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Old 10-16-2005, 05:17 PM   #141
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Tool of teh Year Nomination....

... for skin replacement, anyway...

i bought this air nibbler on eBay for $40-ish. it makes duping panels a snap! literally. all i've been doing is take the old panels off, lay the new 2024 face down on some saw horses, flatten any dents in the old crap, and clamp it face down to the back of teh new stuff. the nibbler has a built in guide that can follow the original panel. before you know it, you're done! it's so good, it actually duplicated the sloppy 1959 cutting on some panels.

if you're replacing skin, GET THIS TOOL!

jp
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Old 10-16-2005, 06:48 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
... for skin replacement, anyway...

i bought this air nibbler on eBay for $40-ish. it makes duping panels a snap! literally. all i've been doing is take the old panels off, lay the new 2024 face down on some saw horses, flatten any dents in the old crap, and clamp it face down to the back of teh new stuff. the nibbler has a built in guide that can follow the original panel. before you know it, you're done! it's so good, it actually duplicated the sloppy 1959 cutting on some panels.

if you're replacing skin, GET THIS TOOL!

jp
I got mine at www.harborfreight.com, works great as well. Needs frequent lubrication, like all air tools, but was a steal. Bought my air shears there, too. Those work great for straight cuts with clean edges.
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Old 10-16-2005, 06:54 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
FIrst up when the package gets here, reseal the endcaps! then she’ll FINALLY be water-tight, and i can <gulp> start polishing those ends to see if they match. please-o-please-o-please!

jp
Jordan,
Don't worry, the shine will be so dazzling, that you, or anyone else for that matter, won't even notice the very very slight difference in color from the old panel to the new panel.
I did some polishing on my new panel where it meets the old panels, and can barely tell the difference. It seems that the difference in color and shine after polishing is much greater in existing panels, especially the curved segments against the straight sections. But, here again, it is difficult to distinguish, because of the different angles the light hits them.
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Old 10-16-2005, 09:03 PM   #144
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JP

I like all those floorplans. I think the bed in back in plans one and three is nice - especially if you ever have friends over - they will see a dinette or couch first instead of your bed. Otherwise, all of them use the space quite well.

What about that wet bath? How are you planning on making the shower pan? What are the dimensions you have figured?

Thanks,

Carlos
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:46 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
What about that wet bath? How are you planning on making the shower pan? What are the dimensions you have figured?
i'm not 100% certain on the size yet. i'm going to use uwe's idea on laying it out first. i'll let you know what i find out. i'll be having the whole pan and tank fabricated out of stainless steel from a local shop. i'm planning on starting on the bath first and working everything else around that... probably december.
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:51 AM   #146
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Exclamation Condensation Issues!!

hi all,

when i removed the rear inner caps this weekend, i started early in the morning, and noticed that the inner skin was completely covered with condensation (see pic). it's apparently been happening for a while. the aluminum is actually water-spotted on both caps from it. it was enough water to keep the inside of the wall moist, and probably even look like a leak, once things are back together.

has anyone ever done anything to prevent the condensation build-up? i was considering coating the inside of the top panels with undercoating once everything else is sealed, so act as a mild deterrant. i'm particularly concerned with any inner-wall moisture, as i'll be applying a wood laminate to the inner skins, and do NOT want water stains to start showing up down the road pun intended .

jp
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Old 10-17-2005, 11:28 AM   #147
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latest update...

forgot to post the final pics of sunday's endeavor. i'm down to the LAST cleco on the curb-side. everything's trimmed and ready to seal and rivet. the 2 pieces of 2024 hanging down will wrap up under the belly and blend in nicely. i finished off the wheel well openings on the street side as well. all that's left on them is the stiffening bar behind them, and the trim pieces.

those wheels GOTTA GO! the better the pickle looks, the worse those wheels do! ha! maybe i'll save that for last, too. get the kid a new pair of sneakers before i send her off to school.

jp
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Old 10-18-2005, 06:28 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
i'll be having the whole pan and tank fabricated out of stainless steel from a local shop. i'm planning on starting on the bath first and working everything else around that... probably december.
That sounds like a good idea. Any idea how you will handle the door and walls? I have been puzzling over how to make something that is more or less removable in case of tank or plumbing problems - but still gets the water only where it should go. If you have any thoughts about these things, post em'!

