|
|
10-22-2005, 05:14 AM
|
#161
|
418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
so, does your overlander have the glass sunroof? a friend of mine's has it, and i wasn't sure if it was standard or a PO addition. it looked nice, though. the nice thing about it, being glass is you have a clear view of the stars at night... the bad news (for his setup anyway) is it doesn't open to allow ventalation.
i like the look of multiple roof vents on the longer trailers, but i'm not sure how i feel about it on mine. the flat section of roof is only 8 feet, and the current vent is centered (perfect for the low profile AC unit), so i'd really have to add 2 aditional vents, front and rear. excelent ventalation, eh? how do you think that would look, though? i'm not sure off hand what size the AC unit is, but 3 vents in 8 feet? it might muddle up the roofline on the inside as well.
jp
|
Glass Sunroof...yes and no.Originally the front vent was much larger than then 2 other vents. The 2 14x14 vents had aluminum lids, and lifter mechanisms. The elongated front vent had a fiberglass lid, and also lifter mechanisms to open the lid for airflow. I see this larger vent in many trailers that were built before 1966. Some of the 80's trailers have a larger size roof vent, but I am not clear on the details on that.
My original plan was to install a flat piece of thick tinted lexan, to have a sunroof type effect. Then I decided to buy a solar dome instead, for the additional insulation and domed look if offers. It's hot where I like to camp.
Here's my thoughts to the roofline issue: adding the a/c to the trailer will distract from your roof line already. I am not sure if another low profile vent will be a bad thing or not. You can always do a cardboard mock up and lay it up there, just look at it for a while. My thread ( and others) have good pics of the fantastic vents. I used solar grey tinted lids for everything.
You can get excellent ventilation with just one good quality ventilator. Just leave a window cracked open on teh opposite side of the traier, and the fan in the ceiling will give you a nice cross flow.
|
|
|
10-22-2005, 07:53 AM
|
#162
|
4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
i have to admit, standing in the trailer with that panel off made me think about adding more light openings. what do you think about those skylights they used to put in globetrotters, or was it overlanders? they are about 10 inches wide by 20 inches or so long? right down the spine of the trailer. quite cool!
more this weekend.
jp
|
JP,
I took out that size vent in order to make room for some solar panels up there - the lid was lost somewhere before I got it and replaced with a galvanized copy, but the frame itself is still good. Anyway, if you want it, it's yours. I can send pictures if you like. Its covered in very old dried sealant but would clean up I think. You could have a new lid fabricated from plexiglass and have a big skylight. I was thinking of doing that before I removed it and put in a 14"x14" vent instead. My trailer is quite light with two of this size vent, and good ventilation too.
Looking great...
Carlos
|
|
|
10-25-2005, 04:50 AM
|
#163
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
riveting update
this weekend, i got the streetside sealed and riveted in. now it's time for the FINAL panel! yah!! i've taken out the window, and drilled out the rivets. i'm planning on putting the new panel in place tomomorrow, and drilling out te rivet holes, then hopefully (bucking-buddy willing) have the final panel riveted in thursday.
i got a nice box in the mail yesterday from airstream dreams... lights, sealer, and nuvite! i couldn't resist seeing how she would polish up. i have high hopes! this test was done by hand. my polisher and pads should be coming in this week.
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-27-2005, 12:13 PM
|
#164
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
still grindin along...
... and it's getting COLD out! better hurry! hoping to have it riveted and the door re-hung this weekend. the drip rail stretches all the way to the end caps, so i marked the rivet holes it needs to hit. tick tock tick tock....
