Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-06-2005, 04:06 PM   #121
4 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
water n' wood

M-C,

I have been reading your posts and thought I would send some ideas - I am just a few days ahead of you on my trailer - I just finished leak-proofing and insulating, am getting ready to put in the interior.

Leak-proofing: when I finished the new skin parts and exterior/windows, I found I still had some leaks front and back. I considered doing what you are talking about, re-sealing the entire endcaps anew, and I do think it would be a good idea. I couldn't bring myself to do it though, It seemed like too much time... I was also worried about screwing up the joints between the endcap pieces, mine wasn't quite perfect from the factory and it looks like there could be trouble if I took it apart. Instead, I did a very careful job with alcoa aluminum seam sealer (airstream dreams) and a syringe. This does wick quite well, and leaks are now gone. I expect I will need to reseal every few years, but it was pretty quick and painless to do this seal-up, and all the leaks stopped when I was done.

Interior with wood: it's my sense that the structural importance of the interior aluminum skin is perhaps a little overstated - I do think it serves some function... but I am also pretty sure I could drive on down the road as my trailer currently sits - insulation and no inside skin... Certainly the fiberglass endpieces serve no structural function, they just hang by their edges, and are relatively heavy too. I plan to replace the inside skin with 1/8" baltic birch ply, 5'x5' sheets joined together to make longer pieces. I will increase the number of rivets to the shell too. The birch ply is pretty strong, I use it for lots of other things and I think it will have a good percentage of the strength of the aluminum that I am removing... It is also about 20% the cost of aluminum which is a bonus. More finishing though. Of course I could be wrong about all of this (and I know I am in the minority with this opinion about interior skins) but I promise to report to the list if my trailer falls in two pieces! Let us know what you decide to do with your interior wood.

Carlos Ferguson
jcferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 09:29 AM   #122
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,428
Images: 14
I have found on my 26 foot trailer that the interior skins play a big role. This past week I've been putting my skins back in and the amount of flex in the rear has decreased a lot. The concern I have about wood is the flexing that goes on will loosen up the screw holes as it goes down the road - I supposed if you could glue the wood on that would be better, however, if you ever need to get back behind the wall again...............

Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 04:21 PM   #123
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
i am changing my tune slightly on the interior wood panels. now i'm starting to think the laminate bonded to the aluminum might be the better way to go... certainly on teh end caps. this morning, i removed the interior end caps (mine has 7 panels riveted aluminum, no fiberglass), and the compound curve of that metal would be darn near impossible to duplicate out of bendi-ply. i'm not 100% certain i can even laminate a compound curve like that, but i think it's a sounder approach.

my NEW line of thinking is to get a maple laminate (that will match the floors), and laminate all the end cap pieces individually BEFORE i reassemble them, then pop-rivet them together and cover the lines of rivets with a solid wood trim piece, either riveted or even better, hex-head screwed to the panels. that would allow better access, should i need it (HEAVEN FORBID!!!)

i think laminating these pieces individually outside the trailer will ease the installation a bit. yes, i'm still concerned with the expansion rates of laminate vs aluminum, but i think with enough adhesive, it might be ok.

i'm still a ways away from that stage, so i've got plenty of noodling time left.

jordan
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 04:24 PM   #124
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
M-C,

I have been reading your posts and thought I would send some ideas - I am just a few days ahead of you on my trailer - I just finished leak-proofing and insulating, am getting ready to put in the interior....
hey carlos,

my tin can has a horrible leak on teh rear somewhere, and the front cap as well. did you determine if the leaks were coming from between the seams? i have looked very closely at my front cap, since taking off the interior panels, and don't think i can determine where the water is coming from. the back is bad, though... REALLY bad. it's definitely coming in from the rear window or above. everything below is really tight, and sealed well.

here's the best method i've come up with so far... (it's the quickest way i've found to lower your property value.)
Attached Images
 
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 04:38 PM   #125
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Unhappy progress report...

this is going a LOT slower than i thought! i had PLANNED on pulling both lower panels today, but one thing lead to another, and all i managed to get done was fitting the new panel. hopefully, if the rain doesn't come back, i'll have the streetside riveted in this week, and can start on the other side lower next weekend... then the panel above that both sides, and on to the door... it seems like it's never going to end! i've also got to track down these horrible leaks somewhere in there.

