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Old 12-22-2007, 08:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Don't give it to him, he needs to figure it out for himself.

Has the floor been replaced yet? Seems like a ton of work before you lay the floor. It sure looks spectacular though/
Highly recommend removing paint and compounding to leave the old floor. You will wreck the new floor with paint drippings and falling paint splatters from scraping, and a black residue from the compounding. Once the new floor is in, will cover the floor with paper, will compound with the cyclo using F7 with wraps, then polish, using nuvite S with cyclo wraps, messy but not as messy using a compound wheel. I Don't consider this work.
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Old 12-22-2007, 01:40 PM   #22
Restorations done right
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that makes total sense... all that shine takes the song to a new level..." mirrors on the ceiling, pink champagna on ice"
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:39 PM   #23
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Finished first compound cut and removed floor

Finished first compound cut and removed floor, will compound second time
after the new floor is in. Looking for a local welder for frame repair.
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Old 12-27-2007, 05:47 PM   #24
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A few more pic's u-channel and electrical

Notice how the u-channel was constructed on this 1955 Safari, electrical
will be upgraded...........
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Old 12-29-2007, 03:01 PM   #25
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Removed wheel wells today and also

Removed wheel wells today and also started removing the belly pan. The wheel wells will be re-fabricated, one will become a small bench in the bathroom/shower room. With belly pan and axle removed, and the shell raised, should have no problems installing the new floor.
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Old 12-29-2007, 04:26 PM   #26
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Toastie,
Looks great, you're moving fast. At this rate you'll come in under your two year window, but you're smart to plan for the long haul. Sometimes life does get in the way.
Keep at it, I'm impressed.
Dave
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Old 02-10-2008, 12:56 PM   #27
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To cold to work outside

To cold to work outside, so I removed some of the window's, and the door, and working on them in the basement. Had a good fine on e-bay picking up
2 Bargman lever with locks in one auction, will have a local locksmith make new keys. Parts will be sent out to be chromed, and hoping to end up with one complete set. Also planning and researching for when the weather breaks here.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:28 PM   #28
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Another lucky fine

Another lucky fine, brand new. Will take above door part shown above, plus these parts to the chromer next week...........
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:49 PM   #29
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door back together

Been working on the door down in the basement this winter and
starting to put it back together, very easy to compound when door is
disassembled. Have parts out to the chromer, hope to finish soon.............
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:57 PM   #30
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I think we are running parallel projects! I posted an update this week (starting at #168) on all our winter projects too. Looking at yours, I got confused and thought I was looking at my pictures - door, hardware, accessories, frame...except for the shiny interior!

Looks good!

Shari
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:40 AM   #31
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drip cap

Fabricated a new drip cap, took the old drip cap and flatted it out with a rubber mallet, traced it on to a piece of 2024-T3 aluminum. Using a metal brake, bent edge and the part that fasten to the trailer was done by hand.
Then very slowly form to shape using my leg.
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Old 03-30-2008, 05:45 PM   #32
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Getting ready to install my first completed window and a few of the new running lights...............
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Old 03-30-2008, 07:20 PM   #33
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Looking great Toastie!!
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Old 03-30-2008, 07:54 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drag'nwagon
Looking great Toastie!!
Thanks Dave, I see that your from Michigan and you also have a full restoration going. Are you planning on going to T.C.T rally in May...........
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Old 04-13-2008, 07:45 AM   #35
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Replacing back tail lights

Replacing the tail light back to Bargman No.9 Trim Rings, bought the trim rings from Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! with No. 6 lens also from vintage trailers. Found the housing from
Tractor Supply Company - Combination Stop/Tail/Turn Light which is a perfect fit.
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:31 PM   #36
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frame repair

My frame is in good shape except for one hole, took (2) 2"x2"x36" angle iron
and weld just under the hole, according to the expert's should be good to go. Removed the old short angle iron shown on the outside, and added new longer for additional support. Will be painting the frame with por-15 then will start the flooring. Decided to go with 5/8" AC plywood, with this restoration weight is a concern, plus the frame flexes very much and didn't want to make it to ridged. Also I plan no insulation under the floor, 3 of the cells will have tanks, black and 2 gray's, so there is no room for the insulation in those cells, and once water does get to the insulation could cause other problems.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:54 PM   #37
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POR 15 is a remarkable product

POR 15 is a remarkable product, its going to take about 1 gallon (using 1 quart cans) to complete the job and that is with 2 coats..............
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:35 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toastie
Thanks Dave, I see that your from Michigan and you also have a full restoration going. Are you planning on going to T.C.T rally in May...........
Actually Toastie we met once at the LPPI a couple years ago. My restoration project is going well and I will be pulling it home in the next couple weeks. My family and I will be at the TCT May rally, but with our 74. I look forward to talking with you particularly about electrical.
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Old 04-27-2008, 05:54 PM   #39
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marinco

Installed a Marinco 30 amp inlet today, part number 304EL-B, 30SSEL-B, to fasten, I used Olympic rivets, compressed the gasket perfectly.
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Old 04-27-2008, 07:13 PM   #40
Restorations done right
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I want to say I am beyond impressed....
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