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-27-2005, 07:41 PM
|
#165
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
prepping for sunday
Its a race against the weather, as i get the FINAL (yes FINAL!!) skin panel ready to rivet into place. again, ive used most of my clecos. everything is drilled and ready to remove, seal, and rivet into place sunday when I get back in town. I couldnt resist trying my hand at a little polishing. Its going to be a LONG process, but i wanted a taste of whats in store. since the majority of the skins are all new material, the majority of the work is in the end caps... practically the ONLY original thing left on this trailer at this point! I was quite impressed, and this is just with the rough grade. I also began sealing the inside of the end caps with Alcoa sealer. next, I plan on sealing the outside with the same stuff, then probably going over every seam from the inside out, just for good measure, after ive got the lights mounted. Resealing all 4 windows is on the ever-increasing list as well.
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-27-2005, 11:10 PM
|
#166
|
4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
|
Is that the drip rail for the door you have marked? Are you fabricating new? I found that fabrication to be relatively easy - if you have access to a brake for bending the little lip on the outside edge. I made mine out of .040 and it is a lot stronger than the original - I think I will fabricate window trim in the same way - the original is so flimsy...
Good luck this weekend!
Carlos
|
|
|
10-27-2005, 11:14 PM
|
#167
|
4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
|
Jordan,
Here is the vent if you want it, like I said, ugly with sealant, but I think both risers work and you could get a new top... It might not be worth the work though, Uwe, what did you use for that big space up there? Is it a fantastic vent product?
Carlos
|
|
|
10-28-2005, 08:09 AM
|
#168
|
418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Jordan,
Here is the vent if you want it, like I said, ugly with sealant, but I think both risers work and you could get a new top... It might not be worth the work though, Uwe, what did you use for that big space up there? Is it a fantastic vent product?
Carlos
|
I used 2 fantastic vents in the 14x14 roof vents, center and rear.
In the large front vent, I used a 14x22 solar dome from InlandRV, together with their new lifters.
|
|
|
10-30-2005, 03:49 PM
|
#169
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Is that the drip rail for the door you have marked? Are you fabricating new? I found that fabrication to be relatively easy - if you have access to a brake for bending the little lip on the outside edge. I made mine out of .040 and it is a lot stronger than the original - I think I will fabricate window trim in the same way - the original is so flimsy...
Good luck this weekend!
Carlos
|
that was for teh awning rail, actually. i saw your door molding, though, and do think i might give it a try. a friend of mine has all the big tools for the job.
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-30-2005, 03:49 PM
|
#170
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Is that the drip rail for the door you have marked? Are you fabricating new? I found that fabrication to be relatively easy - if you have access to a brake for bending the little lip on the outside edge. I made mine out of .040 and it is a lot stronger than the original - I think I will fabricate window trim in the same way - the original is so flimsy...
Good luck this weekend!
Carlos
|
that was for teh awning rail, actually. i saw your door molding, though, and do think i might give it a try. a friend of mine has all the big tools for the job.
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-30-2005, 03:51 PM
|
#171
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Jordan,
Here is the vent if you want it, like I said, ugly with sealant, but I think both risers work and you could get a new top... It might not be worth the work though, Uwe, what did you use for that big space up there? Is it a fantastic vent product?
Carlos
|
thanks carlos! let me take some measurements tomorrow and see how well it will fit. is the top piece all aluminum? i might be able to fabricate something with a glass center to let the stars in. that's the plan, anyway.
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-30-2005, 03:54 PM
|
#172
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
Skin-TASTIC!
LAST piece is in, and the door way opening roughed in as well. next up is cleaning up the door supports, and remounting the door, then i plan on tackling the eyebrow over the doorway. i really might see if i can fabricate something for that. it could definitely use a sturdier piece than the original.
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-30-2005, 04:08 PM
|
#173
|
Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
|
Looks great!
Good luck with the eyebrow. I made a pattern for mine out of cardboard; still had to try twice in metal before I got it right.
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 03:28 PM
|
#174
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
a few more exterior updates...
