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06-24-2012, 01:21 PM
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#1001
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Finally found the perfect step, with going with a straight axle that raised the trailer about 3”, (and very happy that I did) plus having no step to begin with, found the perfect step. Can have both arms filled with stuff and have no problem getting up or down without using the grap handle, the step is rated for 800lbs.
Cover Valet Step. Cover Valet Hot Tub Step. Hot Tub Step. Spa Step. Spa Side Step.
toastie
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06-25-2012, 09:49 AM
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#1002
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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That's a very fancy step, sir! Where do you store it when not in use?
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06-25-2012, 04:13 PM
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#1003
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos
That's a very fancy step, sir! Where do you store it when not in use?
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Store them inside.....toastie
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06-25-2012, 04:24 PM
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#1004
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Ah touché. I guess that makes sense given how much taller yours is. Since mine is a lowrider and I am tall and long limbed, I only got a step for ease in campgrounds for others, but I still want to be able to get in without pulling it out every time. So I naturally and naively assumed you were doing the same and storing it.
I've gotten a heavy steel generic one for now, but I'm looking for ideas to make a custom one.
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06-26-2012, 08:31 AM
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#1005
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3 Rivet Member
1965 20' Globetrotter
1955 22' Safari
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 145
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That step is perfect on your Safari. Most RV steps are just a single platform that is too low after you put on a new Axle.That is an actual step! That second step platform gets you up higher. No more giant leap to get into the trailer. I think I'm gonna buy one because I have been looking for a solution also.
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08-04-2012, 04:56 PM
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#1006
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toastie
Almost done with the mock-up design stage, big change's will come to a end and will get more detailed. Designed the dinette cushions today, the brown tape represent the back cushions. The dinette will turn into a 54"x 72" bed. The back of the dinette will be a shoe rack for 10 pairs.
toastie
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Hi Toastie,
I know you're way past this & finished with your sweet trailer! I have a question about your design of the table/bed. Did you double up the 3/4" plywood on the seats so the table sits flush with the seats? That's what the picture looks like on this post that I quoted. It makes sense to me. I've looked at the David Winnick book & he has the table set on top of the benches, which would leave a 3/4" bump in the bed. I'm not sure if one would notice that under 4-5" of foam, but I'm wondering if that's what you did. Obviously, I'm working on my dinette! Thanks for all your great ideas!!!
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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08-05-2012, 05:20 PM
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#1007
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beckybillrae
Hi Toastie,
I know you're way past this & finished with your sweet trailer! I have a question about your design of the table/bed. Did you double up the 3/4" plywood on the seats so the table sits flush with the seats? That's what the picture looks like on this post that I quoted. It makes sense to me. I've looked at the David Winnick book & he has the table set on top of the benches, which would leave a 3/4" bump in the bed. I'm not sure if one would notice that under 4-5" of foam, but I'm wondering if that's what you did. Obviously, I'm working on my dinette! Thanks for all your great ideas!!!
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Thanks Becky
You can see that the bottom of table I added 1" x 3" for table top support and also to lock in the table in when making the bed, to keep it from sliding off. Then the back of the seat folds down to make everything flush, added 3/8” plywood behind the part that folds down..............hope this helps
toastie
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08-05-2012, 05:59 PM
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#1008
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
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Aaaahhhh! Makes perfect sense now! That's a great idea to fold down the back for a flush bed. I have the kind of table hardware for one that attaches to the wall & the leg flips up. But I'm sure it could work in basically the same way. Now a few more things for the brain to work out! Thanks again, Toastie!
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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08-28-2012, 11:32 AM
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#1009
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2 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 22
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The picture you have of your posting rig shows about 6" of loose cotton buffing wheels. What arbor adaptor did you use to achieve this. I have the arbor extension that you I'd in post 825 but it only allows for 2 spiral sewn wheels. Is there another one that allows more room for the loose wheels?
Thanks Toastie!
Sorry "polishing rig"
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08-28-2012, 02:13 PM
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#1010
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 854
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Same arbor, longer bolt allows more wheels.
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08-28-2012, 04:03 PM
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#1011
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zonacpa
The picture you have of your posting rig shows about 6" of loose cotton buffing wheels. What arbor adaptor did you use to achieve this. I have the arbor extension that you I'd in post 825 but it only allows for 2 spiral sewn wheels. Is there another one that allows more room for the loose wheels?
Thanks Toastie!
Sorry "polishing rig"
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Just went with a longer standard bolt from local hardware.
Toastie
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08-29-2012, 09:16 AM
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#1012
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3 Rivet Member
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 109
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Just put together some new wheel tubs I bought from Jegs high performance. The dimensions weren't perfect and after sleeping on it, I'm going to try to make some more adjustments so they WILL fit perfectly. The first one was a bit of a learning curve to put together but the second one went together fairly easily. They look great, now just to get the fit right.
It's easier to keep the curved shape while joining the two pieces with duct tape.
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08-29-2012, 06:22 PM
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#1013
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4 Rivet Member
1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton
, Utah
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 464
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Just to be forewarned, in my 55FC the outer wall where the wheel wells attach has a slight curve to it so be careful and compare them to your old wheel wells.
BTW you really should start your own build thread so the rest of us can follow it and offer unsolicited advice
tim
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08-30-2012, 08:49 AM
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#1014
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3 Rivet Member
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrunner
Just to be forewarned, in my 55FC the outer wall where the wheel wells attach has a slight curve to it so be careful and compare them to your old wheel wells.
BTW you really should start your own build thread so the rest of us can follow it and offer unsolicited advice
tim
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OK Tim, you're right. I could always use advice, even if it is unsolicited. This IS my first Airstream rodeo after all.
JT
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09-11-2012, 08:44 PM
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#1015
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3 Rivet Member
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 109
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Normally I would hide this big one hundred dollar and 3 day error but for you folks, I'll just swallow and look like a dumbass for eternity. When you have spent $125 for marine grade plywood and about 3 days in labor and curing time and about $20 in resin for waterproofing, measure 3 times, put an X on the scrap piece where the wheel well cutout goes before you cut and then, take a breath, step back, look real hard and then, ... Cut the right side of the plywood. OMG, what a setback.
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09-11-2012, 11:33 PM
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#1016
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2 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 22
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Hey Breadman. At least you remembered your tire wells. I reintroduced the frame and new subfloor to the shell with no tire wells. Now I've got to raise her back up and try it again. I guess everyone makes mistakes. ( except Toastie)
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09-12-2012, 08:46 AM
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#1017
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3 Rivet Member
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 109
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Hahaha! I feel better already. Thanks, wish we all could have Toastie looking over our shoulder. What a craftsman.
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09-20-2012, 06:30 PM
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#1018
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3 Rivet Member
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 109
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OK, I'm almost finished with securing the deck to the frame. Got some kick ass torx screws from ababa bolt co. Today that should do the trick. More photos tomorrow.
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10-21-2012, 09:21 AM
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#1019
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Winterized the trailer today, no antifreeze, with the removable interlocking members from both beds, was able to remove pump and fresh water tank, took about 5 minutes, can remove hot water tank but decided to leave.
toastie
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10-23-2012, 09:56 AM
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#1020
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3 Rivet Member
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 109
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Ok all you subfloor replacers, I'm most ready to install the belly skins. What are the things I need to do before I cover everything up? I know I'll need to put a fresh water drain in but is there anything else I need to consider that I can't put above the floor?
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