Super Sized Sixty Sovereign

[MattB]

I appreciate the information on the insulation. Would you mind sharing the sources? I am always looking for new stuff and I like the look of this a lot better than what I used in my 1955.

I mitigated the the Prodex concern a little by just waiting until they had a good sale, but I too am leary of their website. After rebuilding my sauna roof and the inner layer on the 55 with the fiberglass stuff, I am swearing never to use it again. And definitely looking for some better alternatives for future trailers.

Thanks!

[truckasaurus]

I found very few places to buy the Thinsulate SM600L from.
-There's Amazon and eBay which I think actually comes from Impact Graphics. Efficient for small quantities.
-DiyVan which is part of Impact as above and I think owned by Hein, a user on this forum :-). Efficient for medium quantities.
-Tgoldkamp.com. Only sells master rolls of 1500 sq ft so great if you grouped together.

William

[truckasaurus]

Slowly getting it done. A bunch of stiffeners in the front, followed by the Furrion 110V shore inlet and a custom chromed VTS fresh fill with an additional 5/8" marine vent JIC. 3/4" backing plates to firm everything up.

Tomorrow I'll add the 2nd Furrion shore inlet and city fill towards the rear and hopefully get the porch light on.

My current plan has the kitchen and bathroom on opposite sides and I'm toying with the idea of running pex lines across from street (kitchen) to curb (bathroom) in a partition wall sneaking them above a door way. Just wanted to throw it our there to see if that seemed like a bad idea? Would winterizing require drain valves in the bathroom? Worst case i could run them all around the trailer but it seems like a lot of extra PEX.

[dznf0g]

Yes, imo, you would want drains on both side if the trailer.

[nvestysly]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

...
My current plan has the kitchen and bathroom on opposite sides and I'm toying with the idea of running pex lines across from street (kitchen) to curb (bathroom) in a partition wall sneaking them above a door way. Just wanted to throw it our there to see if that seemed like a bad idea? Would winterizing require drain valves in the bathroom? Worst case i could run them all around the trailer but it seems like a lot of extra PEX.
…

Maybe I'm missing something... Wouldn't the shortest distance to all the plumbing fixtures be to route the PEX in the cabinets and the belly pan. Not all the way around and not over the top of a doorway. Sounds like your belly pan may already be "buttoned up" but if that's the case it may make sense to open it up in certain areas to route the water lines.

I do like the idea of two sets of low-point drain valves - one on curb side and one on street side. Regardless of how you route the plumbing be sure the drain valves really are at the lowest points.

[nvestysly]

Originally Posted by nvestysly

…
Regardless of how you route the plumbing be sure the drain valves really are at the lowest points.

Too late to edit the prior post so here's another.

It's obvious, but be sure to avoid "sags" at any point in the PEX system so the drain valves can operate at intended.

Looking forward to seeing your trailer when it's complete. Please do consider attending an Air Forums rally in the area.

[truckasaurus]

My wife's pointed out that the project is at a stage now where it seems like nothing happens, not very motivational but it could be worse...

Today I added front marker lights, the city fill inlet and the 2nd Furrion 110V inlet, (both just above the front wheels). I'm going to need a hardwired surge protector and a transfer switch and wonder if most trailers use a auto switch or manual?

Weirder question of the day; has anyone replaced the entry door hinge pins? Mine are slowly disintegrating and I want to replace them but can't find any in stainless. Is plated steel better so that the hinge plates themselves don't get worn down and eaten away?

[truckasaurus]

I've temp installed a few of the old interior skins to see what I'm up against... corrosion. That and having moved windows, vents and the wheel wells. Lastly on spousal advice we're switching the panels around so that we don't have a seam running along the center line of the ceiling.

[truckasaurus]

A reasonably productive weekend; we got the big interior skins in for a first fit. I do like how the main ceiling sheets look without the mid point seam.

[Landshark]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

A reasonably productive weekend; we got the big interior skins in for a first fit. I do like how the main ceiling sheets look without the mid point seam.

That does look great! So smooth and shiny...