one thing that i had to do today was add belly pan extensions to the bottom, so i could continue the clean curve from the wheelwell right into the belly. the mill stuff i used wasn't large enough, and i didn't really want to polish it anyway, since i know it won't hold a shine long... so i took the long way around, and cut patches of 2024 025 to rivet between the skin and floor, and once riveted, will stretch these over the existing bellypan, and pop-rivet into place underneath. they are long enough to reach the main frame members. basically, the belly will have 2 layers of aluminum on the sides. i'm planning on running a small bead of vulkem along the front edge of the front piece, to inhibit water leaking in during transit, since the new arrangement leaves a leading edge.

this little roadblock, combined with the fact that the original 4X8 panels used for the sides were not completely square had lead to a less than anticipated productive day. not many pics this time, unfortunately...
Attached Images
  
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2005, 06:54 PM   #126
4 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
my tin can has a horrible leak on teh rear somewhere, and the front cap as well. did you determine if the leaks were coming from between the seams?
here's the best method i've come up with so far... (it's the quickest way i've found to lower your property value.)

Those are exactly the words I would have used to describe my condition pre-sealing. I think the water was entering the seams on the outside, probably wicking in all up and down the endcap seams, then running down the rivet lines between these end cap panels till it reached the window, then coming out behind the pieces of aluminum just above the window (on the inside). Then dripping in form of mini-river all over my nice new floor. I tried to seal it from the inside but had no luck. I used the alcoa gutterseal carefully on each seam (I cleaned them with steel wool and mek first) and the leaks disappeared completely. The alcoa stuff (airstream dreams has it) really wicks into the seams well. I wouldn't have believed it, but indeed it does. It doesn't take much if you can get a syringe with a big needle and grind the needle down to a nub, then just run that needle-nub along the seam and fill-er-up. Pretty much invisible and seems quite strong. Let me know if you want more details, I will post some pictures to my thread (1962 22' Safari) soon. I imagine taking the thing apart and vulkem-ing in there would be a very solid alternative and last as long as you would, but man, think of all that rivetting.

Re wood: I have the fiberglass endcaps and I think I am going to put them back in and rivet the wood to the fiberglass in that part. I agree it would be pretty tough to get the curves just right in there. I think the rivets look pretty good on the wood, so I won't cover them, aluminum and birch together.

Carlos
jcferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2005, 07:01 PM   #127
4 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
this is going a LOT slower than i thought!

basically, the belly will have 2 layers of aluminum on the sides

To the first part: A-men, brother. I just spent about two hours trying to find a match for a piece of tubing that goes through my wall and acts as a vent for the sink. You just don't factor these things in when you are thinking about what you are going to get done the next day.

Second part: I put extra little pieces of skin inside my belly skin around all my outriggers as they were poking on my belly skin a bit more than I liked, so my arrangement is similar to yours. I think this double aluminum will help keep things looking good there. My outriggers had rubbed some pretty good lines into my original belly skin...

Carlos
jcferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 07:25 AM   #128
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
...I think the water was entering the seams on the outside, probably wicking in all up and down the endcap seams, then running down the rivet lines between these end cap panels till it reached the window, then coming out behind the pieces of aluminum just above the window (on the inside)....
ditto for me. mine seems to be doing exactly the same thing. i'm removing the inner cap panels this weekend, then i guess i'll uncover it and hose it down to be sure, but those end cap seams on mine have nothing between them but dirt. there's no sealer at all. that probably explains the mountains of goop on the inside, eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
...I used the alcoa gutterseal carefully on each seam (I cleaned them with steel wool and mek first) and the leaks disappeared completely...
did you go from the inside or the outside? photos would be a bonus!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
...I think I am going to put them back in and rivet the wood to the fiberglass in that part....
i've definitely sold myself on laminating. no question about it. when i apply the adhesive, i'm going to put enough on there to stick an elephant to the ceiling... see if it bubbles, then! ha! how are you going to get the laminate to fit closely around the molded cabinet? does your end cap have the cabinet molded in it? i've decided to loose the cabinet on mine, so the maple pleats will all come together unobstructed over the window, with a nice nickle plated nautical clock right in the middle. man, i CAN'T WAIT to start on the inside!!! i'm about aluminated out.
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 08:03 PM   #129
4 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 390
Yep, same, I am going to cut out the molded cabinet with a hand saw, then maybe rivet some aluminum to the back (the "inside" of the fiberglass end cap to help it hold shape around that big hole where the shelf used to be, then I am going to rivet my 1/8" baltic birch plywood pieces (eleven? like the 50's trailers?) over the fiberglass, overlapping each a bit. I should be to this in the next few days and I will put up pictures. I still consider putting metal on the interior endcaps since the rest will be wood, for contrast. I am not positive yet - I think they would look good aluminum with a wood shelf in the middle that matched the rest of the wood.