After an unbelievably busy month (November), I finally got a chance to update the journal on a few bits and pieces Ive buttoned up on the pickle. A little polishing on the end caps were in order to see what lies ahead of me, as well as clean it up to install the 3 clearance lights on the front. I figured it would be easier to polish things without the lenses in the way. I also plugged a few extra holes from past clearance lights with rivets. At some point in the trailers past, it had 3 lights, then 4, and what looks like 2. If this thing could talk... (what would it say about ME in a few years?). While I was at it, I finished putting in all the running lights, sealed and riveted in place. Nothings wired yet. My main goal is to get the shell sealed and leak-free at SOME point this (make that NEXT year).
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 03:44 PM
|
#175
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
Trimin it up...
The next thing I fixed was a nagging issue i had with the wheel well on the door side. I cut a cover-up piece too small when I was finishing up the body panels. The purpose of the cover-up piece was 2 fold. when I did the belly pan, i did not allow enough material in the mill aluminum to meet with the original wheel well cutouts. Secondly, i wanted alclad aluminum in the center section, so it would bling up as nice as the top will. I had been putting off cutting out the bad piece and installing it long enough (I really HATE doing stuff twice! especially when its due to my own stupidity!) Anyway, out with the old, in with the new. That Vulkem I used did NOT want to let go! (good news for the rest of the trailer). After the piece was in place, I followed Carloss thread on the trim for the wheel wells. Very simple, and OH SO worth the effort. First, I mark the center of the trim piece, since my wheel wells are peaked. Next, I marked the curves on the tabs, cut small tabs, and pulled them apart with 2 pairs of pliers. After test fitting that in place, i marked on the back where the radius curve of the belly pan starts, and bent the trim around a small paint can. At this point, the piece doesnt look like much, but once its beat into place on the body, it looks great! When drilling the rivet holes, I held a small scrap of wood against the back of the trim to make sure nothing changed locations when the holes drilled. I love the way the trim disappears under the trailer before it ends. Very clean.
What's next? Windows, and the door eyebrow, I guess... then MAYBE (with the aid of a space heater) I can start on the interior this winter. progress, albiet slow is still progress!
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 05:34 PM
|
#176
|
Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
|
Looks really great - where did you get your wheel well trim from?
Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 05:40 PM
|
#177
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
got this info from carlos. here's the link to the one you need. have it cut into 4 foot pieces for shipment, unless you are doing a tandem axle. anything over 5 feet costs loads more to ship. i have an extra 4 foot piece i'm thinking about using on either side of the step area. why not? i've got it left over, right?
http://www.brunnerent.com/Tools/Port...=1&strMetaTag=
jordan
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 05:46 PM
|
#178
|
Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
|
Thanks - and yes mine is a tandem so guess I better get the checkbook out....
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 06:51 PM
|
#179
|
2 Rivet Member
1977 27' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 48
|
Jordan,
I have been reading your thread and don't know what you decided on your vents and I don't see any in your latest post. But, I have to weigh in on the fantastic fans. I added 3 this weekend to my 27' Overlander and am thoroughly impressed with how they came out and how they work.
I have read about your idea of a glass sunroof and all I can say is nooooooooooo! I have seen the UV damage inside my Airstream and whatever I can UV protect, I definitely will. Sun exposure over the past almost 30 years has all but destroyed my endcaps. This is one of the reasons I opted for the UV protected fans.
The major reason of course being that I have animals and plan to full time starting in the spring and would not put them at risk should I lose power.
Your work is awesome! Good Luck, stay warm!. It was sunny but a bit chill on top of the trailer at 40 degrees here in Alabama!
Jennifer
|
|
|
12-11-2005, 07:16 PM
|
#180
|
4 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Lowell
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 435
|
Question for Floor Replacement Experts
Okay, so I'm really curious if you floor-replacement experts think that I need to replace my floor. I have three small holes in it (about 6" across each) in different places. One looks like it was from water coming in through a broken (now replaced) window, one because of water coming up from underneath where the belly pan was damaged, and one below the refrigerator where over the years of defrosting the unit, water got on the floor. Anyhow, the floor feels solid everywhere... except for the holes obviously, but they're just holes, not soft around the holes.
So ... what does everyone think?
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|