Carlos
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Old 10-18-2005, 06:57 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
...If you have any thoughts about these things, post em'!
will do, but at the rate you're going, you're going to beat me to it!



jp
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:10 PM   #150
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Exclamation Condensation thoughts

Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
hi all,

when i removed the rear inner caps this weekend, i started early in the morning, and noticed that the inner skin was completely covered with condensation (see pic). it's apparently been happening for a while. the aluminum is actually water-spotted on both caps from it. it was enough water to keep the inside of the wall moist, and probably even look like a leak, once things are back together.

has anyone ever done anything to prevent the condensation build-up? i was considering coating the inside of the top panels with undercoating once everything else is sealed, so act as a mild deterrant. i'm particularly concerned with any inner-wall moisture, as i'll be applying a wood laminate to the inner skins, and do NOT want water stains to start showing up down the road pun intended .

jp
The picture of condensation really shows what must be a longtime airstream problem. Two metal layers, sealed, with no ventalation, does not sound like a good idea. When I took the inner skins off of my Bambi I noticed a lot of oxidation in the aluminum and the elevatior bolts were very rusty. I imagine everybody has found the same thing. I had been thinking about what they do today when they redo a roof on a house. They install vents at the top of the roof and in the bottom so air can circulate for the purpose of removing moisture. Water vapor escaping from a house has always been a problem with exterior paint and wood rot,etc. I have not come up with what I would consider a good solution as of yet. But have had some thoughts. Most to date are too much work. Here goes on one thought. Each section between ribs in the shell should have ventelation. Two or three sections could be joined as a unit by drilling a 1" hole in the bottom and top of the ribs. Next there are small round vents with screened openings that are available for machine and electronic use. One or two of these could be mounted in holes in the "C" channel and through the plywood floor. This would allow fresh air to enter in the bottom of the wall sections. The top of the sections could be joined by tubing (1" in diameter) with hole in it for the air moving up between the sections. The air would be collected in this tube and exit into holes in the ribs around the top vent window. Then if the top vent window was left open a crack, this should allow a circulation of air between the walls. I was thinking of this method because I don't like the idea of putting any new holes for tubing to exit the top of the roof. That would just be asking for another leak. I am open to anyones ideas on a modification of this idea. Probably just getting carried away!!! If anyone is interested in such a maybe crazy idea, I might do a drawing.
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:45 PM   #151
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carlos has some good input on the condensation issues. it's not nearly as bad on panels once they are insulated. i'm going to add drain holes in the bottom of the channel, so nothing pools up. are you planning on going the foil insulation route? i definitely am.

search for "foil bubble insulation methods" (thanks again to carlos for that info, as well!) clean, light, and NO ITCHY HANDS! i'm putting the 1/2" spacers on the outside, so my wires can be run inside the insulation for access.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:59 AM   #152
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Test Fitting the door...

i notched the ribs to get them in line with the door frame, and replaced the horizontal braces with new ones made from left over 040 scraps. when the door flew open in transit in a previous life, it bent the heck out of those horizontal pieces, deflecting the side panel a good bit, and making the door not close properly. with everything straight, it's almost right on teh money. the door frame still needs attention, as it cracked in 2 at the latch. more on that after the last 2 skin panels are replaced.
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:07 AM   #153
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Curb-side almost done...

... also finally got the curb side rivetted in place. All that's left is final trimming and wrapping of the belly extensions i riveted in.

what do ya think of that tool box? (got an extra name plate from Airstream Dreams, and thought this a perfect fit!)

jp
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:29 PM   #154
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Tool Box

Way Cool!!!
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:42 PM   #155
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Love the tool box. I have to admit I did the artwork for those nameplates and, other than being on a vintage Airstream, that is the best use of one I've seen. That toolbox wears it with pride. Its beaming from ear to ear.

Brad
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Old 10-21-2005, 04:39 PM   #156
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got an early jump on the weekend...

