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Old 11-30-2006, 06:20 PM   #321
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early start on the weekend...

... well, i had a little time this evening, so i started on the door. it had suffered the inevitable suicide door flop open at speed treatment, so the frame was cracked, bowed, basically abused. i removed all the interior skins, cleaned up the crack, and david welded it back to as close tot he original bow as i could get. i can fine tune it once the interior pieces start going back on the door. after it was welded, i started working on the right vertical piece. first i sheared it to size, then used a break to give it the 3/8 inch lip that goes in where the door inside a door fits, then used the break again to make the outter edge (the door has a nice tapered edge to it.) looks really cool up close. this weekend, when it's light out, i'll get better pics. then teh ol basic cleco, rivet deal, and ouala.

in the meantime, here we are. i'm hoping i can finish the other 3 panels on saturday, and get the interior part of the door buttoned up as well. i decided to go with .040 for the door, both th eoutside and inside panels. it will definitely sturdy things up. i can tell already with just one of the panels done.

jp
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:49 PM   #322
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Oh, the things I could do with a brake, shear and an aluminum welder. Someday. Looks like nice work. Do you make house calls?

Brad
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:32 PM   #323
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There is a saying in the aviation world that refers to retractable gear aircraft.
"There are those who have, and there are those who will" Sorry about the door. I've been there and done that!
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Old 12-01-2006, 02:13 AM   #324
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oh, i wish they were mine! i'm just fortunate enough to have access to a shop.
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:31 AM   #325
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We Have A Door!!!

... well, about half of one... i picked up where i left off on the door project, shearing and breaking metal panels to form the outside door of the silverpickle. i'm using .040 on everything, thinking it would make the door more sturdy. man, was i right! unbelievable difference. i don't know if it because the thicker metal, or the freshly rivetted panels, but there's hardly any deflection in the panels at all now. amazing!

here's a few pics of the before lunch work. test-fitting the exterior vertical pieces, and checking the curve against the trailer. notice the rolled lip on the door skins where the door in a door goes. very classy!

jp
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:33 AM   #326
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Door bottom...

after lunch i worked on forming the exterior lower portion of the door, 2 shears, 3 breaks and a little belt sander work, and she was ready to install. here'ss a few pieces more pics...
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:37 AM   #327
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...flip her over...

... satisfied with the fit of the 3 exterior lower panels, i decided to flip it over and start on the interior panels. this adds a TREMENDOUS amount of structure to the door. when i was drilling the holes for the new inner skins (also .040), i put a little pressure on the door frame to give it a little more curvature to it. i als employeed the same insulation methodology i've been using on the rest of the trailer...
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:44 AM   #328
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... test-fitting...

... finally with the 3 exterior lower pieces, and the 3 interior lower pieces installed, i test fit the door. ouala! the top and bottom edges suck in WAY better to the body than before i started on this endeavor.
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:49 AM   #329
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Before/After

here's a before and after comparisson... not only is the door sucked in, but it's incredibly more rigid as well. next on the agenda is the top pieces, eyebrow for the door in a door, and the second door. i might be able to get to all that before the next weekend, if not then. forming the edge on the top piece (exterior) has me scared. it's not a simple straight break, so that will have to be done, probably by hand. not looking forward to it... working .040 2024 is tough. it's about as unformable as aluminum gets (for this application, anyway).

time consuming, but well worth the effort!

jp
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Old 12-03-2006, 09:43 AM   #330
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looking really good....great we have had such terrific weather ( apologies to the mid west and others) so we are able to work outside. I hung out in my trailer last night, had some wine, some alone time with the guitar and the lp heater on 60...very nice.
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Old 12-03-2006, 04:51 PM   #331
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i'm so glad you didn't sell your trailer, man! HOPEFULLY, i'll be bringing the little guy to the april rally in hiawassee. it's too early to say for sure, but i think that's manageable.

jp
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:41 PM   #332
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Hey JP, my trailer was hit by something in the door frame and main frame so I hear ya!

When I see you at Topsail I show you mine.
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Old 12-09-2006, 09:30 AM   #333
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there's nothiing exact about these airstream door frames, that's for sure! but finally, i have all 4 outter pieces back together. i still need to rivet on the eyebrow, and put in the upper panel on the inside, but that's going to have to wait for a few days. it's freezing outside this morning!

anyway, on to the pics. the top piece is on, but still needs to have the decor edge formed in. the door handle is lubed up, and works like new! (that will need to be replated later... i can't WAIT to see THAT bill!) the holes for the door in a door latches are drilled, and teh old latches (both broken) are temporarily holding the door nice and snug. replacements are enroute from VTS, in my seemingly weekly shipment...

next up, reskinning the smaller door, and finishing the interior panels and gutter. then it's door seal time, and i'm done. i'm sorta torn on the door seal at this point. i have enough of the VintageTrailerSupply door seal to do both inner and outter, but in my test fit, the seal is so thick it makes it near impossible to close the door. has anyone else used this? does it settle down after a while? the seal was airtight, so that's a good thing! just don't want to strain every time i shut the door...

jp
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Old 12-09-2006, 09:55 AM   #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
there's nothiing exact about these airstream door frames, that's for sure! but finally, i have all 4 outter pieces back together. i still need to rivet on the eyebrow, and put in the upper panel on the inside, but that's going to have to wait for a few days. it's freezing outside this morning!
Your progress looks great,Jordan. I have been following your posts, and am impressed! Freezing? What is it? Oh, yes, I remember - that nasty low temp condition that makes your fingers blue when trying to work around frozen metal..

Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
anyway, on to the pics. the top piece is on, but still needs to have the decor edge formed in. the door handle is lubed up, and works like new! (that will need to be replated later... i can't WAIT to see THAT bill!) the holes for the door in a door latches are drilled, and teh old latches (both broken) are temporarily holding the door nice and snug. replacements are enroute from VTS, in my seemingly weekly shipment...
I remember the weekly shipments from workin on my 63 Overlander. It will subside soon, after you pawn the cars, house, cat, and wife's bling...

Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
next up, reskinning the smaller door, and finishing the interior panels and gutter. then it's door seal time, and i'm done. i'm sorta torn on the door seal at this point. i have enough of the VintageTrailerSupply door seal to do both inner and outter, but in my test fit, the seal is so thick it makes it near impossible to close the door. has anyone else used this? does it settle down after a while? the seal was airtight, so that's a good thing! just don't want to strain every time i shut the door...

jp
I still have to re-skin my inner main door, and the inner vent door. I was considering a thin maple veneer overlay, but I am not sure of the longevity of such a plan.

I had similar trouble with door seals. What worked best for me, was the compartment and window seal for a ealry 70's Airstream, it is a double lipped profile. This is what I bought: http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/005s-gasket.jpg part number is 45295
It is the only material that would allow me to close the doors. I used it on both outer and inner door, and it is flexible enough to make a double seal after a while when it has settled some. One seal on teh door frame, one on the door jamb.
I can't say that it would fit your application as well as it did on mine, but it's not very expensive, so buing a few feet to try wouldn't break the bank.

Good Luck!
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:34 AM   #335
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JP, I have tried 3 diffetent types of seals. I had the same problem of the fit being to tight an putting strain on the door. I've seem Uwe's door seal and it worked great. I'm going do the same thing. Just waiting for warmer weather to start work again. Your trailer is looking great.
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Old 12-09-2006, 11:09 AM   #336
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if it's good enough for Uwe, it's more than good enough for me! i'll order some monday. the Vintage Trailer Supply stuff is so much thicker around the bottom. you CAN compress it, but it's hard work. i also like the idea of a double seal.

jp
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Old 12-09-2006, 11:11 AM   #337
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Originally Posted by uwe
I still have to re-skin my inner main door, and the inner vent door. I was considering a thin maple veneer overlay, but I am not sure of the longevity of such a plan....
i thought of that as well, but with the door literally exposed to the outside all the time, and the constant opening and closing, i thought the edges might start to lift.

my plan is to do the door in polished aluminum, and save the maple veneered 1/8" plywood for the interior (minus the polished endcaps). i think it will look great. hope it's not too much going on, though... 15 feet is a LOT smaller than you realize!

jp
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Old 12-12-2006, 05:49 AM   #338
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BACK to polishing...

it was 60+ yesterday! how could i NOT work on the silver pickle? i sanded and installed the second to the last piece on the rear endcap (interior), then started polishing it. i'm about 50% through with it. the front is pretty much done, though i'll probably do a touch up polish before i move on to the wood paneling, so i don't make a mess later.

i'm not sure about the best way to protect the polished surface long term. it won't be getting wet, so i don't think it will oxidize much, if any. i am planning on maybe waxing it after i get the touch up polish done, unless anyone else has any other suggestions?

pics of progress...
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Old 12-13-2006, 01:50 PM   #339
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Quote:
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i'm not sure about the best way to protect the polished surface long term. it won't be getting wet, so i don't think it will oxidize much, if any. i am planning on maybe waxing it after i get the touch up polish done, unless anyone else has any other suggestions?
I believe the best way to protect aluminum from tarnishing is to prevent it from being exposed to Mercury. HG is present in the atmosphere in the form of pollution. I don't think water will really tarnish the aluminum... but pollutants in the water will.

There are lots of clear coats out there, but they usually end up peeling when exposed to the weather. However, on the inside of a trailer, I think they would last much longer... hmm... I kind of want to leave my interior aluminum bare... it looks nice!
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Old 12-13-2006, 01:54 PM   #340
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Holy cow... I wonder if this stuff will take off zolatone?! It looks amazing: Environmentally Friendly Paint Stripper | Environmentally-Friendly Paint Remover | Environment Friendly Paint Removal | Paint Stripping | Removing

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