Still looking, avoid the rear bath? + repair questions

[wannaroam]

I posted that I was looking at a 68 Sovereign. After reading all the posts regarding the rear separation issues I'm a bit concerned about even buying a rear bath unit. Since I haven't bought anything yet, would it be better to look for something configured with the mid bath?

Also, since this has been sitting for 13 years I know that there may be a problem with the axles. If it looks as though they are still ok, would it still be advisable to replace them? (We plan on traveling a lot).

Lastly; the only damage I saw was to the fiberglass shell around the toilet. The owner said that the toilet lever/flush no longer worked and he replaced it with a new toilet. In the process of removing and installing he put a hole on either side. (He said he had a hard time taking it out and fitting the new one in). I know there are fiberglass patch kits; how hard would this be and how likely that it would look ok when you were done?

Thanks for viewing this, and for any help.

[AYRSTRM2]

Originally Posted by wannaroam

I posted that I was looking at a 68 Sovereign. After reading all the posts regarding the rear separation issues I'm a bit concerned about even buying a rear bath unit. Since I haven't bought anything yet, would it be better to look for something configured with the mid bath?

Unless you want to start looking at either a 1970 Safari (23') or the way more modern units, after I think about 1979???, you don't have much options, since you LOOK like you're wanting to go vintage. 50's units may have center baths. BUT it is NOT the baths that do this. It's age, usage, road vibrations, wheel balance, alien intervention, whatever. The only way to not get a unit with rear end sep is to not get a unit with rear end sep. Look closely and put your foot on the bumper and bounce the camper. Did the bumper move somewhat independent of the shell? Then it has it, if not, it's probably ok.

Also, since this has been sitting for 13 years I know that there may be a problem with the axles. If it looks as though they are still ok, would it still be advisable to replace them? (We plan on traveling a lot).

Yes. It will help with a lot of things. These days, with multiple options for axle replacement, this is an easy, if not cheap upgrade.

Lastly; the only damage I saw was to the fiberglass shell around the toilet. The owner said that the toilet lever/flush no longer worked and he replaced it with a new toilet. In the process of removing and installing he put a hole on either side. (He said he had a hard time taking it out and fitting the new one in). I know there are fiberglass patch kits; how hard would this be and how likely that it would look ok when you were done?
Thanks for viewing this, and for any help.

Look for Tom Williams' personal website on his 68 Overlander (or is it 67?). He has some good tutorials on these kind of repairs. You want to use the West System Epoxy. If you're really good, no one may ever notice there was a hole at all.

One more thing...A unit this old surely has an appliance or system or two non functioning. Did you run the water heater, air conditioner, water pump, oven and furnace? Hook up to both street water and put water in the tank and look for leaks everywhere. The pipes run above the floor but under the furniture and cabinets. Also, expect to replace the Univolt soon.

[wannaroam]

I appreciate the response. My hubby and I went and did a good overall look today at the AS we have been considering, utilizing knowledge that I have gained in the past week from this site.

I now have a multitude of concerns. The roof of the unit seems ok; my husband checked it out. He said it looks good but for some dents where someone apparently walked across it.

The floor appears ok in the bathroom, from what I could tell so far, as well as the rest of it, except for right inside the door. There is a 2'x2' tin piece laid over the rotted floor and under the carpet. (The icepick worked very well). I still think that the appliances are original and have been told that they all work and that there are no leaks to water lines. We can test all this if we go further. There is a patch in front of the left wheel and put on with screws. No idea what for. Two windows have been replaced with plexi. The window gaskets clearly leak and sponges have been placed inside to keep rain from running into the unit.

I jumped up and down on the rear bumper, which did not seem to move at all. But I am a munchkin (almost) so my 300# husband did it. There may have been a tiny bit of movement, but I am assuming it must be ok; shouldn't you see clear movement with someone that big bouncing on it?

And I read something about the amount of tire visible in the wheel wells. It looked to me like not enough. ? We also tried to check the tortion arm position and shoot pictures of it. I would love to post these and see whether they appear ok or not. They did clearly show rust on all visible parts of the axle.

Not knowing exactly what is pertinent, I shot copious pictures. Right now the question for us to decide is, how far gone is this??

[wahoonc]

wannaroam,
If your 300# hubby couldn't get any significant movement out of the bumper/shell connection I would assume there is minimal if any rear end separation. The biggie on the torsion arms is were they pointing up or down or neutral? With down being better. The surface rust is typical. Leaks can be repaired but I don't like the idea of the lexan replacement windows. Wing windows cost about $350 each and are not the same as the OEM, tinted and single pane vs clear and double pane.

Aaron

[wannaroam]

It was a bit difficult to get a good shot under this and show the torsion arm well.
Here is a photo. It was shot from the front of the left tire. Am I right that the arm is in the correct position, and looks ok?