can tell, one flat tire is kind of skewing the view). Are my axles toast? Good for a season or two? Or...(trailer pretty light at his point; no gear onboard, holding tank empty, don't know about water).
I think you will find most of the extension arms on the 70's trailers will be about flat...I know that mine are on the '78 Sovereign. I think Inland Andy had a good answer for the axle replacement question - he recommended to take a short ride inside the trailer and experience first hand the suspension dampening - or lack of it while travellling of a typical road. On my '78 there are a few interior panel rivets popped - but they could have gone missing in a fast tow over a rough road, a long time running with unbalanced tires, the rubber may have indeed taken a set - or any combination of the above. The next step in my axle decision is to take some accurate vertical measurements and remove the tire supports from one axle at a time (taking care to keep everything level for the measurement) in order to observe if there is ANY movement at all at the spindel when it is unsupported. I would not have much hope, as a mid 90's trailer I have observed had virtually no movement when the tires were removed. I would suggest that, unless you plan several long trips this year, the axle replacement could be put off as a winter project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
3) Noticed the kitchen counter (layout D I believe) is low at the aft curbside corner. I'm taking this to mean that either the cabinet or floor is rotted in this location. .... My understanding is that the upper shell rests on the floor, thus the condition of the floor at the edges and the attendant aluminum channels are what's critical? Am I on track here at all?
Right on on all accounts - a good understanding of the scope of the repair is critical to doing it right. As you indicated, it will require a good deal of interior removal to find the real extent of the damage. Probably an easy fix here, though, on the counter of the '87 345 Motor Home I found the same corner as you described to be unsupported from the factory - I inserted a brace along the back of the counter and the whole thing is stronger than new (and level to boot).


Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
4) Tried to test the water system. Due to a bad leak at the sink faucet, test was stopped. Later on I noticed water leaking from what appears to be a small cast aluminum vent located on the curbside aft roof corner. HTH is water running up into a vent line (if that's what it is)?
Good news is that it IS probably a vent line. If the support for the vent allowed the pipe to slip below the water level the combination of air/water pressure COULD be lifting the water out the top of the vent....but then the question arises of why is the pressure not being relieved through the P traps of the sinks or shower....I would believe that, beyond the proper placement of the vent pipe vertically, this should be a low priority concern. I suspect that with time, use, and cleaning this problem will either correct itself or reveal the problem. The drainage plumbing is all plastic/PVC so getting to it is a bunch more problematic than the actual repair.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
5) House electrical test: Univolt hums quietly, a couple of lights come on (most have been removed. Bulbs that is, fixtures are there). Get nothing happening at the control center. AC outlets functional. Suggestions on dead control center? Couldn't see the fuses well enough in the Univolt to know if all good, and left the meter in ther other truck. I'm 99% sure the battery is dead. Maybe just fuses? Dead battery affecting things? Can the Univolt be partly functional?
The Univolt really requires a battery in line for good rectification. Battery life of a "regular" battery could not be expected to be more than a battery in regular automotive use (3-5 years if you are lucky). As far as the other 12 volt questions - best to get your volt meter out and start to probe. I would recommend the first thing to do is to aggresively clean all of the junction points and fuse holders to remove any corrossion. Corrossion is additive, and is the culprit of many electrical gremlins. Be sure to explore the ground (-) circuit as carefully as the positive side. On the 120 question, I would suggest the same thing - the 30 amp plug/shore line could well require replacement - there is a junction point for the shore line/house wiring somewhere around the rear curbside corner that may cause problems. Check the breaker box and insure (carefully) that all is functional there.


As you have already found out, most every question about working on these antiques has already been answered many times over - although it may take some perseverance to ask the "search" a question with the proper wording to get a satisfactory answer. Peruse the threads of others who have documented their rebuilds - there are many...some have taken an easy fix, others have rebuilt to original specs.