NO sealant on my end cap either. Huh? It doesn't look like there was ever any there, and there are some rather large "waves" between some of the rivets joining two segments of the end cap. I can't see how this wouldn't have leaked from day one. I expect this explains, at least partially, the rusted areas front and back in my trailer. I put the gutter seal on the outside. It doesn't really show at all, the shadow of the overlap hides it. I sealed up the inside as best I could but the leak remained as the water just ran down to where it hit the window, THEN exited onto the inside of the window. In order to fully seal from the inside, you practically would have to take out the window, certainly the trim around it anyway...

I will post some pictures of my sealing tools on my thread tomorrow evening.

Keep on truckin. As soon as you get those skins on you will be abuildin'! It was so exciting to get to insulating and cover up all that aluminum, I can't wait to put in my cork floor... Right now I am spending money like crazy, water heater, sink, stove, toilet, compressor for a built in top loading fridge, heater, wires... bank account waning, boxes of things to install waxing like the harvest moon.

Tell me about your battery plans when you have an idea. What kind are you going to use? Trojan 105's? I was thinking an interior box with vents, but have to research the vents and maybe a muffin fan for more ventilation.

Carlos
jcferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 06:06 AM   #130
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
plans, plans, plans

everything seems to change when you get into it, but here's where i am so far (i'll include 2 other plans i was playing with up until this one). what i'm trying to do is get teh maximum amount of day-time useable space out of a 15 foot shell... WITHOUT having to fold the bed up and down. that was teh one request from the misses she wouldn't budge on... and i have to admit, i like the idea of sleeping on a bed, rather than a folded down couch. plus, one of us can get up while the other sleeps in... and most importantly, with a baby on the way (yep! i'm gonna be a dad in april! ), it'll be a place to keep teh youn-un while we still have some room to move about.... who am i kidding.. it's 15 feet! i think i've crammed about as much storage and useability into that space as i possibly could!

here's the plans...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	option1.jpg
Views:	406
Size:	50.4 KB
ID:	15237   Click image for larger version

Name:	option2.jpg
Views:	310
Size:	45.6 KB
ID:	15238  

Click image for larger version

Name:	FinalOpt.jpg
Views:	462
Size:	63.6 KB
ID:	15239  
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 08:02 AM   #131
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,428
Images: 14
I like option 1 - its the same layout I had in my 59 Traveler. When the kids were young, they both slept on the dinette, when they got older, one slept on the dinette and the other on a small cot that went under (feet end) the dinette - worked great! People could not believe 4 of us were comfortable in that trailer.

Then my wife decided the trailer was too small.............(after the kids were gone)

Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 09:53 AM   #132
Rivet Master
 
fastrob's Avatar
 
1976 25' Tradewind
. , AZ to Maine
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 575
Wet Bath

Congratulations, childern make life better not easier.
Do you plan on using your old wet bath or do you plan on purchasing/fabricating a wet bath?
My rear bath wastes too much space.
Have others moved or changed baths easily?
fastrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 10:06 AM   #133
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
...People could not believe 4 of us were comfortable in that trailer....
i forgot to mention the 2 dogs, too. they way those dogs think they run things, the misses and i will be on the couch. ha!

jp
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 10:09 AM   #134
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Rob
Congratulations, childern make life better not easier.
Do you plan on using your old wet bath or do you plan on purchasing/fabricating a wet bath?
thanks! i'm looking forward to it.

as for the bath, my trailer had nothing in it... not even a floor, so i'm planning on having a stainless steel pan made at the fabrication shop i've been using for other bits and bobs. once i get the interior walls back in i can get accurate measurements. i might just get them to weld the black tank into the pan, so i can get the slight slope on top to let the water run to the drain. not 100% sure how i'm going to tackle that one yet. i've even considered a flat floor, and using the grey tank as a black only. it sure would simplify things... especially on a trailer this short!

jp
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 10:23 AM   #135
Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
 
flyfshr's Avatar

 
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,336
Images: 40
I think you came to the right conclusion. I like option three too. I think you'll find you'll want a fold down shelf to the right of the sink for some kind of counter space. Counter space is a must when cooking and cleaning up afterwards. Also, will the water heater clear the wheelwell?

Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1

I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
flyfshr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 11:19 AM   #136
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,771
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Jordan,

Your floor plans look great. All three are nice.
Here is how I arrived at my actual floor plan, after drawing it out on paper:
I completely emptied the trailer, left only the stuff int ehre that's essential or would be part of the interior later, like the a/c and water heater, and in my case also the tub.
I thenlaid rosin paper over the entire floor and outlined the areas where the furniture will be. This way I got a very good idea what teh flow inside would be.
I found out that a 52in bed is entirely possible, and still squeeze through to get to the bathroom, and that 36in makes a very comforable single bed, with out the bed being pulled out.
The outline also gives you a very good idea about the bathroom size etc. You can stand on it and bang your elbow into an imaginary wall...or see if your behind fits in teh space you gave the the imaginary toilet...
Ask me how I know all this..
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 11:48 AM   #137
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,771
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Jordan,
Just had another annoying thought..
I believe that absorption refrigerators work better on the shaded side of the trailer. So, if you are going to have an awning, then the curb side fridge layout might give you better results, as the ( future?) awning shades the skin behind the refrigerator and helps the cooling eficiency. Just a minor thing, but worth mentioning.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 05:03 PM   #138
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
I think you came to the right conclusion. I like option three too. I think you'll find you'll want a fold down shelf to the right of the sink for some kind of counter space. Counter space is a must when cooking and cleaning up afterwards. Also, will the water heater clear the wheelwell?

Brad
FF
a fold down counter is DEFINITELY in the works. i jsut don't know where to fit it at this point. i think that will have to wait until i get the interior together and mocked up. This trailer layout is going to be the swiss-army-knife of trailer layouts! i'm using every single inch, with the exception of the far corner of the bed. i am tempted to put the trunk back in there, but i just can't bring myself to ruin the clean lines of the back. i plan on carrying the clean theme around the rest of the trailer as well. one of the panels i removed was only 8 feet long, and had no less than 5 holes cut into it for various access points, hookups, etc. not on the new pickle! the vent for the overhead hood only uses about 1/3 of the vent that's visible outside. i'll redo all those small... as small as possible... but i'm not cutting even the marker lights into her until all teh panels and door are back on, and the end caps polished. that should be a site. i can't wait! it'll be in december, i hope... as long as i don't freexe me bollocks off!

the water-heater is iffy. i dunno yet. worst case, i can put it on the side with teh water tank, but the water will have to travel a little further to get to the faucet.

jp
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 05:05 PM   #139
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
...Ask me how I know all this..

that was my plan exactly! well, sorta. i was thinking about actually mocking up walls, etc with some of the original panels i saved from the interior a few months ago.

so... how do you know?

haha!



jp
__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2005, 05:11 PM   #140
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Fixin the ugly

I’m “sans-bucking-buddy”, so all I can do is cut the panels, and cleco to the best of my ability. That really turns out to be a 2 person job as well. one person presses the panel firm against the ribs, wheel-wells, etc, while I use all my nifty new tools and drill from the inside out. Anyway, i managed to get rid of the biggest eyesore on the pickle!!! NO MORE BONDO!!!! i have to say, in reflection, looking at the trailer now, and thinking back to the day i first set eyes on that piece of crap, and somehow fell in love...I’ve learned a LOT! When i bought her, i was worried about how to make a skin patch... now i’m thinking i should replace the roof, too! crap! why not? ha! Once you get into it, it’s all steak and potatoes.

So, I digress. today brought cutting out the HORRIBLE panel, replacing the horizontal ribbing that a friend of mine made on one of his many metal working tools. they were SO badly bent, it actually caused the door to not line up correctly. I couldn’t figure out why, until i replaced those ribs. I couldn’t resist, so i installed the door, with no panels, and it fits pretty snug. i’m still totally redoing it, however. new aluminum, new construction design, and i need to strengthen the frame at the door handle. More on that later.

Tomorrow, the misses is gonna help me rivet in the LAST of the lower panels. then all that’s left (panel-wise) is both uppers on both sides. I’ve also ordered a slew of stuff from airstreamdreams that should keep me busy for a while. FIrst up when the package gets here, reseal the endcaps! then she’ll FINALLY be water-tight, and i can <gulp> start polishing those ends to see if they match. please-o-please-o-please!

jp
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1137.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	232.9 KB
ID:	15252   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1138.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	242.2 KB
ID:	15253  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1150.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	164.8 KB
ID:	15254   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1152.jpg
Views:	150
Size:	212.2 KB
ID:	15255  

__________________

• • •
• • • • •
8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need a step? jcanavera 2001 Safari 8 01-26-2003 11:05 AM
Handy hitch step Pahaska Our Community 0 06-26-2002 05:44 PM
Need step by step instructions Grady White Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 3 06-25-2002 02:35 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.