Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-28-2004, 06:46 PM   #61
Site Team

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,636
Images: 59
Chuck,

Then I have no idea. I just thought it co-incidental that mine measures 85+ inches inside the channel, very close to what yours measures outside.

Maybe your unit was on a low-carb diet?
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 08:26 PM   #62
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
Yeah, but if the bellypans were arteries, then the low carb diet sure did clog up the arteries with dirt!

I did get a few sections of floor out today.

Check out the cute little outriggers in the front.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	z.jpg
Views:	377
Size:	59.5 KB
ID:	6887   Click image for larger version

Name:	y.jpg
Views:	396
Size:	45.9 KB
ID:	6888  

funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 08:48 PM   #63
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
By the way,

I think I'm going to use a grinder or something to cut off the floor bolts from underneath. It seems I have a C-channel frame....
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 06:29 AM   #64
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
I was thinking of having the tongue and rear bumper sprayed with Line-X.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?

(Line-X is a sprayed-in bedliner, like Rhino, only better )

I know it'll be black, and I'll sandblast and POR-15 first....but what do you think?
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 07:06 AM   #65
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,450
Images: 14
If you use POR-15 - thats all you need - just paint over it. You won't ever have a rust problem again. Personally, I dont' like the texture of bedliners on trailer frames.

Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 10:55 AM   #66
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
Yeah, I have pondered the texture idea.

I sort of wondered, though, if it would be so different than a tongue with 50 years of rust pitting that's been painted...

I'll see what it looks like after a sandblasting.

The nice thing about the Line-X is that it is TOUGH.
I will never, ever have to worry about scratching, scraping, nicking or otherwise damaging the finish.
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 05:47 PM   #67
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,450
Images: 14
Just my personal opinion - I think the texture would look thick and even, whereas the rusting and pitting should go away when you sandblast it - will give it nicer finish - I just respray my tongue on the 75 every few years and it passes the 10 foot rule, so it looks great to me.

Don't let me discourage you if you like the look. It is tough stuff and I know it will last a long time. I have seen it used on the front of the trailer too as a rock guard.

Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 08:01 PM   #68
Site Team

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,636
Images: 59
Tongue paint

Chuck,

POR-15 has lots of components that will recreate a like new surface. Go to their web site. They have surfacers and fillers that work well. Their specialty is making old, pitted, busted up parts look like new.

Of course, if you like the textured look of the truck liner stuff, that works too.

My neighbor has a new utility trailer with the frame done in truck liner. I personally think it looks ok on a work trailer, but don't know about an airstream. Personal choice I guess.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2004, 09:08 AM   #69
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
Well, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
I DO like the textured, very black appearance of Line-X; I haven't yet decided if I'd like it on my Airstream.
I have a couple of POR-15's filler products; haven't tried them yet, though.

Ahh, yes. The frame is all visible!

I just need to take off a few 3 inch wide strips of floor from some crossmembers (three, I think)!!

Then I'll have a bare frame.

Do you all suggest using the old bolt holes for bolt replacement? Or new holes?

I haven't actually tried to take any elevator bolts out yet. The rusted bolts are "one" with the rusted frame. I expect to have to cut / gring the bolts off at the frame, then drill them out.

And....is the general consensus that the best idea is to weld a center steel strip longitudinally, and apply the plywood surface lengthwise, with a seam down the middle?
If so, are you joining them (like with biscvuits or something) or just bolting edges of both sheets down that center strip?

Thanks, all!
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2004, 09:31 AM   #70
4 Rivet Member
 
greg176's Avatar
 
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island , British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
Images: 1
Chuck
I think it's best to put the plywood back down the way it came.The trailer gets a lot of it's rigidity from the floor and it's also easier to install that way.If you are looking for elevator bolts I got mine at www.apachesales.com they were $5 for 100 and had a large 1" head which seems to work well at holding floor joints together.
greg176 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2004, 09:41 AM   #71
Site Team

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,636
Images: 59
Chuck,
I think installing the plywood lengthwise makes more sense. Plywood has twice the bending strength lengthwise than it does across the width. Lengthwise (parallel to the frame) installation would make the chassis stiffer in the fore-aft direction.
I think using the elevator bolts, staggered, spaced every six inches on the new center strip would give you a very strong connection. I don't think biscuits would add a whole lot.