By far, I think the rear end separation is the most immediate and serious of your problems, but even it could be put off until winter if you have a place to work on it. I know you have some good camping oppportunities within a few hours tow of your residence. In my opinion the best camping season is Autumn, so go for a few short trips this summer (camping, heat, and Georgia humidity suck as a combination), and be ready to hit the family with a mack-daddy trip when the colors change. After getting a "taste" of AirStreaming you could make the decision if further repairs were worth it to you. I don't think the welding and rear plywood replacement on mine took more than 20 hours, but bear in mind I only replaced the rear 8" of plywood,and I have a center bath.

Don't discount the opportunity to work with your daughter on this project - if she really enjoys her camping experiences she may be excited about "helping" you with the rebuild/repair project...what better way to get her to work with her hands, pass on some common sense, teach her to think about what she is doing, and allow her to be involved in a "real world" situation where time and money spent must be balanced against enjoyment and fullfillment derived.


Rob, this assignment, should you decide to accept it, will be costly beyond belief in terms of money and time, but will provide to you and your family many times over memories, opportunities, and experiences you could not find in any other area of the world - enjoy it (and your family) while you can!

This message will self destruct on 30 seconds.

PM me your address - I have a lot of info on late 70's trailers I could burn on a CD if you want it.
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:22 AM   #29
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Rob,

First, don't cry in front of your daughter. (Go somewhere else)

Second, you're probably not going camping this summer. Yes, you've got into a bigger mess than you ever could have imagined. (I speak as one who has replaced two rear floor sections, one in a '72 Overlander, the other in a '73 Sovereign).

Third, don't kid yourself....your frame is probably pretty rusty and in need of restoration and probably repair. 1000 hours may not be too much of an exaggeration. (I wouldn't worry about axles at this point.)

All that being said....you can complete the task if you really want to. Don't kick yourself...many have made the same mistake. I paid $4500 for the Overlander (all original equip working except new Coleman A/C), found rear floor rot/separation month later and eventually replaced all equip (fridge, water heater, furnace, stovetop) as they failed. If you stop now, you might be able to get your money back, but if you continue, plan on another $2K-$3K, not including axles, to complete the job (assuming you do all repairs yourself)

I completely restored the Overlander to very good condition but with 7 children, it just wasn't big enough. I now have a '31 Sovereign center bath which I've started repairs on, but have been stopped for a while now, as I focused on selling Overlander and boat repairs. I'll get back to it eventually (I hope).

I reallly would like to go camping again someday, and Airstreams are special (they tow great and are very well built), but it's a long way from here to there.

I'm currently helping another gentleman (technical advisor, welding) restore a '72 Overlander and would be happy to assist if you decide to tackle this project. I'd be happy do discuss the pros and cons of continuing, if need be. (I can see both sides of the coin, believe me.) (706-296-5682)

Here are my pics. It's a little confusing sorting them out as all of the first 5 pages are of the Overlander, than the Sovereign, and then some more of the Overlander.

I'm just up the road on the other side of Athens from you (going toward Hartwell).
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:29 AM   #30
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Perspective realignment....

We actually came to enjoy the repairs and the weekend routine of making some old broken part of the trailer perfect. I know - it's weird - but it has been a reported phenomenon by many forum members. The project is part of the journey.

We have an eighteen year old - he was 14 when we started. He loves the trailer, does his homework there - says it's peaceful. He helped (a little) with the repairs. He thinks it's cool. Your daughter may find this long term project an interesting life lesson in patience and perseverance and recreational work (work for pleasure).

It's not all about video games, the mall and cell phones..... When we were contemplating adding a TV/DVD to the trailer our son objected. His quote was "who would want to watch infomercials inside a Fabergé egg" .... amazing what kids pick up.
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Old 05-29-2006, 09:15 PM   #31
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Thank you all; haven't been ignoring you, just been searching & reading, trying to get in the position where I can better understand and discuss this thing.

A little more background, if I may. In an effort to quit being such a workaholic, I returned to competitive shooting after a 20 year lapse (specifically, rimfire benchrest). Been enjoying myself immensly, but skyrocketing fuel and ammo costs have had me searching for ways to make it more affordable. One problem is that my wife works nights, and I just can't leave early enough after she gets home to make some matches, unless I go Friday, take the kid, get a hotel. Too, we've developed a habit of vacationing on Jekyll and other islands, and rent houses a couple of times a year.