... and started on the top. the upper panels on my trailer are exactly 4X8.. no trimming necessary! i was the most worried about these panels (in terms of fitting), but what a snap! i did start 2 inch cuts at the bottom of the window openings, and drilled the top corners to ease in cutting the window opening out later. no rush on that. i'm going to leave them plugged until the last minute. just one less leak to track down.

anyway, got the piece fit, and clecoed, then it started to rain. i should have this riveted in place in the morning, and hopefully, if the curb-side goes as smooth, i can say the same thing about that tomorrow... and the skin replacement will be DONE!! (except the door, i know i know... it's NEVER done...) more this weekend, weather permitting!

this is going really smooth... probably shouldn't have said that...

jp
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:46 PM   #157
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Hey Jordan,
This is looking great! Yours will be a very nice finished product. Kudos for doing quality work. Just look at this thing!!

Question, though....are you replacing the inner skins as well? Be careful so that the windows go in the EXACT same position, otherwise the inner skins will not fit back into place.
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Old 10-21-2005, 09:13 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Question, though....are you replacing the inner skins as well? Be careful so that the windows go in the EXACT same position, otherwise the inner skins will not fit back into place.
hey man, thanks for the tip, as always. i do plan on having the windows in the same locations, and will make sure to keep em exactly in the same place. as for the interior panels, i am planning on using a maple laminate on all the visible interior skins, leaving them bare aluminum in unexposed areas (like under the couch, or the bed, cabinets, etc), and right now, i'm leaning towards cherry for the cabinets and trim. maple flooring as well, probably pergo or whatever.

anyway, i'm getting ahead of myself, this weekend is all about skin, baby! you know, now i'm thinking about adding a couple of skylights or vents. my trailer has one vent, dead center. i plan on putting in an AC in it, so if i'm boondocking, or camping in the spring/fall... i feel like i should have some ventilation or light coming in from above (do the AC units have a ventilation fan that runs off 12V?). i have to admit, standing in the trailer with that panel off made me think about adding more light openings. what do you think about those skylights they used to put in globetrotters, or was it overlanders? they are about 10 inches wide by 20 inches or so long? right down the spine of the trailer. quite cool!

more this weekend.

jp
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Old 10-21-2005, 09:54 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
i feel like i should have some ventilation or light coming in from above (do the AC units have a ventilation fan that runs off 12V?). i have to admit, standing in the trailer with that panel off made me think about adding more light openings. what do you think about those skylights they used to put in globetrotters, or was it overlanders? they are about 10 inches wide by 20 inches or so long? right down the spine of the trailer. quite cool!

more this weekend.

jp
Jordan,

I have very little experience with tiny trailers like yours, as I presonally prefer 25ft and up.
However, I can tell you that the 2 fantastic fans and the 14X22( ??forgot the exact size) vent in the front of the Overlander ( like yiou mentioned above) add a very nice and friendly light during the day, plus of course the added ventilation options.
A/C units typically do not offer 12V vent fans.
I opted for 2 solar grey Fantastic fans, and a solar grey front vent cover for my Overlander.
the fans allow light to come through, because even the fan blade is transparent. It feels light and natural inside my Overlander during the day.
The tint is dark enough to not be annoyingly bright when the sun hits the roof.
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Old 10-22-2005, 04:35 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
...the 14X22( ??forgot the exact size) vent in the front of the Overlander ( like yiou mentioned above) add a very nice and friendly light during the day, plus of course the added ventilation options...
so, does your overlander have the glass sunroof? a friend of mine's has it, and i wasn't sure if it was standard or a PO addition. it looked nice, though. the nice thing about it, being glass is you have a clear view of the stars at night... the bad news (for his setup anyway) is it doesn't open to allow ventalation.

i like the look of multiple roof vents on the longer trailers, but i'm not sure how i feel about it on mine. the flat section of roof is only 8 feet, and the current vent is centered (perfect for the low profile AC unit), so i'd really have to add 2 aditional vents, front and rear. excelent ventalation, eh? how do you think that would look, though? i'm not sure off hand what size the AC unit is, but 3 vents in 8 feet? it might muddle up the roofline on the inside as well.

jp
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