Vivian

[truckasaurus]

So close to the tipping point now. All skins have completed a test fit and the end caps have been patched up ready for Bondo to adios the unwanted factory butchered power outlet and sconce holes.

I also cut down the original corner bath tub ready for it's new role as a mid ship bathtub. This was a crucial moment and it passed with an 1/8" to spare. I was looking at using Durabak or similar to line the shower cubicle but I'm leaning back toward building a full enclosure with glass fibre and gel coat; it's like I gravitate to the most drawn out processes.

[truckasaurus]

I did a bunch of wiring yesterday, 10/3 for shore inlets and 12/3 for all AC circuits. 10/2 for DC and tomorrow i should get DC completed but dropped down to 12/2 for lights and smaller loads, all Ancor marine brand which is pretty good to work with.
It’s freakishly hot in the trailer already so I thought I’d add operators to the last two windows to keep cool; yea, no.... I have one left hand from VTS and as they are now obsolete I ordered one more left and two rights from Woodland RV. (I received one right and two left but interestingly the packaging still shows the VTS part numbers). Seriously who made these things!

I’ll see if BlaineWindow hardware has anything but if anyone has a line on operators it would be a godsend.


Interior end caps repaired and primed with Kem Kromic ready for insulation.

[truckasaurus]

This turned out to be pretty straightforward. I used some kraft paper I bought for the kids and just traced each segment. I cut them out and transferred the template to the insulation with a chalk line. I snipped these out with some magnesium metal shears I'd bought ages ago and never really liked using on sheet metal. I had read that cutting the Thinsulate was tricky but it was about as hard as cutting a cereal box open.

[truckasaurus]

I guess I won't have much of an idea of how well this stuff performs until I get the AC in and running but my observations so far would be that it's light, easy to work with and cut, easy to mount with 3M spray adhesive, expands nicely and if there's any smell at all it's like a decent new car.

I still need to cover the wheel wells and have plenty left over for the bathroom walls and the entry door.

Tomorrow the new interior skin gets washed and prepped ready for blind rivets.

[Bubba L]

We used the 3M 90 on all the interior Prodex insulation. Worked really well. You’re doing a great job. Keep posting the pictures. It really helps.

[Atomic_13]

Get yourself a disco ball and have a party in that swanky trailer. Nice job truck! Keep up the good work.

[truckasaurus]

No disco ball just yet but I did put the interior skin in today with my wife's help.

As an added bonus she said the next thing to do is get the air conditioner because it was more than a little warm working in the trailer today.

So I'll get these riveted and the doorway bucked then I can get to ordering the LG unit and a small welder to fab the mounts for the AC condenser. I may, as is always the way, need to get the propane tank too so I can fab it's mount up between the tongue jack and the AC condenser as there's almost no leeway. I'm limited to a 10 lb Worthington if I want to sink it down between the A frame and maintain the AC to trailer clearance which sucks a little but that's the plan.

I want propane for a cooktop and on demand water heater (hopefully a Truma combi which is part on demand water & part furnace) but if that doesn't work out a regular Truma on demand water heater and a Dickinson heater. My master plan is to run with a 10 lb bottle and carry a spare but I'm not seeing too many RV's with 10 lb bottles...

[Rocinante]

Wow, looks fantastic. How's the Thinsulate performing as an insulator?

[truckasaurus]

I'm not sure how it's performing yet. The thermal break tape is great though! It's gone from instantly burning my hands to nice and comfy which I just wasn't expecting at all. I have an HVAC consultant coming by tomorrow to start the planning for the mini split AC install so it shouldn't be too long until I can get some cold air going and see what it's like.

Tenuously related but I posted in the gas section my latest crazy plan to install an ASME horizontal propane tank in the trailer frame cavity with remote fill so I can do away with LP tanks on the tongue, https://www.airforums.com/forums/f28...ml#post2369923

[truckasaurus]

I thought a thermal imaging camera would reveal the insulation magic or show up flaws. It turns out in my hands it really just makes trippy images. I think it doesn't like reflective metal but I'll try again when it's got the AC running.