Some quick math indicated that a camper would be cheaper, as well as letting me get to more matches and let me and the wife have more opportunity to get away. Sounded good.

You know the rest of the story up to this point. Our general conclusion at this point is dance with the devil we know, to mix the metaphors. With new air, fridge and toilet, no signs of tanks leaking, we can probably iron major systems out OK. The axle thing blows, but that's the one biggie so far, and not immediate.

We don't think dumping this one and buying something else for the money we're willing to spend will have any better results, or at best it's a 50/50 shot. From reading on here, I'm becoming convinced than any older AS is going to exhibit some of these problems to a greater or lesser degree, and all other brands of campers we've looked at have all older appliances, which with our luck will exhibit catastrophic failure in a house of cards fashion.

I can't say I'm terribly impressed with a lot of AS engineering at this point. I understand the monocoque construction (now), and while I don't have a problem with trying to achieve lighter weight, it's the execution of it that kills me. The suckers are designed to work and leak, and depending on the floor as the main shell support....words "perimeter frame" ring a bell....not to an ME at AS. Effective sealing and flanging methods, oh well. Holding costs down - c'mon, at what these sell for new, someone could put out the effort and maintain profitability. OK, OK, rant over, I know I'm not the first, but had to personally throw my 2 cents in and vent some frustration. I won't ever do it again, but had to just once. Thought I was getting a Cadillac, just didn't understand it was a '76 Seville (another horror story, fortunately of my folks not me). OK, I just did it again, sorry, now I'm really, truly done. Let's deal with what it is and fix it.

In case I haven't been clear. WE"RE KEEPING IT. The major disappointment has been not being able to go as quick as I wanted, and the embarassment of buying it based on reputation and not enough hard research. My bad, and despite my less than endearing comments on AS construction, all the blame is mine. I did the deal, nobody forced me, just taking me a bit to get reoriented and develop a plan.

So if anyone's still listening, here's the rough plan, MK I:

1) Get it shod and get it home. Doable, still deciding who's going to supply the Marathons, but should happen Fri or Sat. One good stroke; found the Reese spring bars for the hitch under the bed in the stateroom. Cool, there's $150 we don't have to send to Reese (sidenote: spoke with Amanda at Reese, she was helpful, helped me figure out what I had, and there didn't seem to be any problem getting bars for the older hitch/1985.)

2) Given that the bathroom has to come out, I've decided to take the lower furniture and cabinets out starting forward and working aft to the bath. The gaucho has ills and doesn't fit our plans so it's going anyway. Anyone want? This will allow a full inspection of the floor; once any ills are fixed in the structure, then I can peacefully continue with the rest.

3) Obviously, repair the floor in the rear and any othe areas (and frame, etc)

4) Put bath back in (wish I could find some of that magic tub spray in black). At this point, once running gear is good enough, scarily it'll be ready to go to matches. One army cot as furniture, and away we go.

5) Refinish and reinstall woodwork. Since it'll be mostly out, I'm debating on whether to oil the interior (can be done at the home shop; wife and daughter can work on days), or get it all prepped and run it up to the main shop and spray it one weekend.

I think having the interior out will make it a lot easier to chase down wires and check a lot of things. Naturally, there'll be road wiring and brake work and all sorts of little things going on as we attempt what I know is a simplified list, and we'll probably do the axles this winter.

Probably will eventually redo some, or all, of the interior, but throwing the original back in will give us a chance to use it and decide how to go from there.

Dennis and Ron, thank you for your comments on the specifics. Ron, it was your photos that originally sent me to check on this stuff. I'll be in touch someday, but didn't want to call and whine about what an idiot I am. Getting better now.

Janet, we have been looking at this as an enjoyable project, but more with an eye to interior work. The mechanical and structural ills brought me up hard to say the least, but at this point we're resigned to our fate and will make the best of it.

