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Old 05-28-2004, 06:46 PM   #61
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Chuck,

Then I have no idea. I just thought it co-incidental that mine measures 85+ inches inside the channel, very close to what yours measures outside.

Maybe your unit was on a low-carb diet?
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:26 PM   #62
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Yeah, but if the bellypans were arteries, then the low carb diet sure did clog up the arteries with dirt!

I did get a few sections of floor out today.

Check out the cute little outriggers in the front.
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:48 PM   #63
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By the way,

I think I'm going to use a grinder or something to cut off the floor bolts from underneath. It seems I have a C-channel frame....
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Old 05-29-2004, 06:29 AM   #64
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I was thinking of having the tongue and rear bumper sprayed with Line-X.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?

(Line-X is a sprayed-in bedliner, like Rhino, only better )

I know it'll be black, and I'll sandblast and POR-15 first....but what do you think?
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Old 05-29-2004, 07:06 AM   #65
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If you use POR-15 - thats all you need - just paint over it. You won't ever have a rust problem again. Personally, I dont' like the texture of bedliners on trailer frames.

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Old 05-29-2004, 10:55 AM   #66
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Yeah, I have pondered the texture idea.

I sort of wondered, though, if it would be so different than a tongue with 50 years of rust pitting that's been painted...

I'll see what it looks like after a sandblasting.

The nice thing about the Line-X is that it is TOUGH.
I will never, ever have to worry about scratching, scraping, nicking or otherwise damaging the finish.
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Old 05-29-2004, 05:47 PM   #67
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Just my personal opinion - I think the texture would look thick and even, whereas the rusting and pitting should go away when you sandblast it - will give it nicer finish - I just respray my tongue on the 75 every few years and it passes the 10 foot rule, so it looks great to me.

Don't let me discourage you if you like the look. It is tough stuff and I know it will last a long time. I have seen it used on the front of the trailer too as a rock guard.

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Old 05-29-2004, 08:01 PM   #68
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Tongue paint

Chuck,

POR-15 has lots of components that will recreate a like new surface. Go to their web site. They have surfacers and fillers that work well. Their specialty is making old, pitted, busted up parts look like new.

Of course, if you like the textured look of the truck liner stuff, that works too.

My neighbor has a new utility trailer with the frame done in truck liner. I personally think it looks ok on a work trailer, but don't know about an airstream. Personal choice I guess.
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Old 05-30-2004, 09:08 AM   #69
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Well, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
I DO like the textured, very black appearance of Line-X; I haven't yet decided if I'd like it on my Airstream.
I have a couple of POR-15's filler products; haven't tried them yet, though.

Ahh, yes. The frame is all visible!

I just need to take off a few 3 inch wide strips of floor from some crossmembers (three, I think)!!

Then I'll have a bare frame.

Do you all suggest using the old bolt holes for bolt replacement? Or new holes?

I haven't actually tried to take any elevator bolts out yet. The rusted bolts are "one" with the rusted frame. I expect to have to cut / gring the bolts off at the frame, then drill them out.

And....is the general consensus that the best idea is to weld a center steel strip longitudinally, and apply the plywood surface lengthwise, with a seam down the middle?
If so, are you joining them (like with biscvuits or something) or just bolting edges of both sheets down that center strip?

Thanks, all!
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Old 05-30-2004, 09:31 AM   #70
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Chuck
I think it's best to put the plywood back down the way it came.The trailer gets a lot of it's rigidity from the floor and it's also easier to install that way.If you are looking for elevator bolts I got mine at www.apachesales.com they were $5 for 100 and had a large 1" head which seems to work well at holding floor joints together.
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Old 05-30-2004, 09:41 AM   #71
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Chuck,
I think installing the plywood lengthwise makes more sense. Plywood has twice the bending strength lengthwise than it does across the width. Lengthwise (parallel to the frame) installation would make the chassis stiffer in the fore-aft direction.
I think using the elevator bolts, staggered, spaced every six inches on the new center strip would give you a very strong connection. I don't think biscuits would add a whole lot.

I believe Airstream laid the sheets crosswise for ease of assembly, not for strength.

Added thot: You could stagger the sheets from side to side, by installing the first sheet with the edge on the steet side and a narrower (40" wide) sheet on the curb side. Then the next pair, put the 48" width on the curbside and the narrow piece to the streetside. And the third pair is the same as the front. This requires moving moving the 'center strip' from side to side, but it avoids having any "four corner" joints, which a flooring installer will tell you is a boo-boo.

Also, if you can get 7-ply 'plyform' or similar plywood rated "Struc-1", the floor bending strength is twice what you would get from 5-ply sheathing.
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:56 AM   #72
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Don

Is 5/8" plyform or struc-1 easy to find at most lumber yards?

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Old 05-31-2004, 09:01 AM   #73
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Ken,

Not really. Some lumber yards have Struc-1 in OSB if you want to use that. I had to look around and finally e-mailed the manufacturer for a list of local yards. I went to a company in Minneapolis that stocks only plywood, for large contractors.

I guess I'm lucky to have time to look for stuff like this.

Here's some info on plywood. http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/X505-R.pdf
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Old 05-31-2004, 09:28 AM   #74
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Don

You are just an enyclopedia of information! I don't want to use OSB - I'll have to ask around here. Don't expect to find much here in the middle of nowhere, but you never know.

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Old 05-31-2004, 05:47 PM   #75
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Hmmmm.

I'll be shopping for ply tomorrow.
I'll let you know what I come up with around here....
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Old 06-03-2004, 07:20 PM   #76
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OK. I can get CDX ply for $22.99 a sheet.

Or AC with a mahoghany face for $43.20.

Or BC pine for $29.99.

Or AC pine for $32.99.

Or AB marine for $72.31 (but that's 3/4"...I haven't found 5/8" here...

Or I can get lots of OSB.....



Anyone? Anyone?
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Old 06-04-2004, 02:39 AM   #77
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Chuck
Looks like you'll be using CDX or BC Pine, where did you get the prices? Home Depot? If your like myself and a few other poverty stricken A/S owners you won't be using marine grade.
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Old 06-04-2004, 04:40 PM   #78
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I have yet to decide.
The AC is nice stuff...supposedly has superior glue, according to the lumber guy....

No, all prices were from lumberyards, except the best CDX deal, if I recall, was from Menards.

I may not worry so much - I plan to epoxy the edges and one face....

I think I'm going to go lengthwise for two sheets per side, then one across. Suggestions - do the one across in the front or the rear?
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Old 06-04-2004, 05:00 PM   #79
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Chuck,
I would defintely go at least BC, although AC is only $3/sht more. Try to get "Group 1" face ply. Group 1 is Doug fir, pine, and some other plies. They are stronger than group 2. Stay away from the Luan faced.

Running the two center sheets lengthwise and the end panels crosswise sounds like a good idea. Most of the bending stress is over the axles, and placing the center sheets with their highest strength perpendicular to the load is a good plan. On the other hand, I'm planning to run all the sheets parallel to the frame so that I don't have a joint located near the axle. I don't think it will make much difference though.
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Old 06-04-2004, 08:14 PM   #80
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5/8 void free. You are going to want at least one side to be smooth for your floor surface. You are also going to want to make sure that there are no spaces where you attach to the frame and outrigers.

Just my .02.....

That and when you change the floor thickness, you change how the belt line attaches and how the belly skin ataches. Many new holes to seal....
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