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Old 06-30-2008, 07:58 PM   #121
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Lookin' good, you really just do not mess around do you?

-Marcus
thanks Marcus, I'm 2 years away from being finished.............steve
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:33 AM   #122
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Set the door brackets and back supporting brackets today and did a trial fit on the door, not bad, but I will wait until the floor is in, then will tweak the door for the proper fit.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:34 PM   #123
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Finished setting the last window today, used plenty of Trempro 635 shown in below picture, cleaned the overflow with thinner. Just a few more hours and I will be 100% done with the windows.
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Old 07-18-2008, 05:55 PM   #124
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Wow

Quote:
Originally Posted by toastie View Post
Finished setting the last window today, used plenty of Trempro 635 shown in below picture, cleaned the overflow with thinner. Just a few more hours and I will be 100% done with the windows.

The windows look great. Are you buck riveting those back in or are you using Olympics?

I'm doing something similar to your project.... loads of time and patience.

So how many cuts have you gotten on your fingers?
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:08 PM   #125
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The windows look great. Are you buck riveting those back in or are you using Olympics?

I'm doing something similar to your project.... loads of time and patience.

So how many cuts have you gotten on your fingers?
For the windows I'm using olympic rivets with loads of trempro 635. I have gone thru about 5 tubes of the stuff so far attaching the running lights, door stops, door hinges, etc......Today I ran one of the wires to a wire brush down the finger nail about a 1/4 inch.
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Old 07-27-2008, 06:07 PM   #126
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before and after pictures

Here are a few before and after pic's, starting to work on the plans for the interior.
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Old 07-27-2008, 06:11 PM   #127
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Wow!!! What a difference you have made!

Now, can you come do mine?
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Old 07-27-2008, 09:03 PM   #128
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Wow!!! What a great looking job!!! The windows look super. I noticed you also did a lot of polish work as well. What did you use and how did you use it? We are trying "Truck Box Polish", looks better but not great. I think I may purchase some Nuvite and give it a try.

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Old 07-27-2008, 10:17 PM   #129
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Ok - congrats with your nes safari.I got a Ponitac 1960 safari and it has got some dazzling features on floor replacements.
1960 Pontiac Catalina 4 Door Sedan Carpet In Tuxedo
$207.95
Tell about cost and afcours hsare some pictures.
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:32 PM   #130
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Wow!!! What a great looking job!!! The windows look super. I noticed you also did a lot of polish work as well. What did you use and how did you use it? We are trying "Truck Box Polish", looks better but not great. I think I may purchase some Nuvite and give it a try.

63silver
Thanks very much, no polishing just compounding so far. I bought Truck Box Polish and what a waste of money. If you want professional results go to Home and follow them to the tee, you won't be sorry
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:39 PM   #131
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you are so right about the tool box polish. I just shines the surface and does not polish the surface. I learned the same sad lesson. Wait till you use the Nuvite A on the cyclo...
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:48 AM   #132
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When I get my floor up I have some tonge and grove 5/8 pine to put down. Guess it would need a sub floor huh????
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:28 PM   #133
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you are so right about the tool box polish. I just shines the surface and does not polish the surface. I learned the same sad lesson. Wait till you use the Nuvite A on the cyclo...
Our panel pro friend will be so disappointed to read this...



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Old 07-31-2008, 08:06 PM   #134
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When I get my floor up I have some tonge and grove 5/8 pine to put down. Guess it would need a sub floor huh????
Are you talking about taking up and replacing old flooring or are you talking about removing the existing sub floor too? If you remove the sub floor you will have to replace it before you put in your 5/8 pine.

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Old 08-02-2008, 09:40 AM   #135
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Prepping for a shell off

Prepping for a shell off. On the 1955 Safari it appears that they ran bolts thru the channel, wood floor, and each outriggers and little metal bracket at the ends. When the shell goes back on should have a good shell to frame alignment. (will use alignment pins)
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:54 PM   #136
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Braced evething up today and actual lifted it a couple of inches, it went up smooth. Removed the side windows to help reduce weight since I will be doing all the lifting.
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:03 PM   #137
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Are you talking about taking up and replacing old flooring or are you talking about removing the existing sub floor too? If you remove the sub floor you will have to replace it before you put in your 5/8 pine.

Malcolm
That was a dumb question for me to ask. Of course a sub floor is needed
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:32 PM   #138
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I have lift off

I have lift off, everything is level, squared and secured. Had to buy a Hi-Lift Jack, well worth the $64.00. Will tackle the outside support tomorrow.
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Old 08-07-2008, 01:28 PM   #139
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I have lift off, everything is level, squared and secured. Had to buy a Hi-Lift Jack, well worth the $64.00. Will tackle the outside support tomorrow.
That looks like it is working just great...

I think as an alternative that you can also use a small hyrdralic bottle jack on top of the frame if you don't have acess to the type that you used. What I did was to mount my cross pieces just high enough above the floor so I could fit a jack in below the cross brace to lift from the floor. In my case I really had to do that since I was doing a body on floor replacement and was not intending to take off all of the belly pan.

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Old 08-07-2008, 04:54 PM   #140
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That looks like it is working just great...

I think as an alternative that you can also use a small hyrdralic bottle jack on top of the frame if you don't have acess to the type that you used. What I did was to mount my cross pieces just high enough above the floor so I could fit a jack in below the cross brace to lift from the floor. In my case I really had to do that since I was doing a body on floor replacement and was not intending to take off all of the belly pan.

Malcolm
Thanks Malcolm, I was going to raise just high enough to put the floor down, but what the heck, if I can raise a few inches, I can raise 2 feet with a 48" jack, faster, plus working on the frame is much easier. The frame will be going in for a new axle, plan on using the existing left spring. For a complete axle 5000 or 5200 (?) will be about $750.00 complete, and that is for everthing.

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