I think in the end we'll have what we want, and I don't think we'll be in it too bad money-wise. I don't think the work is that hard, it's just I guess I was hoping that it all wasn't so, or the genie would pop out of the bottle, or..well, you get the point. Lest I sound too upbeat, I have done major yacht refits, house remodeling, curently design and build pipe organs, and maintain my own personal shops for about everything else. Downer is that I'm in the middle of a large lathe rebuild of a machine I need on line, was caught trying to get 3 new competitive rifles barreled and stocked, and in my spare time the dog needs a fence. And they expect me to show up at work. Not complaining, just have a lot going on and it's going to take some reordering of things to fit it in. Need the camper to shoot, so the guns slack off a bit while we ramp up on the camper, etc.

To conclude, we're going to give it a shot, and I'll report back as we go and see how far off my guesses are now.

Time to read some more, I think I'm going to need some rivets soon so...


Rob
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:08 AM   #32
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3) . . . Question is: Is it acceptable to do spot repairs on the floor, assuming one can put patches in to where they land on structural members? This is as opposed to entirly gutting it and doing a whole new floor. . . .
Rob, While I haven't done it, spot repairs on the floor are possible, but you do not want to put the edges of the new section directly above the frame or cross members because you get no strength that way. The floor is part of the monocoque of an airstream. It needs to remain strong. Splice in a new section of floor by cutting between between the frame members and secure the edges together using a strip of floor board (a cleat?) screwed (and glued?) to the bottom side. You can attach this strip to the underside of the existing (good) floor when you have the bad section cut out. Then you can attached the new section to it when you install it.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:32 AM   #33
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Rob- Your project is doable. I am attaching a link below from a fellow forum memeber who replaced his bathroom floor, fixed his back frame, and did a great job an his rear bath.
http://www.balrgn.com/
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:42 AM   #34
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Rob,

Don't kick yourself. Assuming everything is intact, you're not really hurting on the deal yet (given what you've said you spent). I came to the same conclusion on my Overlander....that there are two types of old Airstreams.....those with issues and those whose issues have been addressed. After reading some of the posts from members with newer and sometimes brand new units with issues from the factory, I'd rather do it myself. If you think you feel bad now, just think how you'd feel after dropping $40K on a unit with stupid little issues that never should have left the factory. This way, you pay as you go. (And will never approach that number.)

And think of all the fun you'll have!!!!!

My only suggestion at this point is to start at the rear and work your way forward. Deal with the biggest issue first and you can go camping this summer (bathroom will be finished). I haven't searched, but I'm sure you can find 2-part epoxy paint in black, although I'd do some serious praying before I did it!)

There is a '72 Overlander here in Athens gutted, in the process of restoration that you might like to see. He put the new floor in last week, after I fabricated and welded on new rear frame sections (see pics). I'd be more than happy to coach you through this and will save you time and money if you're willing. (It's a lot more fun to help someone else than to work on your own mess.) (Yes, the picture is real, the frame rail was almost completely GONE!)

1. Don't start disassembly until it is securely up on 6 x 6 lumber. (see my pics) This makes a HUGE difference when working underneath.

2. Accept the fact that you'll have to remove the entire bedroom to get to the bath. There are a couple of screws on the back side of the pocket door which hold the tub that can't be accessed without removing the door. (It's just easier to get everything out of your way)

3. Use ziplock bags and labels to keep track of screws and stuff. It'll save you a lot of time and guesswork in reassembly.

4. Make sure you're on good terms with your neighbors and they understand what you're doing. (if you live on acreage like me, this isn't an issue)

Give me a call
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:32 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by blackboat
2) Given that the bathroom has to come out, I've decided to take the lower furniture and cabinets out starting forward and working aft to the bath. The gaucho has ills and doesn't fit our plans so it's going anyway. Anyone want? This will allow a full inspection of the floor; once any ills are fixed in the structure, then I can peacefully continue with the rest.

3) Obviously, repair the floor in the rear and any othe areas (and frame, etc)

4) Put bath back in (wish I could find some of that magic tub spray in black). At this point, once running gear is good enough, scarily it'll be ready to go to matches. One army cot as furniture, and away we go.


Rob
You already know what I'm going to say. Been said here many times. If this is a keeper, and it sounds like it is as the size is good, safe your self alot of time and heartache. Replace the floor and get all the old fiberglass insulation off the frame. It is faster to replace the whole thing then piece by piece by "Oh, I might as well do this section to" piece. It isn't that hard and you may find some great metal and some really bad cross members you have to fix so it doesn't come apart when you hit that railroad track you didn't see at 60.. Took me three times longer because of reluctance and having to learn as I go. Trailers aren't suppose to smell. You'll have a healthy sound unit and with your woodworking skills it will be famous. There are cautions, read the full monty threads.
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:47 PM   #36
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Got to get the tires ordered tomorrow so I can move this tub this weekend. Yes, interior will get gutted to start the work. I am hoping I don't have to do the whole floor at this point, but once I can see it all that may change. I'd really like to get it going with most of the original furniture back in so I can see how it lives and start planning a new interior, which i think I'm going to want since I don't like the layout. Problem is, I haven't seen a trailer where I like the layout, so I figure I need some live in time to come up with ideas. I ve even thought about living in it here at the house to hurry the "get a feel" process up.

I figure over winter this year or next, whenever we have a design planned, I will get the shell off and do the floor totally new then. Yes, essentially I'll be gutting it twice, but in my job we do more build it, tear it down, build it again, than most people believe, so it's not a big thing in my mind. At this point, my gut tells me that most of my problems are aft, and not as bad as I suspected. 'Course my gut bought this critter, so we all know what that's worth. Just have to see what I find and adjust as I go; have to start with some sort of plan, though as it's been said, no plan survives first contact with the enemy, etc.

Thank you everyone for your encouragement, I'm not feeling so overwhelmed. Still a bit more resigned than excited. Been cleaning out the living room today so we have space to store the interior as we strip it (we live a bit different than normal people); got a boat in the woodshop right now and space there is tight.

Oh yeah, trailer doesn't smell. I take it that's a good thing?

Now where is that brake controller? Dang holidays messing up my shipping.

We haven't found a name for it yet. Or I have, but my wife says I can't paint that on something we might take to family places. Maybe a Vargas girl on the front? There is a lot of room for nose art on these so...

Thank you all,

Rob
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:02 AM   #37
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No bad smells is a really good thing. It means that there are probably not too many leaks and the trailer was probably fairly well treated (no smokers for one, no critters for another).

Glad to see that things are looking up for you. Keep us up to date.

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Old 05-31-2006, 08:20 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackboat
....., I haven't seen a trailer where I like the layout, so I figure I need some live in time to come up with ideas. I ve even thought about living in it here at the house to hurry the "get a feel" process up.
Rob
Good observation. Find some time to go to rallies in your area. You can go just for the day sans trailer if needed. Most rallies have an "open house" usually before dinner time and folks are thrilled to show off their trailers. Spend some time looking at others floor plans - ask what works. Bring a picture or two of your project along.

We all have different space needs.. As an example - I don't like or understand why on earth anyone would want twin beds - most especially mid-twins. But some folks love 'em.

You have time to decide - work on the mechanicals first - fix the floor, systems and running gear. By the time your finished you'll have spent enough time in the trailer to understand what kind of layout might work for you.
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Old 05-31-2006, 09:24 PM   #39
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We look forward to some "in the beginning" pictures. The window placement tends to limit the lay options. I actually removed one to make room for some rear closets.
No "trailer" smell is a very good thing. Could be the snake ate all the critters.
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Old 06-02-2006, 08:21 AM   #40
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1970 27' Overlander
Conyers , Georgia
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Could be the snake ate all the critters.
Cool. Did AS equip this with a snake or would that be an owner mod?

Janet, good suggestion on the rallies; hadn't thought of going without the trailer. Funny how your mind works sometimes.

Interior will take some study. My main problem is that on vacation I fish most of the night. Would like to figure out a way to stumble in at 4:00 am without stepping on everybody., get some eats, etc. Need seperate bedrooms for me/wife, and kid. Probably don't have enough trailer to get there and still have a living area. Also want to get rid of some cabinets and have more counter space in the galley. I like to cook on vacation and could use some more room. Oh well, got time to ponder it.

Brake controller showed up, and have an appointment to get it's new shoes on Saturday, so maybe we have a shot at getting it home this weekend.

Thanks,

Rob

Thanks,

Rob
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