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Old 06-24-2012, 01:21 PM   #1001
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Finally found the perfect step, with going with a straight axle that raised the trailer about 3”, (and very happy that I did) plus having no step to begin with, found the perfect step. Can have both arms filled with stuff and have no problem getting up or down without using the grap handle, the step is rated for 800lbs.

Cover Valet Step. Cover Valet Hot Tub Step. Hot Tub Step. Spa Step. Spa Side Step.


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Old 06-25-2012, 09:49 AM   #1002
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That's a very fancy step, sir! Where do you store it when not in use?
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:13 PM   #1003
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Originally Posted by worldinchaos View Post
That's a very fancy step, sir! Where do you store it when not in use?
Store them inside.....toastie
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:24 PM   #1004
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Ah touché. I guess that makes sense given how much taller yours is. Since mine is a lowrider and I am tall and long limbed, I only got a step for ease in campgrounds for others, but I still want to be able to get in without pulling it out every time. So I naturally and naively assumed you were doing the same and storing it.

I've gotten a heavy steel generic one for now, but I'm looking for ideas to make a custom one.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:31 AM   #1005
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That step is perfect on your Safari. Most RV steps are just a single platform that is too low after you put on a new Axle.That is an actual step! That second step platform gets you up higher. No more giant leap to get into the trailer. I think I'm gonna buy one because I have been looking for a solution also.
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:56 PM   #1006
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1964 17' Bambi II
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Almost done with the mock-up design stage, big change's will come to a end and will get more detailed. Designed the dinette cushions today, the brown tape represent the back cushions. The dinette will turn into a 54"x 72" bed. The back of the dinette will be a shoe rack for 10 pairs.

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Hi Toastie,

I know you're way past this & finished with your sweet trailer! I have a question about your design of the table/bed. Did you double up the 3/4" plywood on the seats so the table sits flush with the seats? That's what the picture looks like on this post that I quoted. It makes sense to me. I've looked at the David Winnick book & he has the table set on top of the benches, which would leave a 3/4" bump in the bed. I'm not sure if one would notice that under 4-5" of foam, but I'm wondering if that's what you did. Obviously, I'm working on my dinette! Thanks for all your great ideas!!!
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:20 PM   #1007
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Hi Toastie,

I know you're way past this & finished with your sweet trailer! I have a question about your design of the table/bed. Did you double up the 3/4" plywood on the seats so the table sits flush with the seats? That's what the picture looks like on this post that I quoted. It makes sense to me. I've looked at the David Winnick book & he has the table set on top of the benches, which would leave a 3/4" bump in the bed. I'm not sure if one would notice that under 4-5" of foam, but I'm wondering if that's what you did. Obviously, I'm working on my dinette! Thanks for all your great ideas!!!
Thanks Becky

You can see that the bottom of table I added 1" x 3" for table top support and also to lock in the table in when making the bed, to keep it from sliding off. Then the back of the seat folds down to make everything flush, added 3/8” plywood behind the part that folds down..............hope this helps

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Old 08-05-2012, 05:59 PM   #1008
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Aaaahhhh! Makes perfect sense now! That's a great idea to fold down the back for a flush bed. I have the kind of table hardware for one that attaches to the wall & the leg flips up. But I'm sure it could work in basically the same way. Now a few more things for the brain to work out! Thanks again, Toastie!
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:32 AM   #1009
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The picture you have of your posting rig shows about 6" of loose cotton buffing wheels. What arbor adaptor did you use to achieve this. I have the arbor extension that you I'd in post 825 but it only allows for 2 spiral sewn wheels. Is there another one that allows more room for the loose wheels?

Thanks Toastie!

Sorry "polishing rig"
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:13 PM   #1010
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Same arbor, longer bolt allows more wheels.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:03 PM   #1011
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Originally Posted by zonacpa View Post
The picture you have of your posting rig shows about 6" of loose cotton buffing wheels. What arbor adaptor did you use to achieve this. I have the arbor extension that you I'd in post 825 but it only allows for 2 spiral sewn wheels. Is there another one that allows more room for the loose wheels?

Thanks Toastie!

Sorry "polishing rig"
Just went with a longer standard bolt from local hardware.

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Old 08-29-2012, 09:16 AM   #1012
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Just put together some new wheel tubs I bought from Jegs high performance. The dimensions weren't perfect and after sleeping on it, I'm going to try to make some more adjustments so they WILL fit perfectly. The first one was a bit of a learning curve to put together but the second one went together fairly easily. They look great, now just to get the fit right.

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It's easier to keep the curved shape while joining the two pieces with duct tape.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #1013
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Just to be forewarned, in my 55FC the outer wall where the wheel wells attach has a slight curve to it so be careful and compare them to your old wheel wells.
BTW you really should start your own build thread so the rest of us can follow it and offer unsolicited advice
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:49 AM   #1014
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Just to be forewarned, in my 55FC the outer wall where the wheel wells attach has a slight curve to it so be careful and compare them to your old wheel wells.
BTW you really should start your own build thread so the rest of us can follow it and offer unsolicited advice
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OK Tim, you're right. I could always use advice, even if it is unsolicited. This IS my first Airstream rodeo after all.

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Old 09-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #1015
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Normally I would hide this big one hundred dollar and 3 day error but for you folks, I'll just swallow and look like a dumbass for eternity. When you have spent $125 for marine grade plywood and about 3 days in labor and curing time and about $20 in resin for waterproofing, measure 3 times, put an X on the scrap piece where the wheel well cutout goes before you cut and then, take a breath, step back, look real hard and then, ... Cut the right side of the plywood. OMG, what a setback.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:33 PM   #1016
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Hey Breadman. At least you remembered your tire wells. I reintroduced the frame and new subfloor to the shell with no tire wells. Now I've got to raise her back up and try it again. I guess everyone makes mistakes. ( except Toastie)
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:46 AM   #1017
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Hahaha! I feel better already. Thanks, wish we all could have Toastie looking over our shoulder. What a craftsman.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:30 PM   #1018
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OK, I'm almost finished with securing the deck to the frame. Got some kick ass torx screws from ababa bolt co. Today that should do the trick. More photos tomorrow.

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Old 10-21-2012, 09:21 AM   #1019
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Winterized the trailer today, no antifreeze, with the removable interlocking members from both beds, was able to remove pump and fresh water tank, took about 5 minutes, can remove hot water tank but decided to leave.

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Old 10-23-2012, 09:56 AM   #1020
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Ok all you subfloor replacers, I'm most ready to install the belly skins. What are the things I need to do before I cover everything up? I know I'll need to put a fresh water drain in but is there anything else I need to consider that I can't put above the floor?
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