I believe Airstream laid the sheets crosswise for ease of assembly, not for strength.

Added thot: You could stagger the sheets from side to side, by installing the first sheet with the edge on the steet side and a narrower (40" wide) sheet on the curb side. Then the next pair, put the 48" width on the curbside and the narrow piece to the streetside. And the third pair is the same as the front. This requires moving moving the 'center strip' from side to side, but it avoids having any "four corner" joints, which a flooring installer will tell you is a boo-boo.

Also, if you can get 7-ply 'plyform' or similar plywood rated "Struc-1", the floor bending strength is twice what you would get from 5-ply sheathing.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 07:56 AM   #72
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,450
Images: 14
Don

Is 5/8" plyform or struc-1 easy to find at most lumber yards?

Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 09:01 AM   #73
Site Team

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,636
Images: 59
Ken,

Not really. Some lumber yards have Struc-1 in OSB if you want to use that. I had to look around and finally e-mailed the manufacturer for a list of local yards. I went to a company in Minneapolis that stocks only plywood, for large contractors.

I guess I'm lucky to have time to look for stuff like this.

Here's some info on plywood. http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/X505-R.pdf
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 09:28 AM   #74
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,450
Images: 14
Don

You are just an enyclopedia of information! I don't want to use OSB - I'll have to ask around here. Don't expect to find much here in the middle of nowhere, but you never know.

Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 05:47 PM   #75
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
Hmmmm.

I'll be shopping for ply tomorrow.
I'll let you know what I come up with around here....
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 07:20 PM   #76
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
OK. I can get CDX ply for $22.99 a sheet.

Or AC with a mahoghany face for $43.20.

Or BC pine for $29.99.

Or AC pine for $32.99.

Or AB marine for $72.31 (but that's 3/4"...I haven't found 5/8" here...

Or I can get lots of OSB.....



Anyone? Anyone?
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2004, 02:39 AM   #77
3 Rivet Member
 
upallnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 163
Images: 15
Chuck
Looks like you'll be using CDX or BC Pine, where did you get the prices? Home Depot? If your like myself and a few other poverty stricken A/S owners you won't be using marine grade.
Leonard
__________________
Leonard

LotalaborAZ
upallnight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2004, 04:40 PM   #78
3 Rivet Member
 
funchucky1's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Images: 1
I have yet to decide.
The AC is nice stuff...supposedly has superior glue, according to the lumber guy....

No, all prices were from lumberyards, except the best CDX deal, if I recall, was from Menards.

I may not worry so much - I plan to epoxy the edges and one face....

I think I'm going to go lengthwise for two sheets per side, then one across. Suggestions - do the one across in the front or the rear?
funchucky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2004, 05:00 PM   #79
Site Team

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,636
Images: 59
Chuck,
I would defintely go at least BC, although AC is only $3/sht more. Try to get "Group 1" face ply. Group 1 is Doug fir, pine, and some other plies. They are stronger than group 2. Stay away from the Luan faced.

Running the two center sheets lengthwise and the end panels crosswise sounds like a good idea. Most of the bending stress is over the axles, and placing the center sheets with their highest strength perpendicular to the load is a good plan. On the other hand, I'm planning to run all the sheets parallel to the frame so that I don't have a joint located near the axle. I don't think it will make much difference though.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2004, 08:14 PM   #80
Rivet Master
 
till's Avatar
 
Lisle , Illinois
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,270
Images: 108
Blog Entries: 2
5/8 void free. You are going to want at least one side to be smooth for your floor surface. You are also going to want to make sure that there are no spaces where you attach to the frame and outrigers.

Just my .02.....

That and when you change the floor thickness, you change how the belt line attaches and how the belly skin ataches. Many new holes to seal....
__________________
Tedd Ill
AIR#3788 TAC IL-10
No trailers...
till is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
We're back from Colorado! KY Girl Our Community 4 08-06-2004 07:10 PM
There and Back Again:) maxandgeorgia Off Topic Forum 2 05-10-2004 09:43 PM
math wiz's: how steep a slope can I back up? Chuck Towing, Tow Vehicles & Hitches 12 05-05-2003 